I've heard you guys talking about blackening wheels, but I stupidly didn't make a note of what you used.

I've got two SPUDS for my up coming O scale tram project, and they have shiny nickel silver wheels.

What is your recommendation?

Cheers

Hi Max,

Good question, as there are several chemical blackeners out there, all of which need a degree of caution in their use (corrosive and poisonous) and I need some for brass, so hopefully someone will have a recommendation soon.

For any ferrous metals, I've got Birchwood Casey's 'Super Blue' which is a liquid gun blueing agent. Very deepest of blue black and works quickly, but not on stainless.

Watching and waiting for an easy to use and therefore safe solution (pun not intended, but not bad).

Bill

I see Birchwood Casey also make 'Brass Black' which should do exactly what it says on the tin.

https://www.birchwoodcasey.com/Refinishing/Metal-Finishing/Brass-Black-Touch-Up.aspx

Has anyone got experience of this product?

Bill

Selenium Dioxide is the active ingredient Max, comes from Carrs and C&L as Metal Black for…(Brass, Nickel Silver, Steel).  C&L only ship chemicals by courier however.  My local hobby shop stocks a couple of American brands:  Blacken It by A-West and Rail Weathering Solution from Micro Engineering.

I bought some gun blue over the weekend so I'll give that a go at some point.

Wheels are never black from what I've seen, more of a rusty, grimy, black, so after blackening I paint them.

John

Hi Max,

"Blacken-IT" from A-West. Gives a very dark-not quite black grey color. I use it for P/B handrails/grabs, not for wheels.

In your case I would think Midas "Black Max" would be the one to use.

This is cold blackening, based on selenium chemistry and an oxidation reaction. Works on most metals but not stainless steel, which doesn't oxidize, or aluminum (aluminium), where the surface is already oxidized. Not permanent, it will rub off over time. Looks better oiled. Dangerous stuff, my bottle has the on the label a skull and cross-bones and POISON. Use with care and caution.

Nickel silver is a copper-nickel-zinc alloy, and usually responds well (and from memory a bit slower than brass or iron/steel). Best if you can dunk it in the solution. And it needs to be clean and grease-free.

I came across a site with various recipes for different colors based on widely differing chemistries - how about deep rust red?

SPUDS - NWSL?

Nigel

Thanks, guys.

It all sounds a bit nasty.  The self propelled universal drives (SPUDS), are Black Beetles from Steam Era Models.

I'm not sure if I want to take the wheels off, as they are pressed on.  I'll have a look around to source something.

Cheers

Hi max,

B-B's, I wouldn't take the wheels off, tricky to get them back on (and stay on, voice of experience here). Nice SPUDS though.

I don't use selenium bluing/blackening for wheels, only wires. Roughen-up with 800 emery (do it while rotating them) followed by rattle can red oxide primer then by rust brown would be my choice. Lot more permanent than selenium treatments.

Nigel

Max, if you've had a chance to look at the Dapol wagons I weathered, the wheels were treated as follows:

1)  Chemical black, but I have also used Metal Primer on other wheels.  You just have to work a bit harder to clean up the tyres.

2)  Paint grungy rust/dirt/black (I mix my own)

3)  There'll be overspray from the airbrush weathering, I leave that.

4)  When using weathering powder I rub in some rust and black powder onto the wheels.

5)  Final polish of the tyres with a fiber pen.

Everyone has their own way to do this, as long as you like the end result it's right.

John

Thanks, guys.

The main thing is that the sides of the wheels don't shine out from under the tram.

All taken aboard.   :thumbs

Thanks, Terry.

I hadn't thought of that.   :cool:

Hi Max, Terry,

On metal it dries iridescent blue/black. Rattle can matt black is, well, black. Camouflage dark brown (which is also matt so it doesn't scare the critters away) gives a good representation of a rusty and grimy wheel. Krylon Camo range is "Ultraflat" (more critters!), doesn't need a primer, stick to metal, and comes in a range of browns. I'm using it more and more.

Nigel

Thanks, Nigel.

Krylon.  I'll look it up.

Krylon cannot be sent by Australia Post.

I'll have to look for a local supplier.

Found it!  "The Kit Bag" out in Pommieville (Elizabeth).

It's about half way to Sol's.  They won't post deliver this stuff - courier only, so I'll have to go and get it.

Better ring them first.   :lol:

That was a good idea.

Nil stock.

Found it in Sydney.

A$17.50 for the can   A$12.50 for freight.

Just make sure you only get the face of the wheel and not the back or tread. Blackening the tread is a bad idea in my experience.

Late to the party as ever but …..

 I do my wheels with a mix of weathering powders applied with a wet brush.  The effect is to turn the powder momentarily to liquid which dries more or less upon contact with the metal.

As this process seems to convert the powder into a film I don't have any trouble with it getting where it shouldn't nor rubbing off.  It also dries flat and, if applied thickly, can be used to represent the caking of dirt seen occasionally on (typically) freight wagons or locos which spend time fussing about in a muddy yard.

The process has been used on this Heljan class 52 which sports replacement Howes wheels

Given that that/they is/are the electrical pathways, I would have to agree with you, Brendan.   :cool: