[user=394]ddolfelin[/user] wrote:

Er … it wouldn't cut through 6mm, Doug.

I've probably misunderstood the question.

I fink you have! I meant that the blade protrudes barely 1/8" through the material…..

Doug

Peter, the trick to stopping jigsaw blades deviating is to replace them regularly with sharp blades so you don't have to push it very hard.   My circular saw has a 10 inch blade, so it doesn't like any deviation from the straight ahead.

I do replace them fairly regularly Max, particularly if I'm cutting something important like a roadbed ………….

Maybe I need to buy a better jigsaw……….:thumbs

I still have my doubts about a circular saw Doug.  :roll:  Mine certainly won't go off line without a horrible screaming sound and a strong smell of burning wood …..:It's a no no

O.K. Peter, though I expect your blade is more than 6" in diameter and you have the riving knife in place when you tried it. You could fix a temporary trammel to your jigsaw and cut with the 'point' off the sheet of ply, but only if you want true arcs, and not transistion curves etc…

 

Doug

It would need to be a combination of both Doug - a true arc for the curve but with transitions at each end.  I could do the transitions by eye then attach the saw to a trammel for the major part of the near 180 deg turn-around ……….:hmm

My circular saw has a blade of around 5.5 to 6" and yes, there is a riving knife but I think I can take that off.

Hi Marty thought you might like the photos North Norfolk railway had a Titfield Thunderbolt Weekend with visiting GWR 14xx and containing NNR’s Wisbech and Upwell Tramcar (sister to that used in the film) and completed by a visiting GWR Toad brake van.

Photo 3 is not mine that was taken by George Aldridge. Thanks

Thanks for that info Glenn, I have removed the picture you mention.

Thanks for the comments, photos of the 14xx and the off topic discussion. 

It's been a while so here's a continuation of the Occupation Bridge build.
After the previous photo plasticard brickwork is added to the right buttress and the bridge is test fitted to the gap again to ensure that everything still fits and it looks OK. Yup, for 2mm that'll do.





Onwards with the brickwork, the 3D modelling in google sketchup helps with determining what to clad in brick and what to leave.





Gaps need to be left in the bridge pillars to accommodate the plasticard girders as seen in the picture below.





Then first pass at the paint job and cap stones for the columns, just balsa squares cut to fit.





Weathering with black wash of acrylics and then,  once dry, Tamiya powders, tones down the above bright colours. Rather happy with the rusty girders!





And finally,the bridge in place with the farmers tractor on the newly built up road, which will receive a layer of polyfiller gloop to bring it up to the level under the bridge later on.





A useful comparison between Scalescenes brick papers on the river bridge on the left and the plasticard on the occupation bridge on the right.

At normal view distance the Scalescenes stands up very welll but for the close up photography I prefer the 3d plastic.

Hope it's of interest.
cheers

Marty

The balsa makes pretty good stone in N, Marty.  :thumbs

Very easy to work with too Max, a bit of filing around the edges for shape and it sucks up the paint well too.

It's coming along really well Marty, I thing both the brick paper and plastic look good, if I was nit picking I would say that for N the relief is a little too much with the plastic, but this will only show up in a close up as I think it's probably not noticeable from a distance.

 

Good snow scene with the last picture  :lol::lol::lol:

 

Phil

Yes, it is a bit chunky, I really should have used the proper brick rather than the stone but it was a compromise, the brick, at normal viewing distance just fades out too much. ah well, always going to be some generalisation in this hobby.
The snow scene is going…. soon… :lol:

I think your snow scene is coming to my place again…soon :sad:

 

Phil

Hmmm, a re-build is in the offing? :shock:

It's great to see you getting back into it Marty and a very interesting "how to" - or perhaps I should say "how I did it"!!!

I too think the River Bridge looks a little more realistic particularly as it's so well weathered (but then I prefer paper to plastic anyway.   Having said that I'll be using both types too!!!!!    Oh well…………).

Looking forward to more progress.

Ken.

Just an observation regarding plastic, Wills brick in particular.

 

Getting back to factory modelling in my Pen Y Bryn thread, i'm using sheet that's about ten years old and it is soooo brittle, it snaps and chips easily, but not so with the grey corrugated ones.

 

Perhaps a bit of useless info to most :roll:

 

Phil

No Phil - you're right.
Unless care is used, old Wills sheets do shatter (and they 'feel' harder when cutting, too).

Good to see you, Marty.

Thanks Ken, Phill and DD,
I'll be watching the factory scene come together Phill.
I've heard that Will sheet is pretty tough to get through and have avoided using it as a consequence of that advice.
Slaters and Plastruct for me…. oh… and old shirt box clear plastic lids for glazing. :thumbs

Marty, don't be put off by Wills, they're ok…unless you have the ten year old red brick ones :lol:

 

As for the factory buildings, i'm running short of material, so i'm improvising with the second building…but I will have to spend some money soon I fear :lol:

 

Phil