Hi Jeff.   An off topic question , and off railway, in my search for an 0-4-0 T industrial Loco, I have strayed. I came across this Hornby GWR number R2304, loco No 101. Unfortunately I don't know anything about it , eBay didn't give that info, it could be ancient? Definitely not DCC ready. And this providing that I can find space for a Decoder , whichever one? Would be my first "Hard Wiring job" which is another reason for the purchase, a test.Please advise, all the best.  Kevin

Definitely not DCC ready. There may be a small amount of space for a decoder - I'm not sure with that particular model as I don't own one. Hornby did many different livery versions of the same model, though.

It should be a straightforward DCC hard-wire job, with the only proviso being where can you fit the decoder physically. Choose a small decoder; TCS M1 is good but may cost more than the locomotive is worth, otherwise, perhaps one of the Hattons mini decoders might do. It may be possible to hide the decoder in the bunker and run the wires across the bottom of the cab so they remain hidden.

The TCS M1 in one of Hornby's Peckett saddle tank 0-4-0 locos, which are even smaller than the locomotive you have bought.

Hi Jeff  thank you for your reply. You will receive more evidence of my recklessness . eBay purchase Six Pugs, Decoder would be more than the price I paid for two of the six Pugs, DC here we come???Or figure out how to incorporate an isolated DC yard within a DCC layout, Maybe follow the GWR idea?
Isambard Kingdom Brunel built a " Transhipment Yard" between Broad Gauge and Standard Gauge. That would have been a tight PITA to work. But two Standard Gauge lines with an independent DC line may work? Theres me full of ideas that never go further than ideas? Number 1 job buy a Man Cave with a house attached. Kevin

I can switch the entire lower level to DC or DCC, using a rotary multi-pole switch. However, the wiring for that is complicated, so not for the faint hearted. It also includes isolating sections so that trains can remain on the layout even when I want to run a DC analogue item. You have to make sure that the DC and DCC never meet. Ever!

My upper level will be simpler, for DCC only.

Hi Jeff.  Thank you for your reply. But, it seems that I have " Dopped Myself Right in it From a Great Heighr", I was really reckless with my latest eBay purchase . I think that unless I am very careful the situation could get worse.As for Hornby? I had better stay with Bachmann  in the future. Nothing wrong with new Hornby, but secondhand it has probably been round the block a few times. I have been told that "They were never meant to run on a DCC " and 
"Have the Wrong Gearing" or "They are Alright for Whizzing around the Track".   All the best.   Kevin

Hi Jeff.  This "Outfit Phohobucket"  what sort of business are they? Worth the bother. Straight , Honest.And are they Reliable for posting photos to other people.  All the best. Kevin

Generally OK; they do have the occasional temporary outages, but If you only use the free version, you can't really complain.

There are other photo hosting services, but in my experience, all have their good and bad points, and all are subject to the occasional temporary failures.
Being a member of several forums (as are you), it gives us a central repository for our photos, rather than uploading them separately to each forum in turn. That then also cuts down the total size of your uploads through the Internet Service Provider.

Hi Jeff. Thank you , but now I know how to load my photos onto YMRC it is so easy. But, it appears to be the only forum with direct photo access.  Kevin

Hi Jeff.  eBay have a BR Pug body advertised for£13.99 would that be worth buying to " Tart Up" a Pug that don't fit in with my plans?    All the best. Kevin

The question is: will the new body suit what you want without any modifications, or would it be just as instructive to repaint / modify an existing one (and cheaper, to boot)?

Hi Jeff.   It was just an idea?  On the subject of stay alive, I was only going by the recommendation of the bloke in Model Rail. I agree with you as I have run the locos of my track and pointwork without faltering.          All the  best.    Kevin

Something a little different has been on my workbench for the last few weeks, and it's not even for me. My friend, DougN, has contributed a lot to my layout (including all of the initial carpentry), so as a small project for his birthday, I made and painted a John Day white metal LNER Bedford parcels lorry. The type dates from around 1931 to 1935, so fits right in with the period on his layout.

It caused me a few headaches in the final finishing, because the initial coat of satin varnish dried high gloss, then a following coat of matt varnish dried even more glossy (if that was possible!). A coat of Testor's Dull Cote reacted with the previous paints so had to be scraped off again. Some weathering powders eventually took the shine off (literally) and gave it a well-used look.

I took a couple of posed shots on my layout first, and a final one in its new home, complete with number plates fitted.

That's a little cracker, Jeff.   :thumbs

Hi Jeff , Very good indeed, I settled for come Oxford Diecast lorries to fit in with my(when I get it finished?)puzzle plank. One thing I couldn't get hold of ,was disappointing , I am looking for a GPO  "Albion" linesmans van, which comes from the same period, but like a box on wheels, very utilitarian? painted in a dark, almost brown, green, if you know which colour I mean? Keep up the good work. Kevin

Hi Jeff.   I have since contacted John Day Models thank you, he has similar kits, but not the exact vehicle .On a scale of hardness? How do these kits go together ( or will it be in my case another kit awaiting completion?)
All the best. Kevin

John Day kits tend to be at the easier end of the scale for ease of assembly. They consist of few parts. The car kits tend to have three main parts - chassis with cast in wheels, one piece body, and steering wheel, with a vacuum formed glazing unit (I don't always use the latter, preferring to cut my own and mount it as near flush as I can get). The larger trucks and vans can be a little more complex, with that LNER Bedford lorry having cab and bonnet with radiator in one piece, a roof and wrap-over sides, main tray with sides, chassis, front and rear axles, separate wheels and steering wheel.

Assembly with Araldite 5 minute epoxy works well, although I glued the van end on to the chassis with superglue.

I tend to pre-paint everything before final assembly.

A Ford Transit minibus I'm doing for myself is like the cars, with three main components (body, chassis/wheels, rear longitudinal seat unit) plus steering wheel and glazing. Simplicity itself!



The Humber Tourer is also a John Day kit but is unusual for their cars in having separate axles and six separate wheels (two are spare wheels for mounting on the running boards). Both kits are in the process of being painted, so ignore all the rough edges; they will be tidied up.

Hi Jeff.  Keep up the good work, it adds a bit of life to the background , roads, houses etc.  Kevin

Another new project, but one that will take a little while to complete: I have an unpainted Bratchell Models kit for a class 455/9 unit, which will eventually be in South West Trains red inner suburban livery.

The unpainted shells are very dark and my lighting was poor, so these first two shots are only just sufficient to show the initial construction. The clear plastic driving ends will need a little modification to the lights to match the later, refurbished condition, and are not glued in at this stage. They will also be easier to mask off for painting while not installed.

The instructions advise to remove all of the moulded-on door gutters and add new continuous gutters from microstrip. A quick look at some photos online of 455/9 units proved this correct and also showed at what height the new gutters should be mounted - I found that the height suggested in the instructions looked too low, so mounted mine at what looked correct to me, based on the photos of the real things. The ends of the gutter strips at the driving cab ends need to be cut back slightly, but I thought it better, and easier to correct, to have them too long rather than too short.

The MSO (Motor Second Open) coach has already been test fitted to the Replica Railways chassis that will power the whole unit. This had to have the continuous footstep moulding cut off, and a minimal amount filed off the width, then slotted securely straight into the assembled body shell.

Bratchell Class 455-9 Under Construction - 1 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

Bratchell Class 455-9 Under Construction - 3 cropped by Jeffrey Lynn, on Flickr

Hi Jeff.   Reading your piece on "one day running an extra long train consisting off Bachmann class411 EMU's."Reminded me of a "dream" of mine to get my hands(German bands) on a 411 trailer car and running it in one of my 205 DEMU's as it is LOL.All the best.  Kevin

Hi Kevin.
A few of the DEMUs in their later days did get 4 CEP trailers (usually TSOs). In the case of the class 207s, the CEP cars were wider than the 'native' DEMU cars, so stood out even more (not to mention the preserved Hastings unit).

The units with CEP trailers all had refurbished versions, so the Bachmann models are not quite right - they need hopper windows to complete the illusion, but using one 'as is' would certainly not look wrong to me.