Teasel Bay
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Early construction of a simple 00 garage layout
So I think I’m complete on the water front. Which is a shame as I’ve really enjoyed it. I think it’s been my favourite part to model so far.



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Thanks Marty.Fabulous Chris… Bravo… and… going back quite a few years an official forum “Nice!â€
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So one fun thing about resin if that if it finds a hole it keeps going and going and going. So I have my hot glue gun at the ready but near the rocks I had a major issue! So I grabbed the first thing I could find which would plug it.

So the bridge I made for my boxfile was unceremoniously glued in place to reduce the dripping! I also sacrificed the t-shirt I was wearing due to the amount of drips! Resin doesn’t come out of clothing! I had to use a saw to remove it the bridge when the resin was dry.
I also realised even though I tried to keep the scene level during construction, it wasn’t perfect. I also should have brought the whole harbour scene up by 3-4cm. So hidden at the end of the pier is a ‘mighty large’ step, which I have tried to hide as a wave.


If I didn’t have the drop the whole harbour would have been flooded which I thought would have spoilt the scene.
So there you go, it doesn’t always go to plan! But as I said, it is easily the most exciting part of the build so far.
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Despite the trials and tribulations, you rose magnificently to the occasion and produced a masterpiece. Your seascape is a joy and you should be justly proud of your modelling.
Very well done.
Best,
Bill
At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born :)
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I liked this image of the extra services running this evening to take the crowds back home. Just a few stragglers left in the beach now.
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I also got a few 3D printed gradient posts which I’ve also painted today.

These examples came from West Hill Wagon Works. These companies which proved bespoke 3D printed items are very helpful!
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Added the semaphore signal posts in too.

Added hunt coupling between each loco and the first coach/carriage this evening to increase stock movement variety!


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Best wishes
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Thanks John.All these added details add so much to the scene…..I like your gradients posts……something I have been meaning to do for ages. Likewise with working signals… eventually I will try and install a trial item from Dapol…how do you operate yours?
Best wishes
I use the "Train Tech SC3 DCC Signal Controller" which connects two signals to the DCC bus so they can be addressed. Its a very simple device and has worked flawlessly!
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Cheers
Matt
Wasnie me, a big boy did it and ran away
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
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They make it far easier to connect and disconnect stock.
Which ones do you have?
Last edit: by TeaselBay
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One year . . . . :roll:
Wasnie me, a big boy did it and ran away
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
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If you want little hands to put them together then the bi-directional elite may be better. I do like them though, they occasionally disconnect, mainly if a train stalls and jolts but normal couplings can do the same.
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Work has gone crazy atmo so I've no time or energy for anything else, but once I get a few minutes spare I think I'll look into these properly and work out which ones will work best for my stock ( mainly tension lock atmo)
Lunchtime over, back at it :roll:
Cheers
Matt
Wasnie me, a big boy did it and ran away
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
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Just how powerful are the magnets ? What will they pull up a gradient ?
Do you have any experience with Kadees ? That's my initial choice as a replacement for TLs although they're not perfect. I've had them uncouple for no apparent reason and, on occasion, it's a real pain trying the get the height correct. The positioning of couplings amongst the UK RTR manufacturers makes one realise they're not all singing from the same hymn sheet.
'Petermac
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Regarding your first question, I would expect them to hold for a reasonable long stock up a gradient. Teasel is pretty flat and I can’t run mammoth trains.. but I have seen videos of them in use on long club layouts. For their size it takes a reasonable pull to separate. As I said I usually get an issues if the train stalls a second and jolts forward but tbh I’ve had that with standard lock things. As Teasel is a roundy roundy they work fine. They’d be rubbish for a shunting layout. Although I’m sure if they tried they could use an electromagnet, then with dcc you can separate at any time. I should patent it!That's what I was about to ask Chris - you've answered it by saying "occasionally, they disconnect".
Just how powerful are the magnets ? What will they pull up a gradient ?
Do you have any experience with Kadees ? That's my initial choice as a replacement for TLs although they're not perfect. I've had them uncouple for no apparent reason and, on occasion, it's a real pain trying the get the height correct. The positioning of couplings amongst the UK RTR manufacturers makes one realise they're not all singing from the same hymn sheet.
I haven’t tried Kadees, I like the simplicity of the magnets. It’s like they boys brio! It’s very easy to change stock. I haven’t yet had any issues with height but I only use modem stock, maybe it was an issue with older?
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I hadn't thought about shunting layouts but yes, I can understand they'd be no good for them.
Get your patent sorted before too many people read your reply …… ;-)
'Petermac
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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I also hope your van arrives at some point. It is always annoying to be waiting on a delivery that isn’t arriving!
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