Converting the Midland 0-6-0 2F to EM
Posted
Full Member
From the 00Works Model
The first chapter of this build is complete, the tender:The only mod. I made to the tender body was to cut off the brake handle (which was bent wire) and solder on a piece of 0.45mm NS wire to the correct shape.
The coupling is positioned hard against the back of the buffer and gives me close coupling to the extent that buffers touch and compress when being propelled.
The tender is of interesting construction, as I found when I disassembled to install the coupling.
The frames and footplate are whitemetal. On top of that is a brass plate and the tender body proper is, to my surprise, foam.
To install the coupling I drilled an oversize hole in the brass plate and an oversize in the foam.
I then drilled and tapped (using the Kadee tap) for a Kadee delrin screw in the whitemetal frame. The coupling was packed with plastic strip to a thickness of ~0.100".
John
John
Posted
Inactive Member
I am having a set back day. The comet gearbox will not work with the Jinty body unless one gets a drive extender and even then its dodgy.So I guess that job is shelved until after christmas.Its to late now to order stuff from England.
Tell me those high level gearboxes are they smaller than the Comet jobs.Another mistake I had left out some of my EM track and I must confess the 00 looks less than class against it.These trials one has to endure.
Mind out with your Deeley Tank with that comet gearbox.Think drive extender.
Cheers,
Derek.
Posted
Full Member
Confession time, I fitted the Loadhauler+ to my Jinty driving the trailing axle and found that I had to perform surgery to get everything to fit. I even had to remove some of the backhead :roll:. Fortunately, this is something that can't be seen.
I bought a couple of drive extenders (D2 to be exact) to go with the Loadhauler Compact+. The D2 has a final drive width of 8.7mm which will just between the hornblocks on a sprung chassis in EM. I'll try this out my saddle tank.
Are you trying to drive the trailing or center axle? Maybe the center axle will work better, but, then, compensation becomes a problem. Have you seen the Comet Download on building chassis'? The Jinty is featured and shown with center axle driven.
The chassis instruction sheet is a bit sparse.
How about springing? Comet have this as an option and it looks simple enough using their bearings and springs? I may just try it at some point, I will say that CSB is hard work.
Now you know how I feel. :mrgreen:
Not a good idea to start having second thoughts about 00. :cool:
John
Posted
Inactive Member
Anyway something to play with until I get a decent high level order in.Also I have a smaller Mashima motor that may give some leeway.
Doubts about 00 John,I have always had them.However I am going to be pragmatic.With this build some RTR will cut down the sheer time scale.I do not fancy trying to rebuild a Bachman 2-4-2 Lanky tank loco at the moment.It could be just a mid winter mood :roll:.
Cheers,
Derek.
Posted
Full Member
I didn't realise just how much time and effort it takes to convert to EM (shudder to think what it takes to go P4) so 00 is certainly an option since it lets you focus on things besides rolling stock, and for many, track.
As for the Lanky tank, I have the Cotswold kit to build at some point. I'll use Bill Bedford's lovely chassis kit though.
John
John
Posted
Inactive Member
Cheers,
Derek.
Posted
Full Member
John
John
Posted
Full Member
When I left this project I had done the tender chassis in EM. Trouble is, it was riding about 1mm too high.
Now that I've decided to go back to 00, I revisited the tender.
As I reviewed the problem, it occurred to me that a lot of surgery would be required between the frames to lower the body.
I had one of those blinding moments when I realized that my Brassmasters 3F Easi Chas kit had a fret for MR frames. A couple of minutes to compare the etch to the 00Works frames settled it. While the original frames are accurate and overall not too bad, they do lack rivet detail.
I decided to assemble the etch and here is the result so far:
I still have axleboxes to add to the frames.
John
John
Posted
Full Member
I spent the day working on this and other projects. I got the axleboxes on and a coupling hook.
The axleboxes were fixed with CA (Zap a Gap green). I soldered these on the Jubilee tender and it was quite a trial. You can't get them on right first time and the CA gives a few seconds of adjustment. I do like lost wax cast brass.
John
BTW how do I edit the thread title - it has become redundant.
Last edit: by Brossard
John
Posted
Site staff
Regards
Alan
Born beside the mighty GWR.
Alan
Born beside the mighty GWR.
Posted
Full Member
How about:
"Upgrading the Midland 0-6-0 2F"
I should have thought that the OP could do this.
What's with the center justify anyway, it bugs my brain.
John
John
1 guest and 0 members have just viewed this.