Off at a tangent once more.

Hi Tom

Coffee, is never a problem, checked with the boss and any day will suit - such a hectic social life takes seconds to re-arrange.

Bring em on as they say.

Paul

No problem, let me check with SWMBO to see if she has any preference as to which day I leave her heart broken ( but not with my cash line card ).

If she has no preference then probably Saturday if that's ok. I believe I am owe you a big easy driver. I'll try and remember to pack that with me.

Is there anything else that I need bring ?

Ohhhh and remember ……. Your not allowed to hurt my head with techy bits.

Cheers

Toto

[user=878]Gary[/user] wrote:

Hi Nigel,
Could it be that it works better with neodymium magnets as the total area of the neo magnets is 18mm in length (three sleeper gaps) compared to the 51mm of the Kadee 308..?? I have found with added weight, the 308 still pulls the wagons, whereas the neos' don't. Below is a pic of two wagons coupled using No.18s and the 308 magnet underneath. The axles are right on the very ends of the magnets.



Cheers, Gary.
 

Hi Gary,

That's exactly the issue with the 308. Kadee made them so there would be some leeway in where the couplings go over the magnet, basically to accommodate different gear box lengths (and then some). With steel axles and UK stock it has to be in the middle or pretty close. I use #17's  so my wagon axles are even closer to the magnet. Even when spotted exactly in the middle the wagons lurch in response to the magnetic field. Putting some spacers between the underside of the track and the magnet helps, but it means all of the knuckle springs have to be in top condition. Neodymium magnet strips can be well away from the axles with the downside of a narrow uncoupling distance. One thing that struck me about the neodymium magnets is that they are almost the same width as the sleepers. Why not cut 3 sleepers out inboard of the chairs and replace with the magnets? Pack with styrene strip as required. Would look much neater, and would not affect track stability.

Nigel

Which reminds me, I've just carried out the track laying alterations and have not incorporated the magnet.:thud

Oh well. Not too great a setback. Could be tonight's task before I go any further. I should have a whiteboard or something on the wall with an action list scribbled on it. Revise it after every visit changing the task priority as I work through them. Could save a lot of wasted time and effort I think.

Cheers

Just nipped up to B&Q and managed to get some very thin hollow tube made of brass. It should take a bend and therefore will be ideal for my other wire in tube point control.

I'll be installing that tonight along with the kadee magnet. That will be tonight's tasks. I may get a bit more done depending on how long it takes me to do the above.

I'll post up some pictures of my progress as usual. How exciting ……. Not.:lol:

Cheers for now

Toto

What size is the tube Tom (diameter)?

Cheers
Ron

Hi Ron,

 

I'm guessing but it must have an OD of approx. 1.5mm or so. I have installed it tonight but not before bu@@erring up a set of points when drilling out the tie bar to accept the tube. never mind, he we are.



The aluminium tube must be about 4.5mm OD or there about. I can find out the exact size should you wish to look for the stuff yourself.

here is one of the tube coming through the T bar.



I started looking at the positioning of my kadee magnets. you'll see what I have done over the next few photos. I think this will spark a bit of a debate.



and another



I will be using four positioned as shown. Over kill but I could not position one in the obvious place ( as suggested by Gary ) due to the lack of length. I will explain that one later.



another



and another



The first one sunk in,




I had to stop as the banging was a bit loud considering the neighbours so that was as far as I got.




The next one for cutting in.

And one last shot.



the positioning of the magnets is based on the use of two shunters. One residential shunter and an incoming shunter. I'll try and work up a diagram to show how I would intend working the system.

As I said before, I could not place one just after the kickback lane and before the three sidings as that would have been the best place but there is not enough room. So ….. lets see if the above makes sense to anyone of it suggests chaos or an unworkable solution. Most moves will involve the movement of two wagons at a time with the exception of the incoming shunter that will bring in three or maybe 4 at a push. It does make for lots of movements.

Anyway ….. lets see the questions it throws up.

 

cheers for now

 

toto










 

Hi Toto

Have you forgotten the Kadee shuffle, you only need one magnet at the throat, and one at the end of the reception road to uncouple the delivery loco from its train.

Paul

There ain't enough room at the throat. That's the problem. Unless I remove the kick back siding which would give me a longer straight section prior to hitting the first set of points.

Hi Paul,

Gary suggested placing the magnet at the throat as well because with the delayed coupling, you could basically decouple and push into any siding. Due to the lack of enough straight track available at the throat, my way of thinking was as follows.

I'll be as clear as I can,

The visiting shunter pulls into Highbridge and takes its train right into the main goods lane ( the longest one ) . The shunter goes to nearly the end of the lane where it uncouplers the whole train and draws forward a couple of scale feet.

The resident shunter pulls out of the kickback lane, approaches the wagons and couples up. It then draws out onto the main track and then pulls forward again distributing the wagons into the other two sidings. This lets the visiting shunter pull out and disappear back off scene.

The resident shunter then reallocates the wagons to the main lane siding to be unloaded. Once unloaded the wagons can be reformed by the resident shunter into a train again and await collection by the visiting shunter again.

The cycle can then be repeated or only part of the train maybe unloaded and a bit of additional shunting with one or two additional incoming wagons could maybe be facilitated.

Does that make any sense or Am I talking a load of Gladys Knight.

Cheers

Toto

PS ….. I did not think that was too bad logic for a complete rookie.

