Styrene and solvent

Hi All.   I have actually used Styrene solvent before. And sometimes the brushes get stiff, and I have to bin them. But according to the bloke in the shop I can wash the brushes in cold water? This I have done, but little brushes still become unusable . Can anyone please help??  Best wishes. Kevin

If they go hard just dip them back in the solvent, and make sure you wash them thoroughly using soapy water.

The hardness is actually melted styrene drying on the brush, dipping back in the solvent dissolves it again.

Hi Andy.   Thank you for your reply. The way I did it was in a screw top bottle with fresh water, and shake the brush / water .   Best of luck.  Kevin

Hi Kevin,

Pure solvents, unless they attack the bristles of the brush, will just evaporate. As said, if they go hard, it's cement and probably contains styrene.

It's always useful to do a small test in a hidden area to make sure the glue works. Cut a small piece of thin styrene sheet or square rod (5mm square or so), and see if it attaches to the frame. If it doesn't budge after a week (to allow the solvent to evaporate and the styrene to get hard) you should be OK. Be brutal - if it detaches with tweezers it hasn't worked. It helps to key both surfaces with #400 paper.

A lot of Hornby/Bachman/Mainline/Airfix/Dapol/GF/Peco plastics, especially those used for bogie frames and wagon chassis', which are often some sort of nylon or acetal, don't take solvent-based adhesives very well. That's why the body is attached with clips or screws. Adding KD couplers to these often needs brass bar and screws. Hence my comment re brass plates and screws.

Best to test.

Nigel

Hi Nigel. Thank you for your reply. The solvent question relates to thr “New Bodywork “ which will be made of styrene.The chassis coupling/ hole question is something else?  I may offer up the wagon floor to the chassis, mark out each hole, shape and stick ? an offcut in place, then screw the coupler on. Best wishes. Kevin