Jeff's (SRman) work bench and projects
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Try this out before you do your video and let us know how you get on with it, please.
If you are fortunate enough to have an SLW Class 24 with original ‘factory fitted’ sound there is a hidden variation on the way the engine sounds operate. This can be accessed with a couple of CV changes.
This has been part of the official sound project from the very beginning so anyone who has one of these models will be able to try it without needing to update anything.
The default values of CV265 = 101 and CV387 = 150.
Change these to CV265 = 103 and CV387 = 0
This is how the sounds will operate after these changes:
Start and Idle – normal
Speed Step 1 (or F7) engine sound advances to ‘control lever to position On’
Speed Steps greater than 1 – engine sound does not alter with speed.
F keys 23, 24, 25, and 26 will put the engine sounds into ¼, ½, ¾, or full power respectively. These keys can be used individually or in combination.
All of the dynamic controls via Throttle or F key still work as normal, so simulation of light engine or heavy train is just as convenient, but fully independent control of all engine sounds is now available at all times. (Although F6 still operates as normal, its use is superfluous in this mode).
Reversion to the original scheme can be achieved by reinstalling the default values in CVs 265 and 387.
This driving scheme will not suit everyone’s requirements or tastes, but for those who need or desire the ultimate level of control it will be prove extremely useful.
Good Luck,
Paul
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I can't see me doing too much with the trains for a couple of days as it is very hot here - yesterday was 35 degrees C, today is predicted to get to 37, and tomorrow the weather bureau doesn't seem to have much clue with various press releases saying anything from 27 to 35! Whichever, it's not comfortable modelling weather, although good for quicker drying of paint.
Wishing everyone here a Happy Christmas.
Jeff Lynn,
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Jeff Lynn,
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I identified which wires were doing what by desoldering the outer pair of wires and connecting test leads to them; nothing happened, so I then tested the remaining two wires, which (as I expected) powered the motor through its brush connections (it's actually a coreless motor, so probably doesn't have real brushes!).
Having connected the decoder to the correct wires, I tested on the programming track and all worked properly. I ran it on the main lines but it was a bit hesitant. Further investigation showed that the PCB also had two contact pads for the pickups from the trolley, so I had to dismantle it and solder two more wires on to get all-wheel pickup again.
That was successful, initially, (including on the programming track) but after some running, I found the rear, unpowered axle on the motorised trailer was very hot, so there is a short-circuit somewhere. Possibly, due to the light weight of the trolley and trailer, the pickups were not all working at once, but after the running had bedded them in a little they have a dead short - I'll have to check that the pickup wires are all connected to the correct side.
Further investigation revealed that there were two possible causes for the short; one was a piece of heat-shrink insulation had slipped, exposing some bare wire, and the other was one of the rather delicate springy pickups had got caught up when I reassembled the trolley, allowing it to contact the wheel back and the chassis at the same time.
It has now been sorted and runs nicely, although slightly hesitantly over my third and fourth rail in places (clearances?). Overall, though, it runs well and will be even better when I put some white metal figures in it.
Assembling the trolley and trailer is quite fiddly, but having succeeded, I'm feeling quite satisfied with myself now!
:D





Sorry the last two are a little fuzzy: I didn't have my reading glasses on!
Jeff Lynn,
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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:cool: :cool wink
I intend finding or buying some white metal figures, to add extra weight.
Jeff Lynn,
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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I traced it to a broken wire hidden under a speaker at the leading end (the front as far as DCC is concerned, anyway!). A quick fix with the soldering iron and a new bit of heat-shrink tubing has seen it running perfectly again, with no hesitations where it hits small irregularities in the third rail.
While I had it on the workbench, I also reglued and replaced loose or missing third rail shoe beams (I have a supply bought from Peter's Spares a while back). As the class 60 bogies seem to be resistant to most of the glues I have tried so far, I tried a contact cement this time. We shall have to wait and see if this works any better than the previously used cyano-acrylates and plastic solvents.
Jeff Lynn,
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Please forgive some slight disjoints in the photo; it is actually a blend of three photos with different focal points, to compensate for the lack of depth of field in each.

Now, only three more to do. They aren't difficult, but they are fiddly to do, seeing as I am running wires from both bogies and then running them under the seats via a resistor, and up one end of the coach to the lighting strip.
Jeff Lynn,
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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My own Q Stock train currently has five cars, with two Q23, two Q27/31, and one Q38 car, but I will be adding one more car at a later stage.
Jeff Lynn,
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The first photo shows two of the cars (nos 3 and 4 in the train) for comparison of the before and after; the one on the right has the extra resistor in the line.
The other two photos show the entire 6-car train with "tamed" lighting fitted. I am much happier with the result now.



I suppose the next job will be to paint the seats, now that the interiors can be seen so clearly, and perhaps tidy up one or two stray wires.
Last edit: by SRman
Jeff Lynn,
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The extra resistor has made a big improvement. The layout is progressing nicely too.
I still have a pair of third rail pickups (Hornby). Do you still want them. I can put them in the post for you or I plan to come down the first weekend of Feb to see Penhayle Bay's last open day before its all gone.
Mark
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I am also planning to go to Rick's on the 4th of Feb, so can catch you there. I'm not sure if those pickups you have will be of any use to me, but if you bring them along I can have a look. Many thanks for offering them in any case.
:cheers
Jeff Lynn,
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I hear you on the application of transfers. I sometimes find that the first side takes several sessions and then the second side takes minutes - or so it seems.
Regards Rob
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Anyway, I tackled the first two cars of the five car set yesterday, with a Q23 DM and a Q27 Trailer now done. I chose to flush-glaze the windscreens on the DM, and the glue (Krystal Klear) was still wet on the centre screen in the photos - it starts of like a white PVA glue but dries clear.


The close-up shows every blemish in the finish on the Q23 car!
Jeff Lynn,
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Last edit: by Passed Driver
Staying on the thread Kevin.
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I enjoy hearing about the driving experiences of others. It helps get a feel for the models too.
As for finishing half-done projects, I am just as guilty! Glazing is the bit that really slows me down. As you can see from this topic, wagons with no glazing generally take me a lot less time to finish, and they frequently overtake other projects on my workbench.
Last edit: by SRman
Jeff Lynn,
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