First Shelf layout - OO gauge
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A shelf layout to fit in the closet
Hey everyone,Im currently working on ballasting the layout, and I have most of the ballast down.
I’ve applied watered down glue and dish soap to it twice now, but the ballast is still very delicate. It’s been 24 hours, the ballast is staying in place, unless it gets touched. Kind of similar to wet sand. So, not ideal.
Any ideas why this would happen? I don’t remember this happening other times I’ve ballasted. I’m using Elmer’s school glue.
Any tips appreciated
- Darius
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I have an idea that the dilution rate depends on the original strength of the glue - start with a low-bond PVA, dilute it say 50/50 and you end up with a glue that takes forever to set.
As you've done plenty of ballasting in the past, I'm guessing you soaked everything well and you said you used a tension breaker so I can only think your mix is too weak. "School Glue" sounds as if it's meant for kids so will be easily washable before it sets and won't bond particularly strongly even when dry.
Also, what's your weather like ? If it's cold and damp, it will take longer to set. Even in 'normal' summer conditions, I find it takes a minimum of 24 hours before it's properly set.
Can you try a small test piece on a bit of board somewhere using less water to make a stronger mix and see how that behaves ………….?
My guess is you've over diluted it …………………………..
'Petermac
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Yeah I used water and dish shop before hand to break the tension as well, thankfullly I have about 10 different types of glue so I redid it again this evening with wood glue instead of the school glue. I probably have used white glue in the past but not specifically school glue. I didn’t think about there being any difference. The school glue is labeled as washable so I assume that the water is making it almost pointless.
We’ll see how the wood glue works!
- Darius
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D_Will said
Thanks for the advice Peter, I’ve been diluting it about 50-50, just barely enough water to lower the surface tension.
Yeah I used water and dish shop before hand to break the tension as well, thankfullly I have about 10 different types of glue so I redid it again this evening with wood glue instead of the school glue. I probably have used white glue in the past but not specifically school glue. I didn’t think about there being any difference. The school glue is labeled as washable so I assume that the water is making it almost pointless.
We’ll see how the wood glue works!
From “Post #293,048”, 14th January 2026, 3:37 pm
I have used diluted wood glue (PVA) with a drop or two of dishwashing detergent for the gravel roads and platforms. It takes almost a day to dry up.
Cheers,
Claus
Cheers,
Claus
www.flickr.com/photos/ellef/
Claus
www.flickr.com/photos/ellef/
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I agree with Peter, if it's cold damp weather it's going to take longer to dry whatever glue you've used.
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Appreciate the wealth of knowledge you all have and share.
Darius
- Darius
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Installed my caboose industries point throws rather than wire in tube, and thought I’d show off my Christmas and birthday gifts - Hornby j52 and a terrier. Purchased through the BRMNA from a former exhibition layout.
I’m enjoying both of them, and they run quite well, I was just suprised at how small the terrier is!
- Darius
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After 8 years of being “in repair” I finally finished fixing the Caledonian single. Still not the best runner but I think it’s good enough!
In other news, I’m working on a level crossing with inset wood and I nicked the top of the rail with a blade 🫣. Hopefully that doesn’t cause problems later! I’ll do some testing tonight and find out. I say testing - not playing, because that might be considered simple childish nonsense 🙄.
- Darius
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Cheers,
Claus
Cheers,
Claus
www.flickr.com/photos/ellef/
Claus
www.flickr.com/photos/ellef/
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Yep, I've got two of them and they are tiny. It was interesting getting a sound decoder, speaker and stay alive caps in them.
Cheers Pete.
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peterm said
"I was just suprised at how small the terrier is! "
Yep, I've got two of them and they are tiny. It was interesting getting a sound decoder, speaker and stay alive caps in them.
From “Post #293,071”, 21st January 2026, 10:26 am
Where do you put the decoder, speaker and stay alive? Front or back?
Cheers,
Claus
www.flickr.com/photos/ellef/
Claus
www.flickr.com/photos/ellef/
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