Converting wagons for the D&S
Posted
#69704
(In Topic #3849)
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![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_081936_200000000.jpg)
Now in the model Company world, they all used 3 link etc requiring buffers but the new organisation is updating wagons with air braking systems & knuckle couplings just like the real South Aust Railways did many years ago so the following posts will describe how I convert a wagon to suit the new organisation.
Posted
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![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_081942_420000000.jpg)
The first step is to remove the existing coupling
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_081943_370000000.jpg)
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_081944_170000000.jpg)
By what ever method ( I use Stanley Knife), remove the mouldings that are used for the existing couplings together with buffers & hook on the buffer beam,. The beam will get re-painted later.
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_081946_370000000.jpg)
Next photo has a Kadee No 5 in a box with the screw that will be used to mount it.
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_081947_510000000.jpg)
The next part is to drill a hole about 1/16th diameter into the floor/frame with the Kadee box hard up against the buffer beam - the white cross shows the hole
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_081950_040000000.jpg)
And now the coupler box is fitted
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_081949_280000000.jpg)
Using a Kadee height gauge, this wagon is so close not to need any shims
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_081951_270000000.jpg)
That bit has been done, now details in the next post.
Posted
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Details,
I re-number at both sides & add to the ends plus the Company logo using the method of printing out on my printer & onto paper & supa glue to the body ( described under my layout threads)
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_081955_430000000.jpg)
This particular wagon has had other numbers previously & getting then off was a pain so that is why the body side looks rough
. Weathering will camouflage this.
As this model is missing bars at the top
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_082000_380000000.jpg)
I use a small number drill like #70 & drill small holes at the ends & middle frames & glue in thin wire rod & painted
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_082002_320000000.jpg)
Because these wagons only have brake shoes on one side of the wheels, with Air braking ( whatever method). to prevent axle boxes spreading under braking, tie rods between axle boxes are fitted - in this case, wire rod glued to the bottom & painted.
![](https://yourmodelrailway.net/gallery/95/95_241417_440000000.jpg)
A touch of white paint on the brake lever handles then dull coat the entire wagon - weathering powders to be done later.
I think that is it.
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reg
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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For the weight of the wagon, you could use the NMRA recommendation
or another Association being the AMRA
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
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Michael
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There is also the Kadee #21 with a longer arm than the #5 which solves the positioning issue for many but not all stock. Those with longer buffers may still need repositioning as I found recently on my WC&PR coaches with white-metal buffers.
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