Petermac's Railway

Petermac said

Phil.c said

It’s coming together Peter, if I were you I would concentrate on the track ballast etc. before sorting out buildings as the track is the main structure of any layout, get this to look right and you’re half way there  

From “Post #289,115”, 30th November 2023, 7:39 pm

You're right Phil - that's one of the things that shouted out from the photo that I'd sort of ignored whilst doing "other things".  All of what you see regarding ballast was already there from the original layout, I've just removed bits where I needed to and haven't got round to redoing it.  I did however, need to place that central structure before ballasting.  There are also several "edges" screaming out to be painted ………………..  

From “Post #289,117”, 30th November 2023, 10:48 pm

When you re-ballast Peter, don't make that big mistake of oversize ballast, I used N gauge, think of it this way, each stone should be roughly a little smaller than a figures fist, sometimes on a lot of layouts it's the size of the body!

Yes indeed Phil - I plan to use Woodland Scenics fine ballast - if I can stop the stuff blobbing up when I add the 50/50 PVA/water.

Last time I did any, I had awful problems with it, even after misting it with "wet water".  It just seemed to go into great blobs.  I think it's coconut shell or something similar.  Looks good when done properly but it is a learning curve.

I did once use the more common granite ballast but it seemed to be oversize and quickly went green - a reaction with the PVA I'm told ..................

Did you add washing up liquid or something to the PVA/Water mix Peter?

I know I have in the past  and it seems to bubble up and go into blobs.

I've also had the going green problem.

One reason why I thought it was a good idea to try Kato Unitrack this time round.


Ed

I did add washing up liquid Ed - it turns water into "wet" water………

Someone suggested IPA but that evaporates faster than you can get it out of the mister ….

Bet somebody's got a secret formula that works  


Ed

Try wetting the ballast first with a spray of just water and only add a tiny drop of washing up liquid the your PVA mix, I used to add the mix with an eye dropper but not straight on to the area between the sleepers but by the side of a rail so it would wash underneath.

On another thread, there was some talk about lift-up flaps etc. and the problems associated with lining up the trackwork.

I said I had a double level flap (across the doorway) with both levels on a curve - a difficult lift-up to align properly particularly as the framework on the main part of the layout isn't actually fixed to either the walls or the floor.  The track ends at both sides are soldered to some copper-clad plates which is then gapped to avoid a short

The lower level, double track, which will eventually become a canal scene, is hinged to the right and (almost) fixed in place by a slide bolt and latch fastener on the left.  Here it is in place awaiting the upper level flap:




The upper level (a viaduct) is hinged to the left and clips onto the rising trackwork on the right via a ball catch.  Strangely, this flap is quite easy to line up positively, presumably because the lower level is already in place.  This is a single track gently rising all the way around the unit to create sufficient clearance to access the storage sidings on the lower level.

This shot shows how the 2 levels "fold" over each other - a picture is worth a thousand words - although naturally, the lower level must be fixed in place before folding the upper level down.




This shot shows both flaps in position and, once I've correctly "jiggled" the left hand end of the lower level, works well (most of the time).



Marty, I think, suggested a removable section of track (which I used very successfully on Maxmill Mk1) but I'll need to find some set-track of the correct radii, or find some means of "fixing" a curve on flexitrack.  If I can find some, then I'll opt for that method of bridging the gap.



 

A very interesting project and what looks like a very workable solution. I guess scenics will have to be kept minimal in order for it all to work. Looking forward to seeing how it progresses. Lukily it is not something I have had to undertake on my layouts, so far anyway.

That's looking good Peter…clever stuff 

Thanks for showing the photos Peter, as you say, saves a thousand words.

I'm impressed with your solution to what was obviously a complex problem arranging for multi level tracks across an access bridge. Especially if it works most of the time!!
If you were to, maybe, slid a bit of cardboard under the flexitrack that you use as a connector peice over the gap, bend the flexi to the correct shape and then use CA (superglue) to bond the sleepers to the cardboard, that might keep the track radius that you need? You could also ballast the track so that it blends in better on the layout.

I like the canal basin there too.

Phil - coming from the master - that's either extremely kind or very tongue in cheek !! 

Marty - that's an excellent idea with the card base - I have both 1mm and 2mm card in stock so I'll definitely give it a try.  In theory, it should work well.    I'll report back. 

So…there's nothing holding you back now from finishing the layout,  I look forward to the pictures by the end of next week then ?  

Oooo…. them's fighting words Phill?!!

Grabbing my popcorn…

No pressure Marty  

Just playing catchup here Peter I must say I'm very impressed with the way you've solved that bridging problem.Ingenious!!!

Cheers,John.B.

The idea is considerably more impressive than the structure itself John ..........................

Peter,
       When you get around to tarting up the area with scenic work and brick papers/arches etc etc,you won't even notice the woodwork.Can't wait to see how you tackle it.

cheers,John.B.

That's kind John but I wish I had your faith ………………