00 Gauge - Maxmill Junction

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Petermac's Railway

You're jumping to too many conclusions Colin……. :mutley

I didn't actually say I had stocks of Slaters plasticard - in fact, I don't but thought maybe I could strip the current stuff off the card backing and re-use it.

Ordering anything  from UK now fills me with dread.  If it's not long Covid related delays it's post Brexit "guess the weight of the pig" VAT and customs charges at this end.  Sometimes they charge, sometimes they don't.  It seems to depend on the quality of last night's wine !  I've had declared £ 240 delivered with nothing to pay and declared £ 60 delivered with € 30 to pay !

I suppose the answer is to do what Brexit intended - forget Blighty and look for mainland suppliers in future.  It was so easy before ….. :sad:

'Petermac
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Hi Peter
Just catching up with the walling.  I feel a little guilty for mentioning the wood dye method of the late Allan Downes!  Your paining technique looks great - you should never have doubted yourself.  With regards to the card warping, John might be right about laminating two sheets of card - I'm sure that is one of the strengths of the Scalescenes construction methods.  MDF should work - it can warp if it absorbs liquid - but I have used it for the base of small scenes and it has been very good.  Initially I used foam board, but that warped pretty badly, although I know many modellers use it very successfully.  It may be another option for you.  I have also used wooden coffee stirrers to support the card which has kept my buildings secure…. but they are smaller areas than you walling.  But perhaps another option.  I tried retrofitting these to card which warped, but they were not strong enough to straighten things out, but if fitted at the start, things stayed nice and straight.  Just some thoughts.

Michael


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That retaining wall looks great to me Peter!

Phil
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Well now, after a few weeks of "other jobs", I'm finally finding some time to return to railway modelling.

The retaining walls in the recent shots didn't fare too well I'm afraid.  I'd used UHU to stick the Slaters sheets to 2mm card.  The card has warped badly so it had to come off !  :twisted:  A pity because I did like the effect.

I replaced one section with Scalescenes brick walling as used on the curved part and am now testing the plasticard stuck to 2mm card using just a couple of strips of double sided carpet tape.  Thus far, it seems OK.

This is the area I'm working on at present:



The "new" wall is slightly higher than the old one - I think they had some spare bricks …………. :???:    The brown MDF behind the wall is yet to be clad with further walling, covers the incline which will ultimately lead to the upper level, will have a "street scene" and town square as the scenic area and is removable in sections to allow access to the hidden track.  The half built row of cottages you see were very kindly designed and laser cut by DaveH-Mercia to exactly fit the slope on the MDF section.



The running lines are on the left of this shot with the shed roads to the right.  I'm planning to run a lane just to the right of the green bit for access to the shed.  The running lines and shed roads will be separated by a post and rail fence.  Obviously lots of ballasting to do but the running lines seen in the shot have all been relaid - twice !!!  In addition, I find it very difficult to cut the operating wire for the points at just the right length.  Too long and they stick up as the one seen here on the mid left.  Too short and they pop out of the tie bar when setting the point one way or the other.  The points here are servo operated so it's something to do with the motor not being perfectly centred when I fit it.  As it's under the baseboard, it's a rewal pig to access !!   I'm actually thinking of mounting future servos under the boards but to the side and have a short connecting wire running along the baseboard surface from the servo arm to the tie bar…………… :roll: 

 

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Hi Peter

You mentioned elsewhere how strange it was to read about Granby - I find it equally surreal every time I read your Maxmill thread and am reminded of the very pleasant day we spent together almost three years ago - come to think of it I first saw that pannier on the original Maxmill in 2013 - how time flies

I am so sorry that your Slaters wall de-laminated. It has happened to me a few times and it is so frustrating. McPeters dairy was constructed using that method but it took forever involving multiple subsequent applications of super glue inserted between the separated areas and then clamped for 24 hours.

If you are minded to try again I would suggest that the base consists of two sheets of 2mm card laminated together (you can use PVA white glue for this but it should be two sheets. A 4mm sheet tends to bow more).

I then used liberal applications of super glue to stick the plastic sheet to the card base. Uhu/PVA invariably seems to separate. Once the sheet is presented to the base you need masses of weight - think collected works of Shakespeare rather than a flimsy paperback - and leave for 24 hours.

I do like the way that shed area is developing so I hope you can fix the wall

Good Luck

John
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Thanks for your tips on glueing plasticard to cardboard John.  :thumbs
I'll certainly give that a try, I'm guessing my carpet tape will eventually lose it's "stickability" ………… :hmm  I don't actually have Shakespeare's complete works but those I do have are quite weighty.   I wonder if Gibbon's "Decline and Fall" might suffice - there are 6 volumes ………….:lol:

I was going to try using 5mm MDF as the structural backing but will also try the double thickness card and see which works best.

In passing - have you seen the latest prices for Slaters embossed plasticard ?  :shock:

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[user=6]Petermac[/user] wrote:
In passing - have you seen the latest prices for Slaters embossed plasticard ?  :shock:
they haven't changed since my order of 2021. Current prices from their website.£2.75 ex tax for embossed sheet,

Are those higher than you were expecting? I had no frame of reference when buying mine.

Colin

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I was offered some when I was in UK recently Colin - £4.95 a sheet !!

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Ouch! But then perhaps you chose not to buy from that source.

I got mine direct from Slaters, all my projected needs in one big order  :roll:.

Colin



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Spot on Colin - I didn't buy.


The problem now will be delivery charges to France regardless of where I buy it ……….

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Just for information I have always found that when laminating materials you need to have an odd number of layers to counteract warping, its the reason why plywood comes in odd number layers.

If I am applying a scalescenes texture to a single thickness of card I either apply plain paper to the back or an interior texture.

Cheers

Andy
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  Thanks Andy, a good call. It’s known as a balancing veneer and is particularly important with joinery manufacture to avoid warping of expensive items of furniture, principally with interior shopfitting from my own experience.
   
  The same principle applies equally with our modelmaking to prevent the core structure wandering waywardly!
   
  Bon courage Peter,
   
  As a side note, I've recently received a £70 Modelu order, net of VAT of little people and assorted equipment and yet had to pay a surprising 26€ to our postman before he could hand them over. I source a great deal of supplies from EU countries now, as well as using Hattons trunk service, which is always delivered without VAT, customs or admin charges. Unfortunately, I appreciate the realism of Modelu products too much to allow Brexit taxes to remove that enjoyment from my railway, so will grudgingly need to pay the additional charges until the railway is finally completed, which of course, it never really will be!
   
  Enjoy all you can, oh and live long and prosper and thanks for all the fish!
   
  Bill
  

At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born :)
 
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Good point Andy and probably correct too.  I may have to use 3 layers of card to avoid the problem but then it does rather question which would be better - 5mm MDF or triple card, even if I used 1mm instead of 2mm.  The idea of cutting out 3 layers of card to exact dimensions doesn't fill me with joy …………………. :roll:

Interesting that you source your supplies from within the EU Bill - whilst you did point me towards Passion 132 for paints, trawling the net hasn't thrown up the type of shops we used to enjoy in UK for me yet.    :hmm

Regarding Hattons - is their "trunk" service really net of VAT ?  Whenever I've ordered from them, I've paid UK VAT, postage but no further charges at this end.  Not sure how they do it but they seem to have got it sorted.  I've never used their trunk service but, if it is net of VAT, it would certainly be worth a look.



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I use Hattons trunk service fairly often  :roll:  It is definitelly nett of VAT for me.:lol:
 Going back to your wall - if there are no intricate cuts/ join , as in a Scalescene project, then I think 5 mm mdf is the way to go.



John
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[user=1814]Longchap[/user] wrote:
 Thanks Andy, a good call. It’s known as a balancing veneer and is particularly important with joinery manufacture to avoid warping of expensive items of furniture, principally with interior shopfitting from my own experience.
 
The same principle applies equally with our modelmaking to prevent the core structure wandering waywardly!
 
Bon courage Peter,
 
As a side note, I've recently received a £70 Modelu order, net of VAT of little people and assorted equipment and yet had to pay a surprising 26€ to our postman before he could hand them over. I source a great deal of supplies from EU countries now, as well as using Hattons trunk service, which is always delivered without VAT, customs or admin charges. Unfortunately, I appreciate the realism of Modelu products too much to allow Brexit taxes to remove that enjoyment from my railway, so will grudgingly need to pay the additional charges until the railway is finally completed, which of course, it never really will be!
 
Enjoy all you can, oh and live long and prosper and thanks for all the fish!
 
Bill
Hi Bill

I think Modelu now have a French stockisr - might be worth checking out

Best wishes

John
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Looks like EU orders will have VAT charged. Presumably there is an accounting between EU countries and the UK. Essentially the same as pre-B.

My orders are VAT-free from Hattons. I still get hit occasionally with import duties and Virginia tax (6%). I usually pay Virginia tax for anything coming from the other states anyway. 


Luckily there are several UK specialist model shops here, as well as plenty of s/h  Bachmann/Hornby/Lima doing the rounds. Plastic sheets of brick, etc. is highly problematic. I use HO supplies and ignore the difference. 


