Hints & Tips No. 2271
Making Your Yards look bigger in backdrops.
By Will  Annand

To make a yard look a lot busier and “fuller”etc, try laying out a string of freight cars/goods wagons and take a photo. Print the photo, cut it carefully  and use it as part of the backdrop. Of course you would have to get the camera angle and perspective correct but in this day and age of cheap photos and prints (and relatively cheap colour printing). a little experimenting could make all the difference!

Hints & Tips No. 2272
Mixing Paint for touchups etc.
By Mel Perry

I have had really good luck with the correct color of the True Color Paints. However  I seriously doubt if anyone could notice the difference on a handrail or a small spot even if it was off quite a bit.
 
I have hand mixed colors foFr tiny things and areas and have found that close is close enough using a variety of paints. When I am doing touchup work on something if there is a slight mismatch a bit of weathering easily takes care of it.

Hints & Tips No. 2273
Painting Details
By Kevin Stratton
When painting grab irons and handles on already painted cars, I go for a colour that is slightly lighter. It will just look like the sun is reflecting off of the handles and will make the details pop a bit better.

Hints & Tips No. 2274
Superfine Chain Link Fencing for N Scale 
By Several Modellers
 
Some specialty teas come in a very fine mesh nylon tea bag which I am planning to use on my N scale layout. Not sure how fine it is but it is much finer than tulle which some use for HO scale chain link fences. (Neil Harvie)
I saw this super fine mesh wedding veil material in the fabric section at a Hobby Lobby n the US.  I knew it  would work really well for fencing after it was spray-painted.  Spray painting it would make it more rigid and more pliable too. (