My Scratchbuilt Catenary
Posted
Full Member
OO gauge OLE
Hi Ed,Looks very good to me. Some things have to be slightly overscale otherwise they last all of 5 minutes - this is one of them. I'm following closely, I have some catenary building coming up shortly (when I have the loco's running).
Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
Posted
Site staff
There are some excellent layouts around where people have made far more accurate OHLE than mine, interestingly the majority are modelling the West Coast main line.
I'm just happy with something hanging over the rails so that the AC locos don't look totally out of place.
Ed
Posted
Banned
Keep up the great work. :thumbs
Cheers, Gary.
Posted
Site staff
Ed
Posted
Legacy Member
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen
web-cam 2.2.74.174:8081
if the lights are off no cam
if the lights are off no cam
Posted
Site staff
Ed
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Legacy Member
well we are all in that club eh?Thanks Owen, not sure about 'sit back and enjoy' though, you'll notice the loco still hasn't been painted Rail Blue although I've had the paint since February.
Ed
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen
web-cam 2.2.74.174:8081
if the lights are off no cam
if the lights are off no cam
Posted
Site staff
It's a bit high as some of the post will go through the baseboard, but it's supposed to resemble this …
https://www.google.co.uk/maps/@51.6611788,0.8354674,3a,27.8y,95.97h,89.57t/data=!3m6!1e1!3m4!1sbwjsYarA_-bTAht3Pe2V5w!2e0!7i13312!8i6656!6m1!1e1
plus plenty of modelers license
Ed
Posted
Legacy Member
:thumbs;-):cool:
Owen
web-cam 2.2.74.174:8081
if the lights are off no cam
if the lights are off no cam
Posted
Full Member
Excellent modeling, JLTRT.
Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
Posted
Inactive Member
Max
Port Elderley
Port Elderley
Posted
Site staff
It should be strong enough to hold the catenary up at the end of the line, which is the main thing.
Ed
Posted
Full Member
cheers Marty
Last edit: by Marty
Posted
Site staff
It's taking a lot longer than I thought to get any wires up though, as there are so many other things that need to be done first so that the wires aren't in the way :sad:
Ed
Posted
Full Member
Posted
Site staff
I thought you were doing another class 31 detailing project, managed to get anywhere?
Ed
Posted
Full Member
Not yet, been busy with the garden and probably will be till the autumn, but its still on the to-do list along with everything elseThanks Aaron.
I thought you were doing another class 31 detailing project, managed to get anywhere?
Ed
Posted
Full Member
Here's a few suggestions based on my experience…
For the posts I use code 100 rail as it's easy to solder, stronger than plastic and much cheaper than buying brass H section and TBH looks ok from a normal viewing distance. If you are making legs for gantries use 2 lengths of code 100 for the uprights and smaller N gauge rail for the cross sections. I use a small measuring stick (lolly stick with pen marks on) when building up a set of legs. To secure the posts to the baseboard I knock in a panel pin and then just solder the rail to it.
The reg arms need to be brass as it is stronger than copper and less prone to bending when tensioned. Wrap some wire round one end before soldering to represent the insulator.
Have a look in a dress making shop for some press studs they make good weights for the tension masts and also use for the pulley wheels.
For the contact wire on wemblesden I used some old cat 5 cable that was stripped back to bare copper. Since putting up the 'knitting' I have discovered some stretchy rubber elastic 'stuff' in my local boyes store that is 0.5mm and looks similar to a product called EZ wire. I first herd about EZ wire on the MERG forum apparently you can superglue bits of it together so I will be looking into this as tensioning copper wire is a pain! If you are modelling the old mk1 system the wires look much more realistic if you paint them verdigris green along with the reg arms. The later mk3 stuff used aluminium so it would be light grey.
Finally don't set the contact wire too high. If you look at pics of the pans on AC locos they only appear to be at half height (unless you are modelling the class 87's in Bulgaria!)
If you are going for the fixed height pan you might want to have a go at fitting a 'pan flash' effect. Here's a link to my website explaining how I did it.. http://www.westcoastminiatures.com/panflash.html
Keep up the good work. :thumbs :cool: ;-)
Busy building a new show layout …..
www.westcoastminiatures.com
www.westcoastminiatures.com
Posted
Site staff
My efforts at present are purely cosmetic and although based a bit on Mk1 and/or Mk3, are just a mis-mash of gantries/portals, masts and (hopefully soon) wires, to represent catenary and stop the AC locos looking daft going around the layout
That said, if my current plan of hooking the wires over the appropriate point on the registration arms doesn't work and I do have to resort to soldering the wires, then code 100 rail may well be the answer for stronger masts and gantries.
I'm making cateneary wires up from stripped and hardened 1/0.6 hook up wire, but I wish I'd know about using CAT 5 before. Can't tell you how much I've thrown away as we've gone wireless :thud
Ed
Posted
Full Member
http://www.westcoastminiatures.com/wemblesden.html
Busy building a new show layout …..
www.westcoastminiatures.com
www.westcoastminiatures.com
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