Hi Marty,

Taking shape. Once you get your artistic hands on the landscaping element ……. Another masterpiece.

Cheers

Toto

Nice bit of fudging there Marty :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

:cheers  Gormo

hehe… The Fudgemeister…

Struck out again actually… Despite checking several times where the point motors would go, yep, you guessed it, one of the cross braces is right where the second point motor for the double slip is meant to go… Sigh.






I'm taking advantage of a bit of quiet time to get some railway done. Doesn't feel like I'm cracking on, painfully slow, especially the wiring, but progress IS being made, albeit with three steps forward and one step back.


Cheers


Marty

[user=1224]gormo[/user] wrote:

Nice bit of fudging there Marty :thumbs:thumbs:thumbs:thumbs

:cheers  Gormo

Fudging Gormo? It's modeller's license

Nice bit of track work there Marty :thumbs


Ed

Rule one I reckon Ed :thumbs

I will get tthere Marty , Just trying to clear the decks so I can visit mum for 8 days and help with some sorting and clearing . Might even get the time to start a thread lol. Till then I'll keep flitting from thread to thread or Tom will catch me 

Sorry Marty,
Ahem…..er…ah….yes….modellers license….yes….that`s quite correct as pointed out by Ed and rightly so……my goodness gracious!!!
My apologies chaps!!!……:oops::oops::oops::oops::oops:

:cheers  Gormo

The double slip.
Might need some help here… at least some confirmation that I'm heading down the right track :cool:
To change the points on the double slip the throw bar moves approximately 1.5mm, The SEEP PM1 point motor's actuator bar moves a maximum of 6mm.  To be able to get a good connection between the auxiliary switch contacts on the SEEP the actuator bar needs to move at least 4mm.
Although I'm using a 12mm thick baseboard to allow the SEEP rod between the actuator and points throw bar to "flex" a little on the normal points, thus allowing the auxiliary switch contacts to engage,  I'm thinking that the double slip points look a bit fragile and aren't going to stand up for long to a full blooded SEEP 6mm "Wham" when all that is needed is 1.5mm!

So a mechanical linkage has been fettled up by engineers Bodgit & Scarper with an offset pivot point to convert the 6mm SEEP movement to double slip 1.5mm.

Thin 0.5mm brass plate, 6mm wide and 40mm long has been used as the linkage and a Peco point motor extension bar has been epoxied at right angles to the linkage plate. The components are shown in the photo. The expoy is being given 24 hours to cure before assembling the linkage.





A further photo of the assembled linkage will be forthcoming in due course.
cheers
Marty

All sounds very precise Marty.

Hadn't realised that the movement of the tie bar in N was so small.



Ed

Glad to see I'm not the only one having trouble with N  gauge double slips and also scissors! However my problems seem to be with wiring rather than actuation which is wire in tube, not much can go wrong with that.

Yeah it's a pretty small movement, especially on slips Ed.

Are you having problems with the double slip wiring Mike or just the scissors?

I've just ducked into the layout room to test the linkages Bodgit & Scarper have put together and while "glued" it certainly is, rigid I feel it is not and I'm wondering if they would have been better soldered rather than using epoxy?

Any thoughts?

Cheers

Marty

Hi Marty,

I would go down the solder route. Possibly better in the long run. I once used a pivot to connect two cross-over points together and ran them off one solenoid. It worked a treat, although I used rectangular brass tube with the point motor pins soldered in place through both sides of the brass tube. I can tell you it was still working A1, right upto the point in time of dismantling the layout.

Cheers, Gary.

Thanks Gary…. That'll be a plan (b) I reckon since the glue has set. I like the concept of longevity, I was worried that the solder may not be able to resist the forces.

…and the epoxy didn't work, not rigid enough…

Now to scrape the glue off, clean and then solder the parts and see if that works.


Marty

G`day Marty,
Yep ……solder is the way to go.!!
Would it be possible to replace the Seep supplied connection to the tie bar with something more flexible / springy???. …….wire in other words…….maybe 1.0mm or less…..possibly guitar string….I`m not sure of N scale dimensions or requirements. It would give you a bit more tolerance without stressing the parts. The throw could exceed 1.5mm but the flexibility would absorb the excess and act like a spring.

:cheers  Gormo

Thanks Gormo…currently soldering!

There is a bit of twist and flex in the 0.5mm plate, but I'll bear a more flexible link wire in mind if things go awry.

Cheers

Marty

What you need is Omega loops

GEM 1005 Mercontrol Omega Loop Wire Pack of 6 loops

You can "bend yer own" in piano wire (if you're desperate)

Cheers Mike… Bodgit & Scarper, who I believe you use?, did briefly consider Omega loops but indicated that their would be an increase to the cost of the project which the board of directors was keen to avoid if possible.

At the moment a re-fabrication of the linkages with solder seems to have done the job…






Now to add the motors…

Cheers

Marty

Cheers Mike… Bodgit & Scarper, who I believe you use?

No actually use some cousins of theirs, Bodgem and Fudgit or for rolling stock, including locos, then it's Bashem and Hackitt.

Strange though, they use the same motto, "Nil Fixit Seducem" (which can very loosely be translated as "If ya can't fix it, do the other thing")

Ah yes, of course, all equally reputable firms :lol:

Marty

I have a couple of slips to fit at some point. Is it possible to elongate the hole in the tie bar so it is an extra 4.5mm long/wide? This would then allow the SEEP to travel the full 6mm while the tie bar would only move 1.5mm. In other words the SEEP would travel 4.5mm before the tie bar even moves :cool: