Hints & Tips No. 2474
If You Are Soldering Track on Curves Pt 1
By Several Modellers
If ties are close to where you will be soldering and there is concern about plastic sleepers melting, use heat sinks on the rails next to the joint soldering point.  I used two alligator clips, one on each rail.  That minimizes the heat seen by the next sleepers.  (Paul Ahrens)
If you have not soldered much yet, before you solder any of your track, try practicing on some scrap ends of track you may have. If you ruin the scrap while you learn, you will not have to use bad words ruining some good pieces of flex track. (Tony Fielding)

NOTE  The First 499 Hints will be available on the YMR site from now -  I am seriously starting to run out input with about 30 to go but I've had a good innings!
Check out https://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=16890&forum_id=149#p305359

Hints & Tips No. 2475
If You Are Soldering Track on Curves Pt 2
By Several Modellers
Consider investing in a resistance soldering unit - this gets around most of the concerns with tie-melting or time to avoid cold joints and such.  Use a good no-clean flux and, ideally, one of the eutectic solders (which "harden" quickly to form the joint) – and yes, this is a perfect excuse to solder a small feeder wire into the joint while making it. (Harry Chapman)
Rather than attempting to carve plastic ties for use under the solder joints, I use wood ties (often cut from something like 6X8 scale lumber) where I have removed sleepers to put joints, which disappear once the track is painted. I have the added bonus that the wooden sleepers do not melt if you solder close to them. (Rob Spangler)

 Check out The First 499 Hints at  https://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=16890&forum_id=149#p305359

Hints & Tips No. 2476
Picking up Metallic Rubbish around your Track
By Ed Pullman
I followed the example of a friend and built a magnetic pick-up car. I used a hopper car and stuck some rare earth magnets between the hopper outlets below “floor level” where they would not be readily seen but easily accessed.  I was amazed at how much ferrous rubble that the car has picked up!  Better on the magnet  and removed than in speakers and motors!

Hints & Tips No. 2477
Fitting Rare Earth Magnets to Old Motors
By Mike Reade
Old Alnico magnets used in older open frame motors such as Triang and Hornby  losing their strength was a known issue back when these were new.  Some firms advertised Remagnitising services in old magazines way back when.  There just was not another option for the magnets back then.  New Rare Earth (Neodymium) magnets will restore the power those old motors really have. Most better quality motors will run smoother and quieter, with plenty of torque for slow speed crawling or starting heavy trains.  The motor will also run cooler and not foul the commutator as quickly with a healthy magnet.   Do this service to the motor, isolate the other motor brush and your ready to DCC it. 
Check out The First 499 Hints at  https://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=16890&forum_id=149#p305359

Hints & Tips No. 2478
Long Flowing Backdrops
By Mark Pruitt
I bought a number of 4x8 sheets of .060” which I have used as the backdrop sheet on my walkaround layout.  The joins when done carefully are barely discernable, the backdrop quite flexible following the curvature of the layout and painted sky blue gives a real depth to the layout.

Hints & Tips No. 2479
Sticking Plaster Scenery to Styrofoam Pt 1
By Mark Pruitt
My scenery base is pink styrofoam (so far). I learned the hard way that plaster of paris, which is what I use as a scenery base, does not stick to the smooth pink styrofoam, so I rough up the styrofoam with a surform tool first. 
I cover any gaps between the subroadbed and styrofoam. I used paper drywall joint tape because I had it on hand. Then I mix a batch of plaster of paris to a consistency about like pancake batter and just paint it on. I also tint the plaster with powdered dry tempera paint so it will not be stark white if it chips.
And then I sift on a tempera powder / plaster of paris powder mix and soak it with water. The plaster acts as an adhesive and makes the tempera "dirt" stick to the surface.

Hints & Tips No. 2480
Sticking Plaster Scenery to Styrofoam Pt 2
By Mark Pruitt
In the area outside the yard, I'm going to put down static grass, spread out some oregano (it's a fall scene, so coarsely ground oregano looks a lot like dead / dying vegetation), and add some other texture elements unevenly throughout the scene.
In the yard will be some weeds and grasses, with a lot of bare dirt between the tracks and around the buildings where there's no ballast. I'll use a lot of weathering powders and darkish stains to give the area an overall grimy appearance.

Hints & Tips No. 2481
Safely Painting Plastic Figurines
By Ray Vondrak
I  just give any figures I feel need a repaint  a once over with an aerosol primer and proceed from there.
 
A few years ago I came across a lot of my old (British made) Hornby figures and detailing parts from my first "train set" (benches, luggage wagon, incline signs etc, pre 1980) - my childhood efforts at painting and gluing were a bit thick, so I put them all  into a bowl of white spirit and went out.  On checking the bowl the next day, I found that the plastic had swollen up, softened into a spongy rubber and gone sticky - to add insult to injury, the paint and glue did not shift! 
 
The moral is with any solvent cleaning, check on a similar plastic in an area that does not matter as a trial first, particularly as plastic compounds have been changed over many years.

Hints & Tips No. 2482
Making Sure Your Material Cuts are Square 
By Desmond Crooks
I  do a few structures with Styrene and Foam Core.  When I mark out the side of a building, to ensure it is square I mark it out carefully first. Before finally cutting the piece out. I check the distance across both the diagonals and if these are within .5mm or preferably  right on the money for both.  That is a measure used to check most large distances.  In carpentry making table tops for example, within 1mm is considered exact and 2mm is considered acceptable for most tasks.

Hints & Tips No. 2483
Nail Holes in larger scale buildings
By Several Modellers
I build a lot of older structures representing weathered wood and using a pin wheel to put nail holes in an O scale structure is quite realistic, given that from even a short distance away a set of holes can look very uniform. (Maurice Edwards)
I used the very fine tips on a set of draughting dividers to do nail hole/heads on a model of a derelict grain elevator. As fine as the points were,  they were still too big to be in-scale for HO but reminiscent to the viewer of the layout (Wayne Toth)
When I was doing contest models I used the tip of a needle in a  pin vice and even then you had to make sure you used the right size needle. (Raymond Bell)

Hints & Tips No. 2484
Ideas for Control Panel Materials  Pt 1
By Several Modellers
This will depend on what materials are available in your area/country
I sandwich a track diagram between two sheets of Lexan. I think the Lexan is 1/16, (2mm)  but it might be 1/8  (3mm). The frame is scrap 2X8 lumber I cut off at an angle, mitred the corners, and cut a groove for the panel to fit. I assembled the front and sides, painted the frame, then inserted the panel and attached the back. (Mark Pruitt)
I use 1/8" masonite, drill my holes for the rotary switches (to control signals) and push buttons which control turnouts.(Neal Knowles)
I develop the track diagrams using an older version of Atlas Right Track, available as freeware, and print them on letter size, ink jet printer sticker paper from office supply houses. 
For the panel structure, I use inexpensive document frames from Wal-Mart.  I attach the stick-on track diagram to the frame's paperboard back-board and trim it down as needed with a hobby knife; then cut sheet acrylic plastic from home center stores, using the scribe- and- break method to get usable sizes which are then cut to size on my mitre saw. Frame members are cut down, if needed, on the mitre saw and the panel is assembled to fit.  Once everything checks out, I use a #11 blade to drill a pilot dimple in the acrylic for the toggle locations, then remove the plastic and enlarge the holes with suitable drill bits. (Jim Nash)

Hints & Tips No. 2485
Ideas for Control Panel Materials  Pt 2
By Several Modellers
For my main panel w/DPDT turnout switches, I used a custom ordered piece of 5/64" aluminium sheet.  Steps were to mark the diagram, drill the holes for DPDTs and LEDs, prime and paint white, use pinstripe tape to mask the diagram, paint black, remove pinstripe tape (showing the white diagram).  I then added dry transfer lettering and a coat of satin clear coat. (Paul Ahrens)
For an Aluminium Panel, look for a fallen road sign (Dennis Sexton)
My layout is an around-the-room type, so I can follow the train using a tethered throttle with multiple plug-in points throughout the room.  If there are switches or other controls needed, they're mounted on the layout's fascia, near to whatever feature they might control.  (Wayne Toth)
Over the years I have used plastic, wood, and masonite.  The easiest and best result came from the masonite and if I were to build another that is what I would use.  Plastic would be my next choice, but wood would not be considered.  
The use of metal is interesting, but I avoided it as the propensity of a short was too great - at least the way I do things.  Not saying it can't work, just saying "not for me". (Jack Boulton) 
NOTE  The First 499 Hints are available on the YMR site now -  I am seriously starting to run out of input  but I've had a good innings!Check out https://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=16890&forum_id=149#p305359

Hints & Tips No. 2486
Ideas for Control Panel Materials  Pt 3
By Several Modellers
 
I have a vertically mounted piece of plywood I think it's 1/2" or so. (It was a scrap piece I was given so I did not ask questions on thickness. The piece looked like it would work so I asked and I was given it.) It is vertical as I did not have much room in the original location where the layout was first started in my  bedroom in my final apartment. I bought a house with a good size garage that the layout fit into but the control panel is the same. (Nick Fonovic)

Hints & Tips No. 2487
Using Real Soil on a Model Railway
By Several Modellers
in the UK baking soil is the done thing.   The trouble is that sometimes baking has to be done two or three times.  The effort taken is not worth the slim reward.
I use dried tea for soil. (David Browning)
Using real soil really depends on the type of soil. If your soil includes a lot of clay, it will not work real well. Non-clay soils may be fine. I made some dirt for my layout by baking soil in the oven, then sifting it for different grades. It did not work for general ground cover, but it works great as ballast when mixed with stone ballast (for a line that suffers from not enough maintenance). 
The problem with clayish soils is that the expand when wet, then shrink as they dry. I thought real dirt would work great for my yard dirt.  The dirt cracked and split all over the place! I tried a thinner application, and still no joy. But it works great as a major ingredient for ballast, so I still make and use it as ballast (Mark Pruitt)

Hints & Tips No. 2488
Simulating Concrete
By Several Modellers
 I do a fair bit of concrete grinding at work so I save the concrete dust for scenery, it makes great concrete. (Rod McCain)
I use grey powder paint to represent concrete. If it is a slab of concrete higher than ground level, I use either sheet styrene or foam core, depending on what is required. (Daniel Curry)

Hints & Tips No. 2489
Overcoming Dead Zones in track
By Several Modellers
A couple of causes. 

1.  Oxide can form on Nickel Silver track which is not obvious to the naked eye.   Using Wet and Dry abrasive should lift much of it.
   Rail Joiners particularly Peco are of different material which causes electrolysis and ultimately oxides that stops power getting through.  Solder in jumper wires or solder feeder wires under your track to the rails.
   In extreme cases a dip in the track can cause the power collecting wheels to ride higher and lose contact with the rails 

Hints & Tips No. 2490
Painting Locomotives “Black”
By Craig Bright
This is how I handle "black" paint on my locomotives
I paint my locos that are supposed to be black a warm dark gray color. I custom mix my paint in the following proportions:
4 parts black.
1 part white.
1 part red.
3 parts thinner.
I use Scalecoat 2 paint from Minuteman Models, but you should get similar results with other brands given that some paints may be unavailable by the time you read this.
I apply the paint with an airbrush. I prefer warm dark gray over black because it looks better in photographs, even on "cheap" poorly detailed locomotives. For me, it really improves the look.

Hints & Tips No. 2491
To get the backdrop you want
By Terry Johanssen
To get a specific backdrop for a location, you could go to Google Maps, go to ground view and get a number of screen dumps from the vantage point that "says" to you for example "Kansas City" or “Chicago” or “Newton Abbott”.  Move along that street area or what ever.  Save the individual images, edit and paste them to your backdrop.  It may well be that the obvious background you would prefer is not the one that is actually visible from the tracks and therefore not recognisable by someone viewing the layout.  

Hints & Tips No. 2492
Painting Track
By Mark Pruitt
When I am painting track with a spray can, I coat the top of the rail using a chap stick. It makes the removal of paint from the top of the rails a lot easier. 

Hints & Tips No. 2493
Painting Track Part 2
By Douglas Parker
I hand paint the sides of the rails and ties with a medium sized chisel nosed brush.  Goes quickly actually.  Then follow up with a swath of lighter colored brownish grey down the centre of the ties.
I noticed out west and in Florida, the ties tend to wash out more quickly in the sunlight and actually look grey and not brown.
I mix the paints on a pallet as I go.  You quickly learn how much paint from each pile to grab, and then it blends further as you go over the previously wettened rails you just painted.