Off at a tangent once more.

oooooooo that site could cost me some pennies, just for the chimneys alone.

Paul

Some nice items. I'll have another delve in.

Well,

The Highbridge Engineering and fabrication facility should spring to life quite successfully. I just ordered up a wee welder manny with working torches. just the job.

Toto

Hope you got smoke detectors fitted to the shed

Paul

And fire extinguishers it's actually a female welder ……… Joan.

[user=878]Gary[/user] wrote:

[user=1632]BCDR[/user] wrote:

UK wagons and Kadee under track or on the sleeper rectangular magnets have a bit of an incompatibility problem. Most UK wheel sets have steel axles, which plays havoc with delayed uncoupling as the wagon gets fixed over the magnet. North American freight cars have brass or plastic axles and do not have this problem. You might want to do some testing. I stopped using them because of this.

This is true, but if you choose to do what I have done, and that is adding 18 - 20 grams of weight (lead) to each wagon, this reduces the problem dramatically. If you are to use only the one magnet placed where I have shown, it will lessen the problem even more as you only have one point of uncoupling, as opposed to having magnets in each siding, which in reality isn't necessary. I have added weight to my wagons and uncoupling/axle attraction (using neodymium magnets) isn't an issue on either Linden Ford or Industry Lane.

It would be nice if 'someone' (ie Dapol, Hornby, Bachmann Eu.) manufactured wheel sets out of brass as they do on the US, Canadaian and Australian models. :thumbs 

Cheers, Gary.

Hi Gary,

Yes, I've tried that with a KD 308. No great difference, still issues with the delayed uncoupling. Put enough weight in and it does work because the axles do not turn and the wagon does not move.

I'm waiting for Kadee to come out with a coupler/solenoid that fits inside or under the coupler box of an HO diesel. Tony's Train Exchange did one (solenoid inside the body) some time ago, not very successful. I've seen various lash-ups using memory wire, and there are some expensive ones from Austria (Krois Modell) for HOe couplers, too pricey for me (10.95 Euro each).  Lots of stuff on the web which is interesting, but nothing that says this is the one. Meanwhile I'm going electromagnetically for the HO plank with a sliding arrangement underneath that allows various positions to be selected. More on that later in the year. Hand from the sky for the EM one as i may shift to chains and instanters.

Max must be chuckling at all of this, O-scale has it's advantages re space (and decouplers).

Nigel
Nigel

Hi Nigel,
Could it be that it works better with neodymium magnets as the total area of the neo magnets is 18mm in length (three sleeper gaps) compared to the 51mm of the Kadee 308..?? I have found with added weight, the 308 still pulls the wagons, whereas the neos' don't. Below is a pic of two wagons coupled using No.18s and the 308 magnet underneath. The axles are right on the very ends of the magnets.



Cheers, Gary.

On the coupling question again, see here
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=6277&forum_id=11&highlight=neodymium+dooferdog
The two magnets are far enough apart not to attract the steel axles, and once the staples are painted black they become less obvious.

Doug

Home.

No more screaming brats. Heaven. Got back to some shinnies from Hattons and other Aladdins caves.

I'll bung a post up later. Chilling out with a coffee after negotiating Edinburgh Airports baggage reclaiming hall. Absolute shambles and the time it takes. Farcicle for a supposed " international " airport.

Anyway …… Home now. That's it until December and then it's off to Poland for five days.

Cheers for now.

Toto

He's back, and so is the rain :roll:

The tidying up process is still underway, but must be getting close enough now for permitted visitors :lol:

Enjoy your shinies

Paul

I will do. One or two details for Highbridge. Also some Metcalfe brick packs, some building lights which will be hidden so not. Scale types. And a couple of other bits and bobs. Ahhhhhh …… Yes ……. Joan of arc welding fame arrived as well. Can't wait to get her flashing away.

Still, mumsies for dinner tonight ……. A big plate of stovies. Mmmmmmmm

Cheers

Toto

Better be careful, if mumsie finds Joan flashing you could be in serious troble, I know I wolud be.



Spent all that time building the traverser, now I'm busy covering it up. Will post progress piccies later on.

Paul

Hi Paul I'll look forward to seeing the finished item. Get cracking now

Cheers

Toto

Don't know how the above happened. Never mind. Returned from mumsies totally bagged up. Absolutely shattered so now lying in my bed trying to get my head back around what I intend doing tomorrow on Highbridge.

I'll be starting off by taking a step or three backwards but it will be worth the extra effort. I'll post up the progress pictures as I go as usual. Hoping for decent weather to enable me to work out doors again.

I'll keep you posted.

Cheers

Toto.

See what having a holiday does to you - self inflicted, nae sympathy

What backward steps you taking, I thought you were a full speed ahead type o guy :roll:

Paul

Hi Paul,

I'll be reworking the embankment land formation and also the bridge for work. You see the reason for it once I've done it. It should be much better.

Toto

Good morning campers.

Looking forward to making a start later this morning. I have a quick tip run I need to do to get rid of some domestic rubbish and a visit to the shops for some grease proof paper. Ahhhhhhh ……. Intriguing or wot.

I'm thinking that I could use the grease proof paper as a release agent. :hmm I will have areas of plaster bandage that will be meeting Metcalfe brick sheet and want a barrier between the two until the bandage sets. Once set, tear away the grease proof paper and there is no marks left on the brick work walling. ………. Terraaaaaaaaa. Well, I think it will work. That's the plan anyway.

The weather is looking favourable so far for working outside on the BBQ bench so fingers crossed. I'll post up any progress later.

Cheers

Toto

Or you can apply a spray of matte varnish to the models and seal them… ;-)

Cheers, Gary.

Hi Gary,

I'm sure I still have a can of Matt varnish spray  left over from another experiment that I had tried some time ago. I'll see if I can rake it out.

Cheers for now

Toto

Morning Toto

Test the spray on an unseen area first just incase it effects the inks.

Cling film can also be used as a barrier.

Paul