My Scratchbuilt Catenary
Posted
Site staff
OO gauge OLE
B&Q and Wickes (Homebase aren't really DIY).http://www.diy.com/departments/nails-screws-hardware/builders-metalwork/DIY765615.cat
http://www.wickes.co.uk/Products/Building-Materials/Hardware-and-Metalwork/c/1000179
If I do have to resort to metal…..
https://www.eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_virtuemart&page=shop.browse&category_id=80&Itemid=9
probably best source but as I said before, far more pricey than styrene.
Ed
Posted
Full Member
Here's the B&Q aluminium offering:
http://www.diy.com/search/results/?question=square+section+aluminium
If you search "square section steel" or "rod" you'll find their range. Here, they also do it in brass.
Wickes don't seem to have it online and Eileen's is "modelling quality" therefore much more expensive.
If it is difficult, I could maybe source some here and post it to you …………………:roll::roll:
'Petermac
Posted
Site staff
After all, the Dapol catenary is plastic and seems ok. Although I've read it may be a little flimsy, I've not seen any 'in the flesh'.
There seem to be quite a few layouts using Dapol masts but with no wires, which doesn't look quite right to me. But now Dapol have finally started producing catenary wire sections (which are made of wire) they must believe their plastic masts are capable of holding the weight.
Now I've done the platform wall I can start on catenary mast version 2, using the 5mm square styrene strip, which is 'cheap as chips'
I'm measuring a new jig as I type.
Ed
Last edit: by Ed
Posted
Site staff
Posted
Full Member
I think Dave (westcoast) used gantries throughout rather than posts and hangers ………….:roll::roll:
One of my favourite tram layouts (Grime Street) uses brass tube of differing bores slotted one inside the next size up for his posts and NS wire for the overhead although it's not "live" - normal 2 rail operation is the norm. Naturally for railways, you do need either "H" girder profile or square rather than round.;-)
'Petermac
Posted
Site staff
The styrene square tube is much more rigid than the H strut, so hopefully one problem solved.
(Think I prefer the original style of arm).
Next job is to make up a 500mm section of catenary and contact wires with droppers, which will probably be the longest section of wire run I'll have.
Probably have to wait until after , I mean Christmas
Ed
Posted
Legacy Member
:thumbs;-):cool:
OPwen
web-cam 2.2.74.174:8081
if the lights are off no cam
if the lights are off no cam
Posted
Full Member
'Petermac
Posted
Site staff
That'll do for me :thumbsmust agree the original arm does look better
:thumbs;-):cool:
OPwen
Thanks Owen, I'll stick with arm version 1.
Ed
Posted
Site staff
Two votes, definitely the right version then.Yep - I'd go with that too - the original design is better. :thumbs
Thanks Peter. :thumbs
Ed
Posted
Full Member
Marty
Posted
Site staff
The newer version is actually nearer the Dapol version, which is 'sort of' BR Mk3 catenary.
Bing search produced:-
http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/uploads/monthly_06_2010/post-1-12759087499_thumb.jpg
My original cantilever arm is nearer BR Mk1, which had round posts I believe.
But hey, I'm only trying to represent OLE, not model it accurately.
Ed
Posted
Inactive Member
Just catching up again with your progress on the masts.
If you go down the styrene tube method you could always insert some threaded rod up the tube to keep it rigid. It would actually be very strong indeed if you can find a snug fit. You could take a section of tube with you to the DIY store and try it for size.??
It would be like I suggested back in an earlier post.
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=14021&forum_id=52&page=1#p253991
:cheers Gormo
"Anyone who claims to have never made a mistake, never made anything!!"
https://sites.google.com/site/greatchesterfordmodelrailway/home
https://sites.google.com/site/greatchesterfordmodelrailway/home
Posted
Site staff
Think the styrene square tube will be rigid enough, as the system won't be tensioned and the pantographs won't be touching the wires.
Wouldn't mind getting hold of a Dapol mast for comparison, but I'm not buying a pack 10 for £8 + postage if I'm not going to use them.
Also don't want the catenary too rigid in case I leant on it while doing something else and do myself a mischief. Prefer to replace a mast and some wires, than have a piece of metal stuck somewhere painful
Ed
Posted
Inactive Member
It`s making my eyes water just thinking about it.
Cheers
Gormo
"Anyone who claims to have never made a mistake, never made anything!!"
https://sites.google.com/site/greatchesterfordmodelrailway/home
https://sites.google.com/site/greatchesterfordmodelrailway/home
Posted
Site staff
The posts are sat on top of the baseboard so they and the contact wire are about 10mm higher than they should be.
The pantograph is also fully extended and it will actually be fixed slightly lower, just below the wire.
From a distance (excuse poor photos, not much light).
Bit nearer.
Looks a bit 'chunky' up close
Definitely too 'chunky'
I've managed to find and order some 4mm square styrene strips to make slightly thinner posts and I'm going to use thinner wire for the post arms.
I've some 0.4mm copper wire and some 0.4mm brass wire to experiment with for the catenary, so next job is make up some new jigs.
Ed
Posted
Full Member
Posted
Legacy Member
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen
web-cam 2.2.74.174:8081
if the lights are off no cam
if the lights are off no cam
Posted
Site staff
It appears that the 0.4mm copper and brass wire can't really be straightened enough for my purposes and keeps returning to a partially coiled state after stretching and twisting.
Probably OK for a tensioned system, but I don't really want to head down that route.
Going to test some 1/0.6 equipment wire next, which appears to retain a nice straight length, but may not be robust enough.
Ed
Posted
Site staff
Catenary is definitely less 'chunky'.
Ed
1 guest and 0 members have just viewed this.