Hi Ed thanks. I just double checked. The curve I already have is the r606. My mistake I thought it was the r604. 
It’s for the inglenook. So to clarify I’ll be using hornby r600/601 straights. Hornby r606 curves. Peco st240/241 points. Would this give me the correct design as seen in this image ( this is peco track design in the image)

Looks about right Gray, but as Nigel says it's easier and cheaper to use flexitrack.

Have you looked at any track planning software such as Anyrail or Scarm they might be better than the Hornby Track Builder (which I've never used).

I know you can use Anyrail for up to 50 pieces of track for free, and think Scarm is now the same.

Might give you more ideas.

AnyRail™ - Download the latest version of the easiest model railroad planner here.

SCARM - The leading design software for model railroad layouts



 
 

Ah, an inglenook. Nice to see Peco is offering a kit. Although with an inglenook plan using flex track and Peco's plan you could a) eliminate 4 sets of rail joiners, b) fit the sidings to the space available, c) learn some soldering skills.  If some of the track is angled at 45° or curved it will have more space. It's prudent to wire all track sections for power, and not depend on rail joiner continuity.

Looking at the original design, the top left-hand track needs to accommodate 1 locomotive and 3 wagons. Have a look at Inglenook Sidings Shunting Puzzle before you start laying track (if you haven't already done so). Peco's design uses a fiddle yard to accommodate the loco and wagons.

Plan ahead - you may want to add another module/fiddle yard extension.

I didn't realize that Hornby points have plastic frogs and are electrically dead.  I just had a look at some photos. Live and learn.

DC or DCC? If you are planning on DC first, and DCC after, it's more cost-effective to go with DCC, given the price of decent DC controllers and the cost/hassle of converting locomotives. What are you planning on using?

Following with interest.

Nigel

Thanks guys. It’s dc. I’ve not used any track planners because I’m just using my mobile phone. 
I’ve made a shunting yard in N gauge similar design. The insulfrog  points direct the power to the track where the point is switched. Therefore you can isolate sidings. Just using a shunter and small wheel base wagons. 
This is my n gauge yard in the image which some of you have seen before. 

This is the plan

It’s 8 feet long and 12 inches deep. 

I think I’ll go with this. I might have a play around with it tomorrow and see if I can do it any different. But this is the general idea. 

Tested the track. It’s all working as expected. I think this is what I’ll go with. 
I’ve got a baseboard ( 2 pieces of 48x12 contiboard) 

Just one question though if anyone can help, I’ve got a hornby shunter and some hornby flat wagons and they negotiate the points ok. 

But I bought some triang wagons and a mail coach cheap on eBay ( for the mail depot) the thing is they  seem not to go through the points and wheel aligners. I pushed them through by hand and the wheels seem tight through the frogs. 
Are triang compatible with hornby and Peco track, the wheels seem thicker and a bigger diameter. 

These are the hornby ones. They are fine. 

These are the triang they are tight through the points and derail. 

Hi Grey,

Check the gauge. They look way under. Triang and older Hornby are usually under-gauged. Relies on wide wheel treads to go through the frogs. The easy solution is to change the wheels for new ones. Or avoid Triang/old Hornby. There are reasons why the old stuff is cheap.

I did read somewhere that Hornby points are designed for Hornby stock. Modern, not the old.

Nigel

Hi thanks Nigel. The points are peco track. The hornby wagons are ok. And they are old. I think the triang are incompatible. I’ll get a few newer hornby. 

The couplings on the Triang wagons probably wont connect very well to more modern stuff either Gray.

As Nigel says, there are reasons why they are so cheap.
 

Ed said

The couplings on the Triang wagons probably wont connect very well to more modern stuff either Gray.

As Nigel says, there are reasons why they are so cheap.
 

From “Post #292,039”, 13th April 2025, 8:02 am

Thanks Ed. I’m not familiar with OO rolling stocK. I’ll ditch the triang unless I can change the wheels as They do fit my theme. Or I might go for something like these in the images. 
Can I ask if hornby are compatible with dapol and farish etc. and do older hornby wagons couple up with the newer models. 

Manufacturing tolerances and qualities have changed over the 60+ years since those Tri-ang or early Hornby wagons were produced.  They were designed to run on the coarse steel "Series 3" and slightly later "Super 4" track of the time not today's much more refined and accurate nickel-silver products.  And definitely not anything which might be fine scale such as Peco Code 75.  Even the cheaper Hornby track of today is matched to finer tolerances, precise back-to-back dimensions between the wheels and the use of finer point frogs which don't like old coarse wheels at all.  

If you cannot re-wheel them and the back-to-back check does not resolve the tightness through the frogs then those wagons might have a home as old ones dumped in a siding but never actually run.  

Similarly older coupler styles were intended for the standards of their day and seldom play nice with anything recent.  It can take some ingenuity to replace those old couplers otherwise keep those with the same style together rather than mixing them up.  

Thanks Rick. I have my eye on some others at the moment and I’ll maybe park the other three triang in a siding. 

https://youtube.com/shorts/WjRBlhbxI7U?si=q1pl2esAZZ0CN_5t

There are lots of issues with old stock. The size of the couplers, often part of the chassis. Oversized wheels. Chassis which are impervious to glues (Mainline). If you really want the body, for example a hard to find coal wagon, then bin the chassis and wheels and replace with a modern one (from another wagon or a kit). I recall Peco have chassis and wheels, no body. Just checked, they do. Old Triang's will often work OK with new wheels. And avoid old Lima wagons, they are usually HO scale, and a lot smaller than OO ones.

Old wagons are often difficult when it comes to replacing the hook/loop coupler with a modern, svelte one. Or an NEM one. Or a knuckle Kadee. Where possible go for modern wagons. Unless you like updating them. I do, but I am selective in what I buy. I've got a box full of 1960s vintage wagons that are impossible to update. I have a couple sitting on flat bed trucks on their way to the repair shop, plus a couple of flat beds with just the body serving as a container. Bodies were often used as crew facilities. The branch line to Fairford had a horse box body just off the turntable as the loco crew break room/office.

Nigel

Thanks Nigel. I have 2 triang horse boxes I can repurpose them by just using the bodies. 
I’ve purchased some newer wagons to go with my theme.