Kadee magnetic uncoupling
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Using neodymium magnets between the sleepers
[user=606]Sol[/user] wrote:Peter, re Perry's thread - I added to that as well & I use Code 75 & 3mm cube rare earth neodymium magnets between the rails.
Thanks Sol - I knew I should have re-read it before I posted my question ……………….. :oops: :oops: :oops:
'Petermac
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Here are a couple of mine Peter and they work perfectly in N scale:-
Ken
'It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that Swing'
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http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=6277&forum_id=11&highlight=uncoupling+dooferdog
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"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin
In the land of the slap-dash and implausible, mediocrity is king
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Here are a couple of mine Peter and they work perfectly in N scale:-KenThat looks very neat Ken - and totally unobtrusive. How many magnets did you use - looks like 4 but smaller than 3mm ……….. :hmm
'Petermac
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Replacing the wheelsets is not an option so I'm still worried that these magnets may be too strong. They do seem to throw up as many problems as they solve……………….. :roll:
I'm pretty sure I read an article where they'd used rectangular rare earth magnets, mounted outside the rails, one each side. Apparently, they worked well but I have no idea where I saw the article so don't know the size of them …………. :roll:
I know you have UK outline stock John (Dew), presumably with metal wheelsets, and with RR&Co installed, it's vital that the Kadees work properly. Have you stuck with Kadee's own magnets John and if so, which ones ?
'Petermac
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I am going to spend the weekend running some experiments on my newly converted kadee stock. I did a sort of pre test on a wagon with steel wheels and a steel weight and it was definitely a problem. But I am thinking of putting the magnets underneath the sleepers, to reduce their pulling power. Easy for me as the track isn't laid. I think there are some experiments to be done with the number of magnets and their positioning too. My head of physics at school suggested staggering them. That is, three magnets beneath or between one sleeper and to one side, and then three on the other side, a sleeper further along. He went into the physics of the magnetic fields, but I started to glaze over….. I will happily share any results, good or bad. Apparently, if they are staggered, it will be worth experimenting with the poles too, so I fear there might be a lot of combinations to test. And, apparently, different magnetic substances create different magnetic fields, which he quickly demonstrated with iron filings. So it is also worth checking what the magnetic field of the rare earth magnets actually looks like as this may influence how we place them.
So maybe more experiments than just this weekend!
Regards
Michael
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Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
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Regards
Michael
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That's good to hear Sol but I'd assumed you'd changed your wheel sets for those from Steam Era …………….. :hmm
Whilst thinking about it all, I wonder if anyone has tried sets of 2 x 3mm cubes outside either side of the rails. Obviously polarity would be important but that would be easily determined by splitting blocks just as in the "between the rails" method. Maybe they'd be too far away from the coupling…………………. :hmm
'Petermac
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Also a link to a simular Topic by Chubber :- Uncoupling with Neodymium Magnets
And some posts by Ed with useful info :- Ed's posts on using magnets
Cheers
Matt
Wasnie me, a big boy did it and ran away
"Why did you volunteer ? I didn't Sir, the other three stepped backwards"
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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[user=34]Ken[/user] wrote:Here are a couple of mine Peter and they work perfectly in N scale:-KenThat looks very neat Ken - and totally unobtrusive. How many magnets did you use - looks like 4 but smaller than 3mm ……….. :hmm
No, only 2 Peter and they are 5mm long (1 on each track between the sleepers just to the right of the rail break). Incidentally they also work perfectly underneath my Quayside paved surface which is at rail top height.
Ken.
Last edit: by Ken
'It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that Swing'
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Apologies for the delayed replyknow you have UK outline stock John (Dew), presumably with metal wheelsets, and with RR&Co installed, it's vital that the Kadees work properly. Have you stuck with Kadee's own magnets John and if so, which ones ?
I use the "Delayed between the rails" Code 100…….in abundance :oops:
Here are a few in use at your dairy
This actually an action shot……there is one under the Pannier. There are two in the wash siding to give a longer uncoupling zone.
There is a non delayed magnet by the cattle dock (narrower and thicker)……..I only have couple of these in use……..unless placed, as here, at the very end of a siding , it is very easy to get unintended uncoupling.
The delayed work perfectly for me……they are a rather obtrusive but I like the flexibility….I can never quite determine the ideal spot for a schedule so they do get moved around a lot before I settle on a permanent home.
In an ideal world I would have below the track electro magnets activated, like the turnout motors by RR&Co……..but then in an ideal world I would have working signals! What did Terry (Col Stephens) say about the art of compromise?
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I mentioned on Peter's Plank thread that my head of physics had suggested staggering the magnets. I will be firing him on Monday. Not for his poor physics - they worked fine, but because of his lack of knowledge of kadee couplings. One opens, then closes as the other one opens! I think I should have seen that coming!
What these early tests also showed me is the importance of the accuracy of fitting the coupling in the first place. It certainly needs to be accurately centred. Corrections have been made to my dodgy conversions (made easier having used card between the coupling and the wagon). Those early celebrations didn't last as long as I hoped! Hopefully fixed now, but I won't know until it is all up and working on the layout and not the test track. I will experiment with glues other than superglue for fixing them in the future, as you really do seem to have it get it right first time with CA - any advice welcome.
Now, as I have not yet laid my track, I tried some experiments with mounting magnets under the track, buried in the cork underlay. I had some spare 25x8x2mm neodymium magnets. These are much stronger than the 3x3x3 magnets. One of these underneath the track, running parallel to the rail (so two for each uncoupling point) proved highly successful. They worked best with about 1 - 2mm of the magnet showing on the inside of the rails. Any more than that and really wait for the glue to dry - no prizes for guessing how I know! Easy to disguise because they will be ballasted over and a decent distance for uncoupling of about 2cm. This has also greatly reduced the impact of steel wheels and even steel weights in wagons - although I have removed these and replaced (the weight, not the wheels). I tried lengthening the room for the uncoupling by using two magnets each side, "end to end". This caused the coupling to open, then close, then open again, so I guess you need to use a longer magnet rather than two.
For me, these magnets will be a cheap route to take because I already have sufficient. I did notice that they are not as cheap as they once were…. but still more economic than the kadee ones.
So I think I will be able to fix track temporarily, work out the magnet positioning, test and test again, moving them if necessary, before I finally fix the track down.
I don't think I have discovered anything new or earth shattering, but this is my tuppence for what it is worth.
Regards
Michael
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Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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Regards
Michael
Last edit: by Headmaster
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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321? I thought were using a 312. You would be better off with a 308 under the track as Michael says. Lift the section of track, drill a series of holes to fit the magnet, and use a craft saw blade to do the final cuts. That way you keep The sleepers and the magnet is hidden. The 321 is designed for Atlas code 100, not Peco code 100. From memory slight adjustment is required with a 321 as Peco sleepers are higher than Atlas ties.
Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
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Staying on the thread Kevin.
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