The art of compromise.
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Finally gettiing out of my system.
Wash your mouth out - both of you !! :It's a no noHave you never heard of the LNER ? :Happy
'Petermac
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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'Petermac
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Hi Petermac Thank you for your reply. I am perfectly clear of mind , when I see my name I know it that is meant for me. Likewise someone else’s name. Best wishes KevinIf you go back a post Kevin, all will become clear. :thumbs
Staying on the thread Kevin.
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https://shop.simplysouthern.co.uk/index.php?route=common/home
A basic Dapol wagon especially produced for Simply Southern in this attractive slightly weathered livery, shown here without the customary drooping Dapol couplings.
I bought one with the view that I might try to make it look more realistic and if it didn't work out, well it wasn't the end of the world at that price.
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111104_330000000.jpg)
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111106_590000000.jpg)
Whilst the interior was drying I decided to make a new coal load. Three pieces of 2mm thick greyboard were glued together thus…
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111108_200000000.jpg)
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111109_450000000.jpg)
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111110_540000000.jpg)
Meanwhile attention was turned to the chassis. The couplings were simply screwed on to two moulded spigots on the underside of the chassis. They were removed and the spigots were cut off. At each end of the underside of the chassis I glued on a Parkside Coupling Mounting Block for Bachmann couplings (now sold by Peco ref. PA34). I attached some short straight Bachmann couplings to replace the original Dapol type.
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111112_120000000.jpg)
The height of the bar was checked against my coupling height gauge which was shown way back in this thread…
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111114_460000000.jpg)
The coal load was now glued inside the wagon body. The metal weight was positioned on top of the chassis and the body attached with Revell Contacta glue. I removed the wheelsets and painted the wheel rims with matt black enamel paint. The wheels were fixed back in position and the chassis and lower body were given a light spray of Humbrol Dark Brown from a rattle can to add a bit of weathering.
Ready to take its place in the coal siding…
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111116_220000000.jpg)
Terry
Last edit: by col.stephens
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Did you consider making the load removable so that the wagon can leave empty whilst showing off that lovely coloured interior?
Barry
Shed dweller, Softie Southerner and Meglomaniac
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Terry
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The Dapol wagons with the hole in the floor has been their way for some years. I have some very old Dapol RTR wagons and some of their latest offerings with the same hole. I have resorted to a bit of filler for empties.
I guess the "load" question is whether the lack of interior detail when empty is better or worse than having a loaded coal wagon leave a branch line terminus. :hmm
I can't say that one or the other is better - it's individual taste. I am lucky to have the terminus represented by a traverser so I can just switch loaded and open wagons! Such a luxury allows me to sit firmly on the fence
![:lol:](https://yourmodelrailway.net//themes/default/images_custom/lol.gif)
Either way, the little "Bognor Coal and Transport" open is a beauty!
Barry
Shed dweller, Softie Southerner and Meglomaniac
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Step forward my, as yet, unpatented coupling soldering jig, lovingly handcrafted in the UK, although because of costs I am considering moving production to China!
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111642_160000000.jpg)
This has been exclusively designed for use with Bachmann couplings. Note the hole on the right.
The dropper/hook is placed in the jig and a small area is filed to remove the paint revealing the brass beneath…
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111656_390000000.jpg)
A staple is straightened and then, using long-nosed pliers, a small ring is formed at one end…
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111700_060000000.jpg)
As an aside, here is my supply of staples. UK Nationals may feel somewhat nostalgic!
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111701_540000000.jpg)
The staple is now placed in position across the revealed brass with the ring facing downwards in the hole…
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111704_040000000.jpg)
I dab on a brush load of liquid flux, hold the staple in place with something and apply the solder and iron.
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111707_540000000.jpg)
The jig is turned over and tapped on the workbench to release the coupling. The protruding part of the staple under the hook is snipped off and the jobbed lightly filed to clean it up.
A slight upward bend is made in the staple about midway between the dropper and the end ring.
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111722_540000000.jpg)
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111723_450000000.jpg)
Couplings fitted in place on a wagon awaiting a dab of black paint…
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_111725_360000000.jpg)
Thanks for looking.
Terry
Last edit: by col.stephens
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Michael
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![:lol:](https://yourmodelrailway.net//themes/default/images_custom/lol.gif)
Terry
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p.s. I hear that quality control issues may provide a persuasive arguement for keeping your production out of China and on your own desk
![:lol:](https://yourmodelrailway.net//themes/default/images_custom/lol.gif)
![:lol:](https://yourmodelrailway.net//themes/default/images_custom/lol.gif)
Last edit: by Barry Miltenburg
Shed dweller, Softie Southerner and Meglomaniac
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![Sol is in the usergroup ‘Super-moderators’ Sol is in the usergroup ‘Super-moderators’](https://yourmodelrailway.net//themes/default/images/cns_rank_images/mod.png)
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
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Last edit: by Passed Driver
Staying on the thread Kevin.
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![:lol:](https://yourmodelrailway.net//themes/default/images_custom/lol.gif)
'Petermac
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![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_121501_220000000.jpg)
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_121502_260000000.jpg)
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/711/711_121503_060000000.jpg)
May I also add that it is important to use a Bachmann coupling as the hook/dropper is made from brass and cannot be attracted to the magnet leaving only the staple to be pulled downwards. Hornby and Dapol coupling hooks/droppers are not made from brass and are unsuitable as they are attracted to the magnet which means that the couplings will not lift when required to do so.
Regards,
Terry
Last edit: by col.stephens
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Kevin, it is important to ensure that the hooks are firmly clipped in place so that the hook lifts and drops without falling off. I have never had a problem with Bachmann couplings. However, I have found that staples glued to the droppers can easily fall off which is why I have resorted to soldering them in place.
Regards,
Terry
Last edit: by col.stephens
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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It certainly seems an ideal alternative to Kadees which, whilst I do like them, aren't particularly unforgiving, especially if you get the height slightly off. They can also be quite awkward to fit to older stock.
'Petermac
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