00 Gauge - Maxmill Junction
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Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
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Universal Relay Switch-Gaugemaster-GM500 | Gaugemaster
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
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I hadn't seen the GM website but those downloads are a copy of the instruction leaflet enclosed with the product. My stumbling block was the fact that I couldn't get my head around the fact that the wires to the motor were also connected to the operating switch ………. I had to understand why the switch wouldn't operate the motor and ignore the GM500. Then the penny dropped - the unit was only changing frog polarity and had nothing to do with operating the motor !!
That's the problem I have with electronics - if I don't "understand" what's going on, I'm working totally blind. I am getting better at understanding - but only slowly ………………………. :oops: :oops: :oops:
'Petermac
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Cheers
John
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'Petermac
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It's taken some time to get to this point - firstly because unfortunately, the weather has been good so "outside jobs" took precedence. Who would have guessed that I would ever hope for inclement weather !! Partially, because we can't go anywhere, if it had been fine, I'd have had to do the jobs I don't want to do - that's why they're still "to do" - or Liz would have roped me in for things she can't do but I want to do even less than those jobs I don't want to do !!!
Secondly, the area around the point requiring the GM500 has 3 other surface mounted points, none of which require a change of frog polarity because they're insulfrog ponts. I decided to install all these motors at one go and run them from a 19.5v power supply unit but without a CDU. I therefore needed to construct a little switch panel for 4 centre off switches. Because the layout facia carries the copper tape "bus", the switches couldn't be facia mounted.
As we've got an orange weather warning in place for thunder storms and heavy rain, risk of localised flooding and hail stones today and tomorrow, here is what I made:
It's a small box sitting on the baseboard top at the edge and can be lifted sufficiently to access the switches. The wires pass through the baseboard underneath the box.
As I didn't use a CDU, I had no polarity issues with the GM500 - apparently polarity is important when connected to a CDU - and it also appears I hit lucky first time with the frog polarity. Reverse wiring would just have required swapping 2 wires over on the unit. The point changes perfectly as does frog polarity.
Would I buy this unit again ? Certainly. Simple to wire up although they are solder connections rather than having screw terminals but no messing about with micro switches. I'm a very happy bunny.
'Petermac
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I'll be the one who asks - where is "A"? :hmm
Do you need to put a building over/in front of this box of is it not obvious in normal operation?
Barry
Shed dweller, Softie Southerner and Meglomaniac
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Last edit: by Phil.c
Phil
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Phil - you're right. Point motors - in an ideal world, ought to be below the baseboard but, when I bought the unit, complete with layout, there were no motors - everything was hand powered. I could have left it like that but I'd have been rushing all over the place changing points. I relayed this side of the layout using electrofrog points powered mainly, by Tortoise motors. Typically, one point ended up bang on top of a fan of supporting timbers so the motor had to be surface mounted. There wasn't the space to mount one remote from the point so alongside it had to go.
A couple of them will be hidden under the future upper level, another I plan to hide under a duck-board type structure alongside the track but 1 will remain visible in the coal yard.
I have yet to examine the possibility of fitting motors to the other side of the unit. The problem is, in the main there are no holes drilled through the baseboard for operating rods Everything is ballasted and somehow, wired. (I have yet to discover exactly how it's wired !) Lifting the points to drill holes would effectively mean a complete rebuild in which case, it begs the question "why did I buy the thing in the first place" ?
I can live with the odd surface motor - I'll think of some way to disguise it - but I'm hoping the points on the other side might have holes ready drilled. I haven't been under the board on that side yet but I really don't want to have to rebuild the whole thing. Half the area will be hidden under the upper level but there were an awful lot of points on the layout when I bought it - certainly over 50 !!!
'Petermac
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I hope the weather isn't too bad…
Regards
Michael
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I have given some thought to disguising the switch panel "box" and might see if I can build 3 sides of a building around it so the trains won't be visually offended …………………..
'Petermac
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I dont know if its just me but I have found both versions of Pecos switches to be very unreliable. Before I was converted to Tortoises I used them throughout the storage yard. Over the years they have steadily either failed or malfunctioned…….I don't have a great back at the best of times ( And thats before moving all that topsoil:shock:) and I found it impossible to get down and re adjust or replace them….hence the variety of solutions I have employed.
Similarly when relaying/replacing or adding turnouts most times its just not practicable to Retro install underThe baseboard motors…..like you I resort to surface mounted….I guess they are not very prototypical and can look a bit obtrusive…..but at least they work! I do paint and weather mine and that seems to help.
I like the idea of a removeable building over the switchboard….particularly if you will be photographing in that area
Best wishes
John
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Legacy Member
With a larger layout for various reasons we sometimes have to make compromises.
The most important thing the point and motor work you are not building a layout for an exhibition its for your personal enjoyment so a visible point motor is far better than a damaged back.
Brian
OO gauge DCC ECOS Itrain 4 computer control system
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Just for the sake of clarity Peter, I meant that other than photos here, few people will see MY layout, so if I can live with my compromises (and bodges!) then I'm happy. Having seen pictures of your railway room arriving, you may well decide to put it on the back of a low loader and take it on tour :lol: :lol: :lol:You're right Michael - other than me, it's unlikely many will see the layout and I can pretend the motor isn't there !!!
I have given some thought to disguising the switch panel "box" and might see if I can build 3 sides of a building around it so the trains won't be visually offended …………………..
Regards
Michael
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Wasnie me, a big boy did it and ran away
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
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Phil
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Thank you Michael for the excellent idea - in these straightened times, one must explore all financial possibilities - heaven knows, I need the money - if only so I can pay someone to go under the baseboards and hide those bl##dy point motors…………………. :lol: :lol:
:cheers :cheers
'Petermac
Posted
Site staff

Wasnie me, a big boy did it and ran away
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
Posted
Full Member
I'm on my way over to help under the baseboard Peter, don't need paying, just make sure you have a good stock of red in :)Oh yes - it's so easy to mock the afflicted but beware - it could be your local car park I'm eyeing up at this very moment !!!
Thank you Michael for the excellent idea - in these straightened times, one must explore all financial possibilities - heaven knows, I need the money - if only so I can pay someone to go under the baseboards and hide those bl##dy point motors…………………. :lol: :lol:
:cheers :cheers
Phil
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The corkscrew is in my hand as I type Phil !! :cheers
'Petermac
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