Clay & Cattle Wagons

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[user=9]phill[/user] wrote:
Nice G, nice G oh help mnice wagons you have made there mate :thumbs

Phill
???????????
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[user=2]Robert[/user] wrote:
[user=9]phill[/user] wrote:
Nice G, nice G oh help mnice wagons you have made there mate :thumbs

Phill
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I said nice g nice g oh help nice wagons you have made mate, just can not get the rest of the words out of what type they are Bob, :mutley

Phill
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Our Phill's been on the sauce!!!
:mutley:mutley:mutley

Cheers,John.B.
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Either that or The Nurse has upped his medication again!!

What ever it is Phil, I hope you are prepared to share it :mutley:mutley :doublethumb

Last edit: by Marty


Marty
N Gauge, GWR West Wales
Newcastle Emlyn Layout.
Newcastle Emlyn Station is "Under construction"
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Going back to Ken's point about weight and coupling problems,I'll be adding some new couplings to these wagons soon,and I'll do a comparison video of 2 alternative types of N gauge coupler.I realise that a few people on the forum have 'second' layouts in n gauge,so it might be useful to see the alternatives in action.

Cheers,John.B.
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Hope you've all got your popcorn ready!!! This is a little demo film showing two different n gauge couplings that both work using magnets hidden under the sleepers.
  The 2 varieties here are MBM couplings(Painted black in this video),and DG couplings,left their natural brass finish.
  The MBM(black)ones are very like Hornby tension locks,but upside down.The metal droppers you attach to them pull the hooks down over the magnets.
  The DG varietypulls the dropper which lifts the bar/latch over the 'hook' of the next vehicle.
   I prefer the DG type,as you can uncouple them,then push them to where you want to leave the wagons without them reconnecting unless you want to.They're a brilliant design,but the hardest of the two to make up.
   both sets are a vast improvement,(IMHO)on RTR couplings in n gauge.
    Popcorn at the ready???…enjoy!!(Apologies for some shaky camera work in advance,but trying to shunt and focus at the same time is hard work!!Also,not that with the MBM couplings,I finger shunt.The loco I had set up for them has had her couplings changed.For locos using MBMs,you need only attach a wire 'goalpost' front and back..the wagons do the work!)



Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

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That is an excellent demonstration of both types thanks John.
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great little demo John,
this man has hidden talents, must watch  this space  ??

:hmm:doublethumb:lol::lol::lol::cool:
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Cheers lads,
     While we're on the subject of couplings,does anyone know how to chemically blacken brass couplings???
     I've been painting mine to disguise the shiny brass,and if you're not careful,and get too much paint on them it can impair the efficiency of the couplings.There has to be some chemical they can be treated with that doesn't make the little so and so's stick!!!

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs
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John try here. The folks are helpful and have an efficient service (i am a happy customer).

http://www.finescale.org.uk/show_page.php?pid=102&PHPSESSID=d8fd764ee12ae75140a881d1aaf19592

Darren
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Blimey Darren,
        that was quick!!! Thanks a lot mate,I'll give them a go…I've got tons of couplings to change!!!

Cheers,John.B.
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Another wee article here :

http://www.dingham.co.uk/faqs.htm#Blackening

 

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That's fantastic stuff,Darren.Just what I was looking for!Thanks for that,much appreciated.

Cheers,John.B.
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:doublethumb:doublethumb:doublethumb :cheers

That is the best demonstration I've seen on the subject of alternate couplings for N gauge John.

At some stage I plan to change my stock over from the RTR coupling.

I'll be back for some help when I do.

Did you consider the PECO ELSI couplings? and what made you choose something else? Just the fact that the ELSIs just used the existing RTR ones and still looked too large and cumbersome?

cheers

Marty
N Gauge, GWR West Wales
Newcastle Emlyn Layout.
Newcastle Emlyn Station is "Under construction"
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Ken
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Great demonstration John.   I prefer the look of the black ones (the other one looks a bit like a Stag's Antlers!)  One thing I'm puzzled by: does the magnet always uncouple automatically or can it be "turned" off or lowered etc?

Ken.

'It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that Swing'
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Marty,
       Its two things.One,the rtr couplings look awful and are WAY too big,spoiling the look of both stock AND locos.Two,the others are better looking,and work a treat.They make shunting a pleasure!!!

Ken,
     the magnet is permanent under the sleepers..the ones you don't like the look of only uncouple when the tension is released.
They really don't look half bad when the shiny metal is disguised and chemically blackened.Lots of n gaugers swear by 'em.
   They were recommended to me by the boys who run the n gauge"Bodmin"layout.I think they're the best there is.A real beggar to make up at first,but like anything else,once you've done a few,they're a piece of cake!!!

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs
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I have a pile of MBM couplings going begging if anyone would like to try them out.I'm converting all mine to the DG variety.Just PM me with your address,and they're yours!

cheers,John.B.:thumbs
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[user=201]georgejacksongenius[/user] wrote:
Cheers lads,
     While we're on the subject of couplings,does anyone know how to chemically blacken brass couplings???
     I've been painting mine to disguise the shiny brass,and if you're not careful,and get too much paint on them it can impair the efficiency of the couplings.There has to be some chemical they can be treated with that doesn't make the little so and so's stick!!!

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs
 
Have you considered a nice new black permenant marker pen, the big sort? You could cut the tip with a scalpel to your best shape for the job, and 'fluff' the end to make a softer applicator. It's what I use for painting Peco plastic downpipes black and it covers that horrid red brown colour in one go, here's a home made soil pipe finished that way.




 




'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil…'  Aesop's Fables

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Dooferdog,
              Thanks for that tip mate.I have used that on the last set of couplings on a GWR B set,and it works pretty well!:thumbs

Cheers,John.B.
:pathead

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