Adams 02
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#260400
(In Topic #14219)
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Disappointed.
My Adams 02 arrived in record time today, but it's going back! No damage done in transit, but the cab roof is scratched, there's a nick in the back edge of the cab roof, the offside running plate is bent and one of the screws in the bunker which needs to come out to fit a speaker and stay alive is so tight that there's no way I can get it out.I hope Rails return method is as good as Hattons because I think the return postage should be paid for by them.
We'll see.
Cheers Pete.
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Terry
Last edit: by col.stephens
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Cheers Pete.
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It used to be easy, although hardly quick, returning stuff to UK from here in France but since that stupid B word, it's fraught with difficulties - and potential additional costs.
How long did it take to get to you ? Double that and you should have your replacement ………………… :roll:
'Petermac
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Terry
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Those who voted leave will be happy, those who voted remain will not but then that's what democracy is all about.
'Petermac
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I had a look at the rmweb thread and it's certainly a case of bent/warped running plates. Mine seems unique in it's other problems, although someone on there mentioned varying tightness of screws.
Peter,
Mine was here so quick it surprised me. I think it was 5 or 6 working days. Not bad for Sheffield to Oz.
Cheers Pete.
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Hope you get a replacement soon!
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Yes it was a disappointment, but that's life. it was here surprisingly quick. Hope the return and replacement are likewise.
Cheers Pete.
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My Adams 02 arrived in record time today, but it's going back! No damage done in transit, but the cab roof is scratched, there's a nick in the back edge of the cab roof, the offside running plate is bent and one of the screws in the bunker which needs to come out to fit a speaker and stay alive is so tight that there's no way I can get it out.
I hope Rails return method is as good as Hattons because I think the return postage should be paid for by them.
We'll see.
Peter,
That's disappointing, hopefully Rails will look after you. Besides all the physical issues did you get to run it at all?
I'm now worried as I have one en route. Having read about running issues and bent footplates I requested a check before dispatch so hopefully this may raise my odds of success a shade.It also gives some protection in event the check wasn't done properly.
Regarding the stuck screw, this seems to have been an issue of late with overzealous application of Loctite. One thought which sprung to mind was to chill the screw to cause it to contract. Cut of the head off a decent sized nail to give a flat surface. Drive headless nail into a cork and put in deep freezer. When fully cold apply to screw head, The chilling may be enough to crack the seal. BTW it works in reverse for stuck corks, warm the bottle neck under a hot tap and a previously stuck cork comes out easily - old trick! Then use for building the other tool!
Colin
Last edit: by Colin W
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I found a main PO that's open Saturdays so it's gone. Good point about cooling the screw. I used to keep Holden ball joints in the freezer because they were a tight interference fit in suspension arms.
I did give the wheels a spin on a 9 volt battery and it worked. That's all I can say though.
I've enclosed a note asking for the replacement to be checked including the tightness of those bunker screws.
I spotted a screw underneath the front coupling that looks as though it holds the body on, but I couldn't see any others. Maybe someone knows the procedure.
Cheers Pete.
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Sam of Sam's trains on Youtube, in his review of this model, said that he had difficulty in removing the body. In fact he didn't succeed as complete removal was obstructed by the various fittings on the outside of the model, which tends to confirm that the designers thought access to the inside was unnecessary.
Terry
Last edit: by col.stephens
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Colin
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I thought it strange that there was no mention of getting the body off. I remember my Dapol/Kernow Beattie well tank where I had to cut the brake rigging to get at the innards. It had a pickup that wasn't anywhere near the wheel on the pony truck. No way could I fix it with the body on and it needed all the help it could get. But I digress because this one seems to be the same.
If access to the inside is thought unnecessary they must be supremely confident of their motors. :)
I'll have another look at the YouChoos video.
Cheers Pete.
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PS not a video but step by step photos by Youchoos
Last edit: by Colin W
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Cheers Pete.
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From the instructions which I found on the Kernow siteThanks Colin,
I found a main PO that's open Saturdays so it's gone. Good point about cooling the screw. I used to keep Holden ball joints in the freezer because they were a tight interference fit in suspension arms.
I did give the wheels a spin on a 9 volt battery and it worked. That's all I can say though.
I've enclosed a note asking for the replacement to be checked including the tightness of those bunker screws.
I spotted a screw underneath the front coupling that looks as though it holds the body on, but I couldn't see any others. Maybe someone knows the procedure.
KMRC O2 Instructions
"BODY REMOVAL
The coal load is removable. Removing this (using a very thin flat screwdriver if required) reveals two screws. Undo these two screws and the cab roof will lift off, allowing access to the cab to insert loco crews or fitting of a speaker for DCC Sound. If you need to remove the rest of the body for any reason, gently lift the body from the coal bunker end to about 45 degrees and the smokebox end will release - BE CAREFUL NOT TO DAMAGE THE INTRICATE PIPEWORK IN THIS AREA - GREAT CARE IS NEEDED."
Interesting that the new instruction set under the EFE release don't include the corresponding info on this topic!
Mine arrived safely today and after an hour's running-in it appears to be a good smooth runner and it lacks any of the various physical failings you and others have reported. It has yet to pull any stock but hopefully my modest branchline cofiguration will not trouble it unduly.
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Cheers Pete.
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:doublethumbThanks Coln, that's a great help. Glad to hear yours is a goodun.
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I'm about to cut a nail and put it through a cork and into the freezer. Maybe I should get in there too. :twisted:
An edit to say neither the cold nail or a light spray of PCB cleaner (cold stuff) worked. But wait there's more. I've just noticed that it only has one con rod!
Enclosed with this replacement is a slip of paper which says "Tested, CM."
Last edit: by peterm
Cheers Pete.
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