Thanks, Rick.  It will certainly add some grime after I get the black paint on.

I'm planning to use the Krylon on the plastic Bettendorf bogie frames, so the powders will definitely stick.

[user=269]MaxSouthOz[/user] wrote:

Given that that/they is/are the electrical pathways, I would have to agree with you, Brendan.   :cool:

Bachmann stupidly did it on some of their US diesel wheels for a time. So when the compound breaks down.. Yeah.

[user=269]MaxSouthOz[/user] wrote:

Found it in Sydney.

A$17.50 for the can   A$12.50 for freight.

Just tried the Krylon on the wheels.  It scratches off with a finger nail.

Back to the drawing board.

How about using gun blue/black on the wheels Max?  I was just reading an article by Martyn Welch in a recent MRJ where he uses it on loco wheels.  He says that the stuff provides a key for paint, a bit like primer.  I noticed the same using chemical black.

John

Yes.  It's one idea I'm thinking about, John.

I have a can of etch primer already, so I might give that a  go.

Yes Max, I was priming steam loco wheels before changing over to 0.  It seems most people are content to simply slap paint over bare metal.  I have a lovely pro built loco that has a lot of bright spots on the wheels where the paint flaked.

John

:lol:  I recognise the phenomenon, John.

OK.  So the etch primer scratches off.   :???:

I might try a gun shop for some gun blue.  The wheels are claimed to be nickel silver, but they look more like chrome plated brass to me.

I don't think that even gun blue will work with chrome.

Here's a tip Max, stop scratching your wheels with your fingernail.   :roll:

John

Thanks, John.  Unfortunately when I pull the masking tape off, it pulls the paint off the wheels.

I've gone over the sides of the tyres with my finger nail.  That leaves the dished part of the wheel protected from being touched.  Even the lightest touch with anything, and the paint flakes off.

I've temporarily assembled the trucks and they don't look too bad.  I'm going to have to move on soon.

I'm going to start a thread on the Galveston Island Trolley, so photos will be there.

Here's a shot of the trucks.



I have actually considered filing the chrome plating off and painting the brass underneath.

Masking tape?   :hmm I've had paint come off van bodies certainly.  :twisted:

…but I don't mask the wheels, I spray the whole thing.  When the paint is dry I scrape paint off the tyre with a curved Xacto blade and finish by polishing with a fiberglass pen.  This seems to work for me.

I will check out your thread.

John

Just the slightest touch is enough to dislodge the paint.  Between each attempt, I have removed the paint to get back to the base metal.  Just a quick rub with my fingernail and it falls off.

That's no good for me, as when I'm re-railing the tram, the heads of the rails will knock the paint off the side of the tyres.

I have written to Professor Jon Bell who was very helpful during my research on the trolleys, asking for permission to use his photos in the thread.

Galveston Island Trolley

I'm hopeful that he will agree.

Sounds like a nuisance Max.  I think all the wheels I have used are either steel or NS.  Filing the front face of the wheels sounds like a plan.  If the base metal is brass then you can use a blackening agent.

John

I use artists oil paints on my rolling stock wheels, I find its the only thing that will stay put.

I like my wagon wheels to look rusty so use a brown mix then sprinkle on weathering powders while the oil paint is still wet to get texture.

It takes 3-4 days to fully dry though.

I have been experimenting with permanent marker on a couple of wagons with reasonable results. Admittedly I haven't given them any sort of running but it doesn't rub or flake off with the finger nail which is a start.
When I have more time I am another user of Birchwood Casey gun blue. One tip that I picked up is warm the wheels when you apply the gun blue it seems to go on with a better finish. - I have taken to scrubbing them in hot water and then taking them straight out and applying the blue with a cotton bud to get a good finish.

Late to this, but I have heard about (but never used) 'Promarkers' by Lettraset as a panacea. A sort of posh fibre-tip pen, I understand.
Good luck,
Doug

MaxSouthOz wrote:

MaxSouthOz wrote:

Found it in Sydney.

A$17.50 for the can   A$12.50 for freight.

Just tried the Krylon on the wheels.  It scratches off with a finger nail.
Back to the drawing board.

Hi Max,
You did degrease and key the shiny bits before going in with the Krylon? Plus give it at least 24-48 hours to harden-up?

From your later posts it seems that the wheels will get knocked around. Even cold blackening will come off with that. 

Nigel

Hi Nigel

Yes.  I actually scraped the wheels each time before re-painting -  BUT  I finally read the fine print on the can.

Chip resistant after 7 DAYS   :oops:   :lol: