Off at a tangent once more.

[user=1505]toto[/user] wrote:

Hi I will have my I Pad with me to keep an eye on what's going on. Apparently our Mr Cameron is about to make an announcement about accepting another 10,000 refugees from the Syrian border. F@c£in marvellous. I tell you it will be the start of his undoing. People are fed up of this lark. We've got enough already.

So much for being tough on immigration. Suppose my taxes will be going up to pay for them as well.

Moan over.

Cheers

Toto

It ok Toto he give us the s*#t end of the stick So we down in the south west gave him some of ours lol :mrgreen:
Without a paddle: Camerons go surfing in water polluted with diluted sewage | David Cameron | The Guardian

Nice one ...... Only pissing on him directly could beat that.:thumbs

Well at least the UK, like other EU states complying with the directive, are accepting refugees from their own home borders, rather than the illegals making their way through Europe to sneak into the UK.

Apart from that, let's talk trains chaps and be happy with life,

Bill :)

WOT, another holiday Toto . . . enjoy :cheers

Hi Bill,

You are right…… No amount of moaning will change it.  Now …….. Class 37 in Colas that cheers me up but they ain't out yet. Hopefully for Warley. Also in DRS livery.

See happier already.

Cheers

Toto

Still waiting for my culverts. No phone call to say they've arrived. Booooo. I'm hoping they'll be there for me getting home. All part of the re shaping of Highbridge.

Cheers

Toto

Morning all,

I'm looking at positioning magnets for uncoupling. I have some small circular versions or I have the rectangular kadee version. I can't remember how many of the latter I have but I think it maybe just one that was bought for experimental purposes. I may be wrong.

I am presuming that they would be best placed at the head of each siding. Can anyone tell me if that would be the case. I had thought of introducing a very slight incline on each of the sidings. Just enough to let any disconnected wagons to run down a bit once uncoupled. A bit like a gravity system.

I think I will be using Gormo's staple system although I do have Kadee's available.

Any comments ideas welcome.

Hi Tom, hope you're enjoying Mallorca! his is what I used,



Check out the 'Forum contents' on Kadee's..:)

Cheers
Ron

Hi Ron,

Am I right in saying these are just small rectangular magnets.

Morning Toto

For Kadees, you need the North South poles pointing towards the rails, this causes the kadee actuators to pull outwards.
For the Tension lock + Staples (Gormo's) need the poles running verticle to pull the staple towrads the baseboard.

Kadee's and probably Gormo's require a straight and level piece of track to give reliable uncoupling, and more importantly remote spotting of wagans away from the magnet.

Of course a man of your resource and propensity for shiney gadgets, you always go for dcc loco fitted uncouplers

Couplings

Only £22.50 per end :shock:

Paul

Toto, have a good read of this re Kadee and magnets
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=8481&forum_id=6

G`day Toto,
The boys are right !!!!…..you need a level section of track for the uncoupling area. If the area is sited on an incline the wagon will be pulling away from the loco and therefore exerting pressure on the coupling and won`t release.
If you have a choice of couplings you will find the Kadees more versatile than tension locks and they also look better. Once your Kadees have released over the magnet you can also shunt the wagons further along the siding without the couplings re-connecting.
Obviously you have to fit each wagon and loco with the Kadees but I think you will find it`s no more difficult than fiddling about with staples on the tension locks.
There is a height gauge available to ensure each Kadee is fitted to the correct height for any of it`s neighbours.

:cheers  Gormo

Toto,

All your three sidings can be uncoupled at the one position shown below. Because of the delayed uncoupling of Kadees, you can stop over the top of the magnets, uncouple, back-up slightly to allow the couplers to move to maximum opening, then move foward and shunt which ever wagons need positioning in the particular siding.



Hope this helps. :thumbs

Cheers, Gary.

Hi chaps,

Thanks for that. I do have the Kadee 308 as Gary suggested and the ply is thick enough to sink it into. I am also going to position a kick back siding probably starting around the same place. This is a siding to store the resident shunter.. It will just be a short siding.

I'll keep the track level and abandon the gravity idea.as you say the Kadee's allow for a push prior to re engaging.

I also have the height gauge so I can have a go at fitting out a couple of my shunters.

I am assuming ( as Perry said ) that the 308 magnet has a strong enough magnetic field to operate through ballast etc. if that's the case I can fit it out when I alter the track work even though my loco's are not fitted out yet.

Cheers.

Toto. more reading then

Thanks Sol,

I'm wading my way through it. :lol:

Cheers

Toto

[user=1505]toto[/user] wrote:

Morning all,

I'm looking at positioning magnets for uncoupling. I have some small circular versions or I have the rectangular kadee version. I can't remember how many of the latter I have but I think it maybe just one that was bought for experimental purposes. I may be wrong.

I am presuming that they would be best placed at the head of each siding. Can anyone tell me if that would be the case. I had thought of introducing a very slight incline on each of the sidings. Just enough to let any disconnected wagons to run down a bit once uncoupled. A bit like a gravity system.

I think I will be using Gormo's staple system although I do have Kadee's available.

Any comments ideas welcome.

Hi Tom,

UK wagons and Kadee under track or on the sleeper rectangular magnets have a bit of an incompatibility problem. Most UK wheel sets have steel axles, which plays havoc with delayed uncoupling as the wagon gets fixed over the magnet. North American freight cars have brass or plastic axles and do not have this problem. You might want to do some testing. I stopped using them because of this.

Kadee's electromagnet is a 1960's design and shows it, the new one from Rapido is much neater, smaller, goes under the track, and can be DCC accessory controlled. I've seen it working, excellent. Shines a blue light up through the track to let you know it's on.  Activate delayed uncoupling, then switch it off. No more grabbing onto those steel axles. http://www.rapidotrains.com/railcrew.html

Rapido charge $22 CND each, if you go DIY then a circular 12v DC/0.25A electromagnet costs around $5-$8 CND, a blue LED and dropping resistor would be another $2 CND.  Amazon UK has them at around £2.90-£9.00. I'm investigating this as an option.

You might want to have several uncoupling points (DIY you could have them every 1" or so). You would need to work out what the likely uncoupling points would be, based on the traffic in and out and the size of the freight wagons (16' or 20'), and the length of the Kadee's you are using.

Sidings were generally lower than the main track, stopped errant wagons from running amok and removed the need for catch points. A drop of 2mm is sufficient (6").

Nigel

Nigel

[user=1632]BCDR[/user] wrote:

UK wagons and Kadee under track or on the sleeper rectangular magnets have a bit of an incompatibility problem. Most UK wheel sets have steel axles, which plays havoc with delayed uncoupling as the wagon gets fixed over the magnet. North American freight cars have brass or plastic axles and do not have this problem. You might want to do some testing. I stopped using them because of this.

This is true, but if you choose to do what I have done, and that is adding 18 - 20 grams of weight (lead) to each wagon, this reduces the problem dramatically. If you are to use only the one magnet placed where I have shown, it will lessen the problem even more as you only have one point of uncoupling, as opposed to having magnets in each siding, which in reality isn't necessary. I have added weight to my wagons and uncoupling/axle attraction (using neodymium magnets) isn't an issue on either Linden Ford or Industry Lane.

It would be nice if 'someone' (ie Dapol, Hornby, Bachmann Eu.) manufactured wheel sets out of brass as they do on the US, Canadaian and Australian models. :thumbs 

Cheers, Gary.

[user=878]Gary[/user] wrote:

It would be nice if 'someone' (ie Dapol, Hornby, Bachmann Eu.) manufactured wheel sets out of brass as they do on the US, Canadaian and Australian models. :thumbs 

Cheers, Gary.

Even the brass wheelsets that Bachmann have for the UK market  36-033, 36-034  still  use steel axles - as I found out to my disgust !!

Oh well,

Home again on Saturday. Having dinner at mumsies. I'll hopefully get a couple of hours in the shed on Saturday afternoon which I'll use to have a clean up.

That will give me a fresh start on Sunday. I'll be ripping a fair bit of the existing for work out in favour of something a bit lighter going in its place and with a couple of amendments to incorporate another couple of features.

Hopefully once I've done that it should be back on track again. I'll install the kadee magnet as well as I'm going and wire in the remaining track feeds and the track BUS.

I'll be using my Gaugemaster transformer that's currently doing nothing for a power source for the layout lights and gizzmo's etc so that's sorted. I have some Metcalfe brick sheets coming so I may try and scratch build a suitable frontage for my arched workshops that will go between the bridges. I will be on the hunt for some suitable etched brass doorways, windows and gates etc. if anyone knows of somewhere that does industrial type versions …… Let me know.

Cheers for now

Toto.

I will be on the hunt for some suitable etched brass doorways, windows and gates etc. if anyone knows of somewhere that does industrial type versions …… Let me know.

http://www.peediemodels.com/categories.php?cat=20

Just up the road from you, plus a bit of water, based on Orkney. He does etched, cast resin and 3D prints, he started with N gauge and has now started to do 00.

Have a look at the N gauge range, should give you some idea of what else is yet to come in 00.