G`day Toto,
Regarding drilling tie bars ,and plastic for that matter, where it`s critical not to damage the surrounding area, I use a pin vice……a hand held drill in other words.
If you have one I would suggest you use it for tie bars and if you don`t have one, it would be a good thing to have as they are an important tool for modellers.
Even the best electric mini drill will rev too high and consequently damage plastic by friction.

This link shows a typical pin vice.
http://au.element14.com/duratool/pv2237-d/pin-vice-set-w-5-drills/dp/1826436?ost=1826436&mckv=s|pcrid|59148083448&CMP=KNC-GOO-SHOPPING-1826436&CAGPSPN=pla&gclid=CP3h1IHM98cCFceSvQodP8kJUQ&CAWELAID=120185580000127442&gross_price=true

:cheers  Gormo

Hi Gormo,

I should have known better myself and the embarrassing thing is that I actually have one :oops:a typical example of my ham fistedness. Also too much rushing to get things done.

Thanks for that though, I think it's time to look it out.

Cheers

Toto

For Highbridge Tom, which is, correct me if I'm wrong, your "give it a go and see what happens" learning module, I think that the locations of the uncoupling magnets will work fine. 

There are enough points, sidings and uncouplers to a) keep you busy shunting and b) have multiple points of failure (or success, which would be boring and defeat the purpose of the exercise).

The more solved failures you have the more you learn.

When you no longer have failures…. then you've learnt :roll: … works for me on NE anyway.

Carry on… Oh… you are. ;-):lol:

Marty

Hi Marty,

Cheers. You are right. It's all about learning from your mistakes and the process has begun. A bit like the statement on Gormo's posts, …….. Anyone who claims they haven't made a mistake……. Haven't made anything.  Never a truer word.

As for the magnets. As I said, I couldn't fit one at the throat due to the length so ……….. Rather than come back on squealing, I thought, ok , how else could it work. I think I have came up with the solution in what I have done. Fair enough, I've used more magnets than the way initially intended but no worries there.

Anyway, I'm glad you think the coupling solution is workable. Always encouraging to get a bit confirmation, especially before I go digging more dirty big holes in the baseboards for the other magnets.

So far, Highbridge has given me a number of new ventures that the G & GLR hasn't. ……….. Wire in tube, magnetic uncoupling, landscape forming and the building and scenic side will soon come into play. I think, in a very short space of time it is accomplishing what it set out to do and I am enjoying every minute of it.

Again ….. Cheers

Toto

Morning Toto (you're up and posting early )

I'm with Marty, this is a 'suck it and see' plank and the magnet location should work ok with your proposed shunting moves.

Go for it.


Ed

I see where you are going with the magnet positions. Fair game I say ! But please remember what has been written previously regarding the Kadee 308 magnet and the steel wheel sets of UK rollingstock, hence the reason for me (and others here) using neodymium magnets and adding weight to the wagons… Another reason for adding weight to the wagions is that the neo magnets are very strong and if the wagon is on the lighter side, the glad arm (lower hook arm) on the Kadee coupler is attracted to the magnet causing a derailment. Guess how I know this ?? :oops:

If you have a two wagons with Kadees fitted, push them over the magnet by hand and uncouple the two. You will find that one of the wagons (the one left sitting in the siding) will pull back over the magnet.

I will add that I have 5 uncoupling spots on Linden Ford, only because the throat to the four sidings (platform, goods, coal, cattle dock) is curved and we all know Kadees don't uncouple on curves…

Cheers, Gary.

Hi Ed,

The dogs are starting to get restless and are having us up at all hours at the moment. They are getting old and their bladders ain't what they used to be :hmm ……. Can't argue with that.  However, it is unusual if we ever get a nights unbroken sleep so I try to take my fair share of getting up to keep SWMBO happy.

So ……. I'm up now and thought I'd check in. I'll be firing up the laptop shortly to get cracking with some more mind numbing spreadsheet exercises for my work so will treasure what posting time I have between now and then.

Again, it's good to get feedback on things as I don't know about you but I still lack a bit confidence in my own idea's at times and feel a bit more reassured when others sort of confirm your thoughts.

Sometimes there is no right or wrong it's purely subjective but in the case of uncoupling positions, there are probably " desirable " or " prototypical " ways of doing it which is where my lack of knowledge of the real thing lets me down.
However, as has been said, it's a suck it and see plank and it's all about learning. I dare say that once it's operational I will have several of these moments where I think ………. I wish I had placed a magnet here or over there. As Marty says …… You are then learning.

Good to see you up at half past Cornflakes as well. How's progress for yourself ?

Cheers toto

[user=1505]toto[/user] wrote:

Good to see you up at half past Cornflakes as well. How's progress for yourself ?

Cheers toto

Slow !!!


Ed

[user=878]Gary[/user] wrote:

If you have a two wagons with Kadees fitted, push them over the magnet by hand and uncouple the two. You will find that one of the wagons (the one left sitting in the siding) will pull back over the magnet.



Cheers, Gary.

I've noticed the same when testing my Brian Kirby/Gormo(ised) setup Gary, but when being loco hauled.

I put it down to only testing with a couple of trucks and one loco with no weight in the trucks.

Don't know if that is a problem or not.



Ed

Hi Chaps,

I've not got as far as fitting the couplings yet …… Come on ……. Not that quick.

I will shunt it further up my priority list I promise and certainly before I look at covering up track beds etc.

I will need to decide which kind of wagons I will be using although I think it will be a mixture of box vans and small one or two plank wagons possibly.

Once the magnets are done I'll be back onto the embankment formation etc. all the wire in tube is complete so covering the embankment area is now a goer.

Any comments etc ….. Fire ahead

Cheers

Toto