Johns' 7mm Workbench
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Spent quite a bit of time today prepping the parts needed for the pits - from the Scalescenes kit.
John
John
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I added corner buttresses which are inset from the corner by 1mm.
These LCut kits are really great as a basis for modifying. I'll be getting more.
John
John
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Max
Port Elderley
Port Elderley
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John
John
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I've done the rafters. The kit provides end rafters and two main rafters. Trouble is these are only 1mm thick. Also, while I'm no architect, it seems to me that the rafters should be as I've got 'em - transferring the roof load to the buttresses. I had to make a new rafter out of card. I solved the thickness problem by using Scalescenes rafters from the shed kit. These had to be modified for the roof angle and it all took time but I like the effect. Now the rafters look like they're beefy enough to do the job.
I also got the doors painted:
In addition I made a pair of pits from the Scalescenes kit:
It took a bit of effort, especially the steps but I think things came out well. There's Peco turnout timbers on top. I will construct some track on these when the time comes.
John
John
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I like your pits as well. :cool:
Max
Port Elderley
Port Elderley
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To Nigels earlier point about the original buttress construction being correct, for GWR it is - it resembles the Tetbury shed which I built in 4mm. However, I want something with a more Eastern flavour, I think this does that.
John
John
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The rafters are the angled bits, which with the tie at the bottom, make a truss. The perlins are the horizontal timbers wot you bang the nails inter.
Purlin - Wikipedia
In any case, yours looks very convincing, John. :thumbs
Max
Port Elderley
Port Elderley
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Buttresses, posts, pillars…highly variable,and not just to one region. General trend was the bigger the shed, the less likely there would be brick supports for the roof. Most (not all) were sat on a plinth. Probably related to the land they were built on and what was used in the construction.
Nigel
©Nigel C. Phillips
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Max was dead right about the purling timbers but don't forget about the ridge board, ties, hangers, collars, etc. Loadsa work in a roof, believe me - and I've fell off a few bouncing off the scaffolding on the way down !
Allan, retired builder, practicing bodger.
Last edit: by allan downes
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John
John
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Allan.
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John
John
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She usually charges for that, John.There's a mental image that will be with me for the rest of the day. :Red Card
John
Allan
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John
John
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That's what I told the missus when I bought her a French Maids underwear outfit.
Allan.
Max
Port Elderley
Port Elderley
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John
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That was her about 50years ago, Max. Much better looking now though.[user=1427]allan downes[/user] wrote:That's what I told the missus when I bought her a French Maids underwear outfit.
Allan.
Allan
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Methinks someone is trying to gain some brownie points![user=269]MaxSouthOz[/user] wrote:[user=1427]allan downes[/user] wrote:That's what I told the missus when I bought her a French Maids underwear outfit.
Allan.
That was her about 50years ago, Max. Much better looking now though.
Allan
:hmm
Jeff
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My shed is essentially finished now:
I fixed the doors by:
- drilling 0.020" into the doorway at the place as the hinges go.
- Inserting and gluing, using CA, 0.020" wire bent 90 deg.
- Drilling into the door hinges 0.032", trial fitting and snipping off excess wire. I used a Sharpie to blacken the exposed wire.
- Gluing the doors, again using CA, onto the iwre stubs.
Easier said than done and there was some blue language.
Notice the restricted clearance signs, included in the Scalescenes kit. These were stuck on with canopy glue.
I thought about using the LCut ridge vents but in the event I opted for the Scalescenes design.
Gutters are also from Scalescenes, not fancy but look OK I think. I still need to do the downspouts.
John
Last edit: by Brossard
John
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