Using neodymium magnets between the sleepers

Dave, type this into Google
"flexible magnetic strip"     double quotes included.

[user=606]Sol[/user] wrote:

Dave, type this into Google
"flexible magnetic strip"     double quotes included.

Thanks Sol

Sol.
I found these magnets easy to stop at I think because they're in one piece & concentrated rather than three separate magnets. I tried two end to end but found it was a bit to much.Also since they're only 2.5mm thick which as i said is the thickness of a sleeper in Peco code 100 rail they don't need to be above sleeper height.

Hi Dave.
This is where I got all my magnets. They have a huge selection.
Magnets at Guys Magnets
I think the flexible strip magnets are made for sticking decorations on fridges etc. They have adhesive on one side but they weren't strong enough for what I wanted.

That's a good link Tony. It has gone straight into the Forum Equipment Index. Cheers.

Today, after doing some track wiring changes, I had to run a goods train through the area in which I had previously installed a set of these magnets ,to confirm all was electrically OK .

I found that there was a very slight grade right at the set of magnets & the last wagon, if not too heavy or has very free running wheels, tends to bunch up & uncouple automatically.  

 So this means that track must be level for at least 6-8 inches/150-200mm where magnets are going to be located.

 I can only assume, the normal operator runs them faster than what I was doing, than step 1 on my DCC controller.

Of course, any jerking by locos must be avoided.

[user=0]Sol[/user] wrote:

DOH, yes - C&L steel rail, not nickel silver, used on parts of my layout as handlaid on PCB so I will have to provide some spacers to keep the magnets central until glue dries. I am not sure how these magnets & associated rails will be magnetically  ( is that a good technical wordquest:) in time.

So anyone using old  track that maybe plated steel, be aware of this small problem.

 
 

This quote of mine of many moons ago ,
 well yesterday, I installed another set of magnets in & this time, the rail was the C&L steel and while I followed the previous method of installing, I found that the steel tended to negate the magnetic effect so I had to raise the magnets above sleeper level to almost near the top of the rails.

It works so I an still happy with them.

Perry, hope the magnets are still working OK, do you have a link to the supplier you used please??

Cheers
Ron

Ron, 
There are some links in the page above to some magnet suppliers, they may still be valid even though a little old. Is that enough or are you particularly after the link for the ones Perry used?

cheers
Marty

Thanks Marty, I was looking for the exact one's he used but after 'wading' through 15 pages of magnets I gave up! Think I'll order some Kadee ones, just want to try them on some couplings i was given!

Cheers
Ron

I have tried some magnets on mine, however I think the magnets are to powerful as it uncoupled great however one loco stopped on the magnets and a couple of wagons clearly slowed going over the magnet.

Thanks for that Jimmy, do you belong to any local model railway clubs? You're only down the road from me after all!

Cheers

Ron

[user=981]jimmy styles[/user] wrote:

I have tried some magnets on mine, however I think the magnets are to powerful as it uncoupled great however one loco stopped on the magnets and a couple of wagons clearly slowed going over the magnet.

That is due to the metal axles of Hornby and Bachmann rollingstock. I use the neodymium magnets (3mm cubed) on Linden Ford, and I can see that the wagons axles are attracted to the magnets, and that is with adding extra weight to the individual wagons. Total weight of a wagon is up around 50 grams…

Cheers, Gary.

[user=17]Perry[/user] wrote:

[user=465]Stubby47[/user] wrote:

Perry, can I ask why you need a row of 5 across the track ?

I can understand why you need multiple rows along the track, but do the magents increase in strength if there are more of them ?

Would the magnets work as well if you only used the outer ones of each row ?

Stu

 

I tried multiple configurations and found this to be the most effective.

Sol also tried other ways of doing it, but I believe he also settled on the three rows of five.

I think leaving a gap shows the 'wrong pole' of the magnet to the coupling dropper and it gets confused! :shock:

Perhaps this diagram will illustrate what I mean:



With the 5 magnets in a row, the droppers are attracted to the extreme ends, giving full deflection.

With the two magnets (or even two pairs with a gap in the middle) you can see that the droppers would not be deflected sufficiently to cause positive uncoupling actions. They would be attracted to the 'inner' north and south poles, rather than the ones at the outsides.

I don't know if I've got the science right, but after lots of testing, the rows of five seemed to work best for me.

Perry

As a result of a question on another topic that Toto is interested in, I tried a single 3mm cube magnet, no good & then even three singles separated by sleepers & still no good so I thought I would read Perry's topic again and found the above.

So that is why we found the 5 are needed & by having at least 3 sets of 5 , give a bit of tolerance in where to stop for the actual uncoupling.

Do you still have problems with the magnets attracting the metal axles Sol ?  I wonder if it's the same with the Kadee above board plate magnets ………….:roll::roll::roll:

I'm slowly (ever so slowly) changing over to Kadees but haven't fitted any magnets yet. ;-)

The problem exists with any magnets & steel wheels & axles Peter.  Brass wheels & extra weight helps to reduce attraction.
Of course Kadee wheels are not affected as their metal wheels & axles are non- magnetic. Steam Era wheels in OZ are also non-magnetic but their UK range is very limited.

Ah yes, I didn't think about Kadee having non-magnetic wheels.  As I don't yet have any magnets, I haven't hit any problems - but then, nor can I uncouple automatically …………….:roll::roll:

Maybe there is a downside (as well as the cost) to Kadees afterall …………………I always thought they seemed too good to be true :hmm

Bachmann UK is unusual as well, brass wheels but with steel axles !!

Hi Ron.   When you mentioned British Stock, it got my attention. As you may know? I have been trying to utilise Bachmann Branchline stock on my "Long Overdue" shunting puzzle( at least it is ptrototypical). I began with a staple glued to the tension lock dropper, and one magnet let in to a piece of board, completely under the track in the centre of the track, which did work surprisingly well . But with the uncertainty of the droppers, which had been falling off, I thought that it would be better to go for Kadee? I prefer Kadee for the ability to push (loose shunt, that will be okay on my railway) an uncoupled wagon further along the line, without coupling up again. But I have not had the Knowhow to adapt a Bachmann (wired for sound Loco) or found the easiest way to adapt a  Bachmann wagon, ie screw, glue, or what ever?
I suppose if I was that desperate the easiest option would be to go US stock
but that would go against the grain! all the best. Kevin

Hi Perry.    When I tried 5 x 3mm cube Neodymium magnets the pin got attached to the magnet. I don't know which code track you are using, but I'm using code 75 . I have tested the coupler against the gauge and it is okay.
Please advise.  Kevin