An awning shall be done Marty.

Bit stuck for doors though, perhaps just leave them off.

Thanks for the tip Doug  :thumbs

I'll go and have a search in the bathroom cabinet, but I've got a feeling we've only got the 'orrible modern ones now.



Ed

Progress to date.

I've been building up a roadbed using scatter, which has taken ages, as I have had to keep waiting for the PVA to dry before adding each layer.

Not a very good picture.



I now understand why people use air drying clay, filler or card etc. initially. Valuable lesson learned  :oops:

Definitely going to try the air drying clay on the other end where the goods shed is going.

View the other way and about half the ground cover is done. Still needs bushes, grass, weeds and associated 'junk'




Overall view of where I'm at.

 

I'm just over budget, but don't expect to have to buy anything else.


That's about it, probably won't do any more on this until the winter.

Now it's back to Latton Fields, Catenary, and I think I was doing some road and pavement.


Ed

Verra narse, Ed.   :cool:

Thanks Max.

Think this has turned into more of a practice scenery plank rather than a puzzle, but if I don't like anything I can rip it apart and do it again.

A lot cheaper than doing the same thing in large areas on a bigger layout.


Ed

Hi Ed.   I have been reading about "Rare Earth magnets",working really well? and the authors don't have any problemsI .But my magnets attracted the Kadee too well. Now I have discovered another fault. If one follows the guide lines? Of three, three and five wagons sidings? And uses kadee magnets , then the sidings are too short. Reason being one cannot couple the wagons and remove them  because they become uncoupled where there isn't enouh room.   Any comments?  Kevin

It is not the magnets attracting the Kadees that is the problem but metal wheels & axles and as UK models are lighter than NMRA  recommendations

I am reasonably sure that most USA outline models use non-magnetic metal for axles & wheels


Placement of magnets is usually done after some shunting to see where wagons are to be uncoupled, do the Kadee dance & then pushed into location.  Short wheel based wagons can give more problems than the longer 40ft plus USA rolling stock.

Hi Ron.  Thank you for your reply.. I laid the three sidings to take either Bachmann or Dapol wagons, two sidings at three wagons and one siding at five wagons and an 08 Shunter. And it was only then that I realised that the shorter sidings didn't have "Room for Manoeuvre " .the important point that I didn't mention was , the rare earth magnets "Clung on to them" a fatal attraction? And the Kadee magnets take up a lot of room. Where if I had read the footnote?
If using a permanent Uncoupling device such as a magnet for "magnetic couplers" requires some additional special attention. I will read the guidelines that you have provided . But my question is " if I make the sidings longer, do I then use a longer baseboard or sharper curved polnts???    All the best. Kevin

Hi Ron.   Having read the chart you referred me to I realise that UK wagons may not be heavy enough.The "Lump of metal the Chinese place into a Bachmann wagon is approximately 20g". The heaviest in my collection is a "Queen Mary Brakevan" weighing in at 5oz or (146g) . Which would mean dismantling the covered vans, adding weight, and reasembing them, as for the coal wagons they would have to be loaded all the time( meaning no more empty coal wagons , but where does that leave the tankers?? And after all that effort , I cannot see how it will cure the Neodymium magnet issue of clinging onto the hook or whatever it is called.
The point about the "Nom ferrous wheels and axles"?? I did investigate at some of the shows I attended, and I am still considering my options , that said when I shunted  a non Kadee fitted wagon over a magnet it didn't have any effect on the wagon wheels. The only way out seems to be removing thr buffer stops completely or replacing them with a non standard Buffer stop or the awful short radius points. Pleaee advise. All the best. Kevin

Kevin, can you do a plan showing the 3 sidings & their lengths to some scale and post it here and indicate where  you placed the uncoupling magnets?

From the Kadee website https://kadee.com/animation/c1.htm


Magnet A at the bottom for example is for 4 sidings

My puzzle only requires one particular wagon to be spotted on a particular siding Kevin, so I haven't had any similar problems.

I've only just started playing with Kadees and Sol along with lots of others know far more about them than me.

Don't think curved points will help you as they tend to be quite long.

I can only suggest use less wagons in each of the sidings, or uncouple manually.


Ed

Hi Ed.  Thank you for your reply. What I meant was those "Straight Points with a very sharp turn" = short as in Peco parlance, The ones more likely to cause derailments. Rather than the long radius points that I have chosen.All the best. Kevin

The best space saving point I've found is the code 100 small Y point - electrofrog SL-E97, but it all depends on the track geometry whether you can get it to fit.

(SL-E197 is the more expensive code 75 version)


Ed

Hi Ed.  Thank you again. I have got some of them( I only use code75) .On my other plank and they are better for tight spaces. I don't know if you have travelled on the " Docklands Light Railway"? But they must have used come short radius points.  All the best. Kevin

I have your e-mail Kevin  and I cannot see where you have put the magnets but you don't need 3 sets - one set in each track , just one set to the right of the first turnout. Attached is a simple spreadsheet showing location of uncoupling magnet
With Kadee, one does not uncouple and leave it there in that spot because the hook will always stay open and re-coupling will not happen until the van is pushed further along, loco backed off to allow the couple to return to normal.


Short radius points are perfect for yards as running thru them is slow anyway.

 Wagon weights - I use lead sheet and for opens, they are scribed like planks and yes for vans; I pull them apart, add the weight and re-assemble. Tankers - drill a 3mm hole, fill up with sand, then plug the hole - not a 5 minute job but who is in a hurry? Another website has 0.55gm/mm making a standard UK van of 75mm to weigh in at 41gmm


Sorry Ed, now back to your thread.

Hi Ron. Thank you for your reply. I haven't put the magnets in yet, as I thought they were to be on each siding.Is it okay to put just one magnet on the apptroach line then??? I purchased some car balance weights for some of my stock. The other problem with Bachmann stock is the " drooping.NEM pockets , I never gave a thought to Sand.
All the best. Kevin

[user=1801]Passed Driver[/user] wrote:

Hi Ron. Thank you for your reply. I haven't put the magnets in yet, as I thought they were to be on each siding.Is it okay to put just one magnet on the apptroach line then??? YES - didn't you read the Kadee website  I purchased some car balance weights for some of my stock. The other problem with Bachmann stock is the " drooping.NEM pockets  Yes Kadee NEM couplers may droop in the NEM pockets so one has to use slivers of styrene underneath in the pocket to hold the coupler up, I never gave a thought to Sand.
All the best. Kevin

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=8591&forum_id=156

Hi. Ron. Thank you again. I always get into trouble by "Scanning something , an not reading it through", could do better. You have a good idea about when Kadees are fitted the buffers are not required on voyage. I will "proceed with caution" . All the best. Kevin

Hi Ed.  I was considering "Keyboard Legs" for either of my planks, but, being as it isn't going anywhere unless I am doing the ironing? The ironing board seems a logical set of legs.   All the best. Kevin

How about doing away with the magnets and just using the wooden skewer method of uncoupling?

Hi thank you for your reply. But I prefer the magic of "Hands Free". All the best.