I’m in the process of gathering together all the bits I need for a OO gauge shunting layout. It will be about 7/8 feet long. 
I’ve got some R600 straight track, I’m a bit confused about which points to use. Do I use the R612 and R613 left and right points. Or do I use the R8072 and R8073 left and right points ?
What’s the difference? And are they both insulfrog. 

I think R612 and R613 are the older versions of the same points Gray, they've got that old style of lever to move the point blades.

I used to use Peco electrofrogs in OO, found they were better for connectivity between the loco wheels and the rails through the frogs.

 

Thanks Ed. I had a feeling they were the same thing. 
Just wanted confirmation, do you think they are insulfrog because that’s what I want to use. Thanks. 

Yeah.  All Hornby are insulfrog as far as I know

Thanks. 

If you were nearer, I have a load of used Peco insulfrogs just sitting in a box - swapped out for electrofrogs which are far more reliable.  I suspect postage would be close to the cost of new ones !!!

Hi Peter thanks for the offer but I expect postage and tax,import duty will be excessive. 
I decided to stick with insulfrog because I’ve used them on my N gauge layout to isolate the sidings without having to do any wiring and not had any issues. 

I’m going with something like this. I designed it in the hornby app.
Ps could I use peso points instead of hornby are they compatible. 

Should say peco points. 

Peco Setrack points are the same geometry as standard Hornby points, the Hornby 'express' points are bigger.

The Peco Streamline track points are a larger radius than the Setrack.

 

Thanks Ed. I’m looking at these at the moment. I’ll put a bid on later. I’ll go up to £20 on them. 

I actually need 3 left hand and 2 right hand. 

I found it's better to buy new.

I've got caught a couple of times buying track from that action site, that didn't quite meet expectations.

Buy new. It's usually a false investment if you buy used. Unless you like messing around with them. All Peco set track/streamline points have the same #frog, from memory close to a #6 #(5.4?). Difference is in the curve radii. Peco Code 83 is meant for the US market, but has different frog numbers rather than just small, medium, large. The another oddity is that the sleepers are too short for OO. Peco sold them as HO/OO. The other oddity is that the point blades are hollow pressed metal, not solid metal. Dirt traps.

Insulfrogs are black plastic. Electro- and unifrogs are metal. As far as I can see a unifrog is simply an unwired electrofrog that takes the polarity from the wheels. Usd Insulfrogs  will be worn.The frog can be replaced with a metal #6 frog. The spring in the switch also fails with age or may even be missing. If you buy used always check the state of the frog and the spring. Or get the seller to check and take some photos.

Keep in mind electrofogs are a powered route design. Worn points can short where the rails meet the frog, especially with older wheels that have a broad tread.

I think most of us take an electrofrog and wire it so that the polarity changes with changes in the points. Unless you run a 0-2-0 it's not necessary.

Last thing to watch out for is the distance from the closure rails to the frog. Old points are long, more chance of derailment with wheels that are slightly out of gauge. Avoid G-F points.

Nigel

Thanks for the advice. I did order a bit of track from eBay, I’ll have to see how it is. ( I got it just to have a play around with so I can assess just how much I need when I do the layout, I got a few straights and a couple of points. I already have some curves if I need them. )

One source of points that most modelers forget about is MarcWay. Kits, but easy to put together. I put together my first turnout using one of their kits - an EM gauge curved one. Only 2 tools required - a decent file and some drawing pins. I've still got the "gauge" piece of aluminum and the printed paper template somewhere. They do flex track as well. Having built one it gave me a much better idea of how they were supposed to work.

Nigel

Hi thanks for the replies. I’ve got enough r600 and r601 hornby straights. I will buy the points new, I’m going to use the peco st240 and st241 right and left hand turnouts instead of the hornby r8073 and r8072 turnouts would this be correct. 
Also am I correct in using the r604 curve to bring the tracks parallel. I’ve attached a diagram I made in the hornby track plan for reference. Thanks. 

You have 2 604R with different lengths. Is that right?

A section of track that runs parallel to the exit track is usually a reverse curve, not a curve. Is 604R a regular curve or a reverse curve? Atlas over here sell a turnout exit reverse curve set-track. I don't see one on the Hornby website.

If you used flex track instead of R604 and R601 you would a) eliminate one set of rail joints, b) be able to smooth out the curvatures with more workable radii, and c) save some money.  

R604 has a first radius curve, that makes a severe S curve for locomotives and stock to traverse. You may have buffer lock with long stock, need longer couplers with short stock (buffer lock again), and longer wheelbase steam locomotives may have issues, especially with ponies or bogies fouling pistons. It might be worthwhile checking what you intend to run and what, if any, are the limitations on track radii. The radius on R604 is 14.6", that's tight. R8072/3 turnouts are second radius curves, 17.24" radius. That's also tight. And there would not be a transition between the 2 radii. You might be better off with an express point that has a gentler exit curve and a straight exit road that you can extend before curving to run parallel. It takes a bit more space but running will be much better.

My knowledge of Hornby's track is almost zero. as I have never used it. The website has plenty of details though. Tight radii S curves may be OK for toy train setups, but they're not usually good for a model railway unless it's narrow gauge or N-scale.

I moved to Templot many years ago rather than use software specifically designed for one brand of track. Very useful for making sure that things will work.

Nigel

Hi. I’ll only be running a shunter and short wheel base wagons. The r604 are the same length one looks a bit shorter in the image. 
I think they are first radius, I think some of the other chaps on here will be familiar with hornby track. I just wanted confirmation before I ordered the curves, but saying that I do have 2 already but I don’t have the points yet. I can test my r604 curves when I get some points. 

If you really want to stick with Hornby track, try R606 2nd radius curves (438mm) which is the same radius as the points.