7mm Narrow Gauge O-16.5
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Dabbling in a larger (for me) scale
Pretty much 'playing it by ear' MartySpent some time yesterday redesigning the top of the roof and rebuilding the base so that the track fits properly.
I'm not in any hurry and when I do finish it, I'll have to do something about sorting out a layout for it to go on.
Ed
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I also just found out that although the parts I drew in LibreOffice Draw easily fit on a piece of A4 paper, the software had decided to shrink some of the drawings slightly on printing, so the shed isn't actually 250mm long it's 244mm long.
I only found out when I printed some drawing on a another printer that was set to 'crop (preserve dimensions)', but it's all a bit of a learning process I suppose.
So, still working on the roof, which is turning into a bit of a marathon
Ed
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Max
Port Elderley
Port Elderley
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Lots of errors, but if you don't try you don't learn.
At least a loco fits.
Ed
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I've actually decided that the surfaces look too flat in this scale. It would probably be ok if it was right at the back of a large layout, but it sits right at the front of my narrow plank.
So, I have today received some Slaters embossed plastikard to try and give it a makeover over Christmas.
Never tried this before, so goodness knows how it will turn out
Ed
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Strips of card overlapping are fine, but I've done shiplap buildings using Foamex and impressing the overlap. Cut lines just below the surface, then with the end of a steel rule or similar instrument angle over a bit and draw down the plank so that the edge is tucked in at the cut. Bingo, shiplap. So easy.
This is 1/32nd scale for a NG layout I once started called Raveloe, but I gave it to a friend with more space and then he suddenly died and I never saw the models again. But it shows what you can do with Foamex sheet. Any signage company will have large offcuts.
Not too keen on that tapered boiler on the Smallbrooke NG black loco. Looks a little out of proportion to me.
I think skirts would look great. Not enough tramways around and track on the sides of roads always looks good.
Martin
Manifestly it is better to use simple tools expertly than to possess a bewildering assortment of complicated gadgets and either neglect or use them incompetently. ( L.T.C.Rolt)
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I don't really want to start all over again in Foamex either, so Plastikard clapboard seemed the easiest solution.
As a member of the 7mm NGA I can get it at a reduced price with free postage, so I thought it was worth a try.
The Smallbrook black loco (Aura) is really just a cab and a chimney on a Hornby body, so yes it isn't really going to look right, but it's a good introduction.
The maroon loco (Echo) is a full body kit and looks much better.
Which reminds me, I still have loco No3, another Smallbrook kit to build and I've just bought a Bachmann Porter 0-4-0 which I hope to anglicize.
Ed
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Martin
Manifestly it is better to use simple tools expertly than to possess a bewildering assortment of complicated gadgets and either neglect or use them incompetently. ( L.T.C.Rolt)
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I've already got the embossed plastikard so I am going to stick with it, but I have a small hut to build so I might give strips of card a go on that.
Ed
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But if you are about to make a hut, try the Foamex method. Much quicker.
Martin
Manifestly it is better to use simple tools expertly than to possess a bewildering assortment of complicated gadgets and either neglect or use them incompetently. ( L.T.C.Rolt)
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Ed
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Martin
Manifestly it is better to use simple tools expertly than to possess a bewildering assortment of complicated gadgets and either neglect or use them incompetently. ( L.T.C.Rolt)
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Ed
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That's likely mto be what you can beg from signage companies as offcuts. I'm lucky as my son works for a signage company
Martin
Manifestly it is better to use simple tools expertly than to possess a bewildering assortment of complicated gadgets and either neglect or use them incompetently. ( L.T.C.Rolt)
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I've been covering the shed with Slaters clapboard and for some reason the last wall I've done has become blistered.
I've used UHU glue to stick the embossed platikard straight over the paper clad card walls and all the other walls are fine.
Not a very good picture, but there's not a lot of light.
It's almost like the glue has reacted with the patikard as the whole wall is warped, but all the other walls are fine.
You can see the warped back wall in the picture below.
Anybody else experienced this?
Ed
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That Plastikard isn't clapboard, it's siding, which is like the sort of wooden walling (usually metal) that Americans use on their walls. Clapboard overlaps, hence the name "shiplap", like the more correctly named "clinker" planking on smaller boats where the plank above overlaps the one below. Of course on a boat the planks are precisely cut in shape and carefully rebated to fit perfectly at the ends. On a shed the planks are just simply overlapped. And that texture shows, in any scale.
I'm surprised how thin that sheet looks. I've been gluing styrene sheets to card for decades and it always works with Evo-Stik, which I put on from a tube quickly and then spread it with my thumb and forefinger…nature's spatulas. Same on the back of the styrene and leave it for a while. Then, with care, bang the two together. The solvents will have evaporated long ago. Your only hope here is to replace it, I'm afraid.
Cheers,
Martin
Manifestly it is better to use simple tools expertly than to possess a bewildering assortment of complicated gadgets and either neglect or use them incompetently. ( L.T.C.Rolt)
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Didn't think I'd used more glue on this wall than I did on the others, but perhaps I did.
I'll give it another go.
Ed
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Now I need to decide what colour to paint it, greyish old wood or ……………………..
Ed
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