The last time I used a lot of brick sheet I used 3M spray contact adhesive after keying the surfaces. You only get one try at putting it in place. Minimal risk of solvent warping.


Nigel




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I print scalescenes brick, stone and other textures onto self adhsive A4 label stock  (1 label A4 size) which can then be stuck to card, MDF or wood.

https://www.labelplanet.co.uk/square-cut-labels/lp1-210h/

Cheers MIKE
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Just had a look at Slater's home site and yes, it is cheaper than the price I was recently quoted by a UK retailer and yes, they will deliver to Mainland Europe.

Their minimum order for doing so since Brexit is £140 !!!

Nuff said !  :hmm

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[user=6]Petermac[/user] wrote:
Regarding Hattons - is their "trunk" service really net of VAT ?  Whenever I've ordered from them, I've paid UK VAT, postage but no further charges at this end.  Not sure how they do it but they seem to have got it sorted.  I've never used their trunk service but, if it is net of VAT, it would certainly be worth a look.
Hi Peter,

I use Hattons’ trunk service, pay VAT (unlike John) and have the items shipped to France periodically, or when when needed for a modelling project, which seems to avoid the kafuffle with additional costs. This has always worked for me so far, with no additional customs or admin charges. VAT is paid to Hattons, but not charged by the French authorities.   
The following information is from an email I received from Hattons:
 
With regards to the VAT for this order, we are part of the IOSS scheme, meaning any order over â‚¬150 to France are shipped out DDP (Delivered Duties Paid), meaning as standard we charge VAT on this order at checkout, and you should not be charged VAT when the order arrives into France. Should you be charged any VAT related charges, do send us the invoice and we can get these refunded back to you, but please note we cannot cover any customs fees/handling charges as these are nothing to do with VAT. For more information on this scheme, please visit the link below:
 
Duty on orders to EU member countries/states - from Hattons Model Railways

Hope it's working well for you as well.
  
Best,
 
Bill


 

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At 6'4'', Bill is a tall chap, then again, when horizontal he is rather long and people often used to trip over him! . . . and so a nickname was born :)
 
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Good Heaven s - it's over a year since I posted anything here.  I have posted bits elsewhere but have had a trying time over the last few months, some annoying problems with Maxmill lead to my largely losing my mojo and in fact, coming close to tearing the whole thing up and starting again !!

However, as with most things dramatical, such thoughts passed and I rekindled most of my desire to Keep Calm and Carry On ………………

Summer is not the best time to work on the layout - whilst my cabin is air conditioned, other things usually take priority (in the form of "lists from 'er indoors) ……………….

Over the last few weeks, or was it months, I've been searching for an iliusive and intermittent short circuit.  The darned thing eventually ceased to be intermittent and shut the whole layout down.  Such faults can be so very infuriating !

I cleared the track of all stock, searched every millimetre of it for tools left behind, any errant track pins, bits of conductive dust etc. etc.  Checked all stock for anything stuck between the wheels, couplings that might make contact with both rails and every joint in the spider's web of wiring under the baseboards.  Those who know me will realise getting under my baseboards is no mean feat but getting upright again is nigh on impossible !!  I even disconnected all wiring done since the short began checking polarity as necessary and any broken points or dodgy point motors.  It took forever and sorely tried my patience evoking language I hadn't heard since rugby days at school.  All to no avail.  That blasted red light on my Lenz Command Station just constantly winked at me !!

Frustration regularly moved me on to other bits and pieces around the layout, some more productive than flashing red lights and others simply for a change of scenery plus a much greater willingness to tackle "her lists" even if only to regain my sanity.

By chance, one of the "other jobs" was to tidy up some bits I'd piled in a clear space near the turntable, some spare people I'd removed, bits of trackside fencing, a broken Ratio signal and other bits and bobs.  Whilst doing so, I decided to give the turntable well a good clean and suddenly, the short disappeared …………………

It turns out that a couple of the exit tracks are very close together and can short under the copings if the turntable is moved within its baseboard cutout.  It's an early Fleischmann turntable designed for use with the Marklin 3 rail stud system and I'm guessing either the tongues or slots the feeder tracks clip into have worn over the years to allow very slight lateral movement.  It's only slight - not really visible but obviously enough for the rail mountings to touch underneath.

What a relief - after all this time, tears and sweat, just a simple very tiny movement is enough to short it out.

The really annoying part is, John Dew suggested I should break the layout down into power districts, isolating each with a circuit breaker.  I did this on Maxmill Mk 1 but the circuit breakers are currently sitting in a drawer unused on Maxmill Mk 2 

Here's the offending turntable.  the short occured where the rails are close together adjacent to the cabin but underneath so out of sight.





 

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