Focus stacking.

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For a long while now I have been very dissatisfied with the standard of my photographs - particularly with the lack of dept of field and breadth of focus in macro.

I've started using a device called focus stacking software.  It has the capability of selecting the in focus parts of photographs from a series and combining them into one photo.

Here's a series of photos I've just taken with my camera set on Macro and using the remote shutter trigger.









As you can see, only small parts of each photo is in focus.

Now, I open the software, click on the folder and click on Run.  15 seconds maximum and the composite was done.



It's pretty obvious what a massive improvement it can make.

Now, the four photos were just dashed off.  I actually took a few more, but the others were so far out as to be useless.

The whole process from deciding to do it and posting this thread  was about 15 minutes.

I'm impressed.  I'm looking forward to what I can do when I take my time over it.

It ain't cheap, but it's idiot proof and so simple to use - even I can do it.  :shock:

There are plenty of packs on the interweb.

Here's the one I chose . . .

Helicon Focus - Helicon SoftHelicon Soft   
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Yep. It's something professionals have been doing for some time.
Certainly works for you, Max.
The display stand looks good too.

http://dddioramas.webs.com/

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Thanks, Pete.  I can't believe how easy it is to drive.

Now I have to learn how to do layering in Photoshop.

Then I can make some decent images of my layout, with good backgrounds.

Onward and Upward.  :roll:
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Layering happens automatically every time you import new content.
It's remembering to merge them as appropriate that's tricky!

http://dddioramas.webs.com/

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Yes. Another exciting new experience.

I want to be able to 'shop' out the background of my train room - not have to shoot down into the layout.

Sounds like you could be getting some PM's from me when I start.  :mutley
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That can be quite laborious - even in P/shop, Max.
Best tip there is to produce a neutral background where possible (wallpaper or something).
This will give more sharply defined 'edges' to the subjects and when you fill in the chosen background (say white) will reduce the tendency to bleed into the subject.
P/shop is a very powerful tool but with a very steep learning curve.
I printed out the manual and it's like War and Peace.
I even read some of it but retaining the data without using it daily is difficult.

PS: Those sharp edges will allow the use of the paint bucket - much quicker.
PPS: The continuity of flow on the image is only bordered by a change of tone and not colour.

Last edit: by ddolfelin


http://dddioramas.webs.com/

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I've got Peter Bauer's book, "Photoshop for Dummies," Pete plus the camera club members are pretty helpful.

I thought the grey panel at the back of these would make it a bit easier to play with it.  I'm not expecting it to be easy, knowing what a numpty I am with tekko stuff., but it should be fun.


I had a look at that one, Martin.  I was rather taken with the 3D capability of Helicon as it's based on the same equipment I already have.  It also has a remote control for the DSLR which will match with my hardware.  Eventually I should be able to let the camera shoot all of the images by itself.
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That's a stunning blend of the photos Max. :thumbs

I hate Macro because it's so difficult to get a decent focus if the subject is anything but flat.  your programme seems to have solved the problem.

p.s. Good luck with Photoshop - a bit like learning an encyclopaedia by heart but very rewarding and great fun in the end. :cheers

'Petermac
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Thanks, Peter.  :shock:
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