To get an accurate length vehicle

It's been some while since I reported in.  This is because I rebuilt part of the model and was working on the underframe.:roll:

The state of play today:



Starting from the top, I decided that a full length top beam would be better than trying to piece it together.  The only difficulty was carving the center section in order to save the strapping.  There's a detail strip to replicate what appears under the roof.
After thinking about the underframe fit and doing further measuring, I decided to add 1mm to one side.  I had originally built the two sides of slightly different length and was prepared to live with that but for the sake of a more comfortable fit to the u/f I redid it.

Having finished building the main body, I made the diagonals with 1mm phosphor bronze strip stuck with cyano.

Despite the Bill Bedford u/f being a close match to the D1661, I discovered two disappointing aspects.  The first was that there are no buffer beam overlays (more on that later) and the brakes of the clasp type, typical of a later diagram of van.
I had got myself some of Bill's 10' WB brake gear at the same time as I got these u/fs.  I was able to extend the length of the brakes by 4mm to suit my 11' WB, but not an easy job.:pathead 

Reading up on D1661, most vans were manually braked, although there were a few that had AVB.  Also there is no hard and fast rule about wheels - the picture of the van I will copy has 3 hole disc wheels - those on the model are Exactoscale.

Apart from that the u/f is very good.  There's a slight incline on my test track and the wagon insists on rolling along it of it's own accord.  I raised it slight to take the pic.

I used a Bachmann 10' WB u/f as a donor for the buffer beam.  This represents a steel beam so I packed the ends to simulate the thicker wooden one on the van.  I'll use the axleboxes and springs from this u/f as well.

Getting all the pieces to line up is a great trial and on more than one occasion I've cut through a beam in order to re-glue it.
I've ordered some wagon detailing parts from Mainly Trains to make reinstating rivetted/bolted detail easier for the future.
On the whole I've rather enjoyed this, but it is an onerous process.

John

Somewhat more progress to report.  The underframe build is complete and I'm just making some angles for the ends.



I got the bars on with some difficulty (not much about this was easy), but I'm fairly happy.  I used 0.031" NS wire.  My hole drilling accuracy isn't great.  Where I got it right, the wires got right angle bends and were stuck into the holes securing with cyano.  Where I didn't, I simply glued the free end to the upright with cyano.:pathead

I also reinstated the strapping with 0.010 x 0.040" strip.  Not very pretty, hopefully after the bolt heads are on and paint applied, it will look better.

Also got the axleboxes on - these from a Bachmann 10' WB u/f.  I did a fair bit of carving to get just the box and spring.  I then realized I had made a dumb mistake and not made the solebar double thickness (it supposedly being wood) - there was an extra piece of brass in the kit that I couldn't figure out - now I know .:It's a no no Can't fix it now without tearing the whole thing apart.

Brake handles and ratchets were a trial.  The handles were designed for Morton so one was wrong handed.  I managed to modify it by cutting and resoldering.  The ratchet was a fiddle, not least because the springs stick out too far.  I filed a groove in the spring so that the ratchet sat better.

John

John,

There is a picture of what looks one of these behind a Precursor at Leamington (Avenue) circa 1936 (oblique shot of the engine, the cattle van is there by accident). [Leamington (Avenue) Station - Locomotives: Ex-LNWR 2P 'Precursor Tank' No 6826 is standing at platform two at the head of a goods train with a cattle wagon immediately behind the bunker].

You've certainly captured the essence and substance of the wagon with these modifications. Certainly motivated me to get on with a couple of cut-and-shuts that have been on the bench for more than 6 months.

Nigel

Yep, looks like a D1661 to me, matches mine anyway, apart from those stupid solebars.

I'm really happy that you are inspired by this build.  I don't think I've done it before and, I must say, there is a certain satisfaction to being able to craft something.  Every step seems to be a problem needing a solution.

John

I decided to make up the Slater's MR Cattle Van this afternoon:



A very good model in general.  The van body parts fit well.  I used Exactoscale wheels again, spoked this time.

You'll note the bits of brass.  I find plastic kit brakegear to be crude and in this case the plastic brake handle broke.  I have all sorts of brake bits in stock, available from Mainly Trains and Eileen's Emporium.

I can now finish both vans more or less together.

John

I've enjoyed watching it, John.  Thanks.

I'm looking forward to the paint job.

I'm glad you enjoy my scribblings Max, makes it worthwhile.

Today was the modelling two step again.

Last night with half my mind on the telly and the other half on modelling problems, I came to the conclusion that the thin solebars simply won't do.

This morning, with a deep breath I took my soldering iron to the underframe and tore it apart.  Delaminating the overlay wasn't too bad (these are very thin and can easily be wrecked).  It was a matter of applying heat, forcing a xacto chisel blade under the overlay and prising it apart.

I ended up laminating two additional layers of brass to the original solebar by "sweating" the strips on and then re soldering the overlay.  I got the thickness to the same as on the Slater's kit.  My springs are still a bit on the thick side.



I also made some angle from strips of Evergreen.  the piece against the van end is 0.060 x 0.030" while the angled bit is 0.040 x 0.020".  This gives a uniform looking angle.  While playing around with drilling holes today I managed to damage a couple of them.  I've made some new ones for installation tomorrow.

I'm not happy with the plastic strip strapping, so I think I'll wait for the Mainly Trains wagon detailing etch.

John

I too am enjoying this thread John. :thumbs

Watching you guys build these kits makes me realise how much better they are even that today's superb RTR offerings.  Maybe one day, I'll pluck up the courage and have a go at something simple myself …………..:hmm  I really like the idea of sprung axles ……..;-)

Cheers Peter.  Trying to cobble various components together to make an accurate (as far as possible) wagon.  A shame that Bachmann couldn't make theirs right.  Still, their 2014 announcement is due this month, fingers crossed for some neat stuff.

Even the Slater's kit, as good as it is, benefits from a few embellishments.

Springing isn't essential, it's me making work for myself, but it does make the wagon roll nicely and is much more effective than compensation IMO.  I've just ordered a bunch more of Bill's kits from Eileen's.

The Slater's van is rigid and rolls well also.  You do need to ensure that the wagon is square.

John

Having neglected these vans for some while, I picked them up last night.  I took a long look at the Bachmann van and decided that it really wasn't worth the effort, so that's been put on indefinite hold.

The Slater's van, on the other hand, looks very good and I completed construction today:



Ready for some gloss varnish and transfers.

John

That's one very impressive build John.:nice

Indeed it is Alan. :thumbs

Looking really good John - and you'd never know it was composite materials ………….:pathead

Looks the business John.:thumbs

Thanks Guys, must gird up the old loins and get some transfers happening next.

John

 

Right so transfers went on today.  It made my brain hurt!  :twisted:



Slater's, unlike most kit makers, do supply a transfer sheet.  These are Pressfix type and no matter how hard I try the letters seem to go all ahoo and I spend a lot of time herding them with a toothpick.  If the Tare looks different it's because I used a different transfer sheet - Fox I think.

John

Superb detail John - well worth all the effort. thumbs

It looks "solid" - is it heavy or will you need to add some extra weight ?

Thanks Peter, it's about 60g as I recall.  I cut some strips of household solder (no good for kits) and glued it to the inside floor.

John

That turned out nicely john.  Lets face it ,if it can stand up to a close up shot like that it will certainly pass on the layout.

Yes Reg, the cruel close up.  I'm pretty happy with it.  Just glad the lettering is done.

John

 

I sent off a rocket to Parky Dundas the other day asking about their forthcoming Cattle Wagon kit.  The response was that it will be Dia 1661 (what I was trying to make the Bachy wagon into) and it will be out early 2015. :)

John