Jeff's (SRman) work bench and projects
Posted

Full Member
Back to the brake van: I have added the brake shoes now, using the mouldings from the LNER wagon underframe kits. The shoes are moulded as part of a 'U' shaped piece. I had to thin the shoe mouldings a little with a file, and took crescent shaped chunks out of the base part of the mouldings to clear the wheels. I also had to remove the outer corners of the base moulding for the outer axles, to clear the underframe cross-members, while the centre axle had an off-centre cross-member near it, which necessitated cutting the 'U' shaped mouldings to form two 'L' shaped bits instead, with one 'L' having a much longer base leg than the other.
None of this was difficult, it just took a little time and patience.
The result, to date, then, is this:


Jeff Lynn,
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Posted

Full Member
Posted

Full Member
I had given it a coat of grey primer earlier that day, and now have applied the first coats of paint, using Humbrol #67 for the initial approximation of the SECR grey (to be followed later with the proper grey after I drill the handrail holes). The roof has had a first coat of satin white, and the wheels a coat of Humbrol #133 brown, followed by a black wash on the wheels, brakes and W-irons (more or less everything below the solebars).


Jeff Lynn,
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Posted

Full Member
Posted

Legacy Member
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen
web-cam 2.2.74.174:8081
if the lights are off no cam
if the lights are off no cam
Posted

Full Member
I'm not sure why they needed three axles, when everything else of the same weight could run on two.
Jeff Lynn,
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Posted

Full Member
I painted the handrails black, except for the end one on the non-verandah end, which is body coloured (SECR wagon grey). I don't think the handrails were white for the period I want to model, but I'm not sure when the white came in. My guess would be during WW1, but it is possible that it was earlier than that.
The windows have now been glazed, and the roof glued on.
Still to go are the lamp irons and footboards, plus lettering.


Jeff Lynn,
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Posted

Full Member
I also used the plastic hangers from the MR kit, but moved the middle ones outwards slightly to clear the centre spring hangers.


Jeff Lynn,
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Posted

Full Member
One snippet I did pick up was that the SECR wagon grey was very similar to Great Western wagon grey, so my choice to use SECR grey on the earlier GW wagon builds seems to be vindicated.
I cannot locate any pictures of the brake vans in the period I want to model, but later photos show the "Goods Brake" lettering (some even show "Goods Break"). It was pure guesswork to put the lettering in the centre of the main side panels - someone will no doubt prove it to be wrong, now I have done it!
The "20 Tons" lettering seems to have been on the solebars, while the numbers (yet to be added) should be on the lower right of each side. Again, I'm not sure whether the numbers should also be repeated on the van ends or not, but it was the case with goods wagons.


Jeff Lynn,
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Posted
Legacy Member
reg
Posted

Full Member
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Posted

Full Member
I really don't know why they, and the Midland railway, whose design it was, chose to do it the way they did. All later new builds had the two verandahs.
Then again, I have always wondered how practical the single-ended Great Western Toads were, for that matter. they can't always have been able to turn them round, which means that the guard had to lean out frequently when travelling in 'reverse'.
Can anyone else here enlighten us further, please?
Jeff Lynn,
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Posted

Full Member
So the idea must have been catching? all the best. Kevin
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Posted

Full Member
Hi Jeff. I have just seen the LSWR "Road Van" with a similar appearance
So the idea must have been catching? all the best. Kevin
Like the one at left in this pic? The two left-hand vans are still on my workbench but nearly complete.

Jeff Lynn,
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Posted

Full Member
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Posted

Full Member
Notwithstanding that, I have ordered a couple of the Kernow models, but in BR liveries. I am having too much fun doing the pre-grouping ones myself.
:cool wink
Jeff Lynn,
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Posted

Full Member
"Always Wear a Respirator Mask" is that really necessary??:???:
Another thing, do you really enjoy using transfers, in which ever shape or form they are in. The one thing I like about the onset of Autumn and Winter, once the allotment has been.dugover where necessary that is, I can concentrate on the Railway, rather than grabbing the odd chance at operating/ playing or whatever. all the best. Kevin
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Posted

Full Member
With MEK, or indeed, any other glues or chemicals like paints and solvents, one should be careful not to breathe them in, and should always work in a well ventilated area. A respirator is a good idea but not essential if you are careful and sensible about using the glues.
As for transfers, I prefer the pressfix type, followed by waterslide (for ease of use). Rub-on ones can be a little trickier to keep aligned, whereas pressfix and waterslide types can be adjusted before setting in place permanently. Pressfix and rub-on types have the advantage of having no carrier film.
I also have some older methfix transfers, which are very similar to the pressfix ones but need a few drops of methylated spirits in the water to release them.
Jeff Lynn,
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Amateur layabout, Professional Lurker, Thread hijacker extraordinaire
Posted

Full Member
all the best. Kevin
Last edit: by Passed Driver
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Posted

Site staff

U Box Van
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
1 guest and 0 members have just viewed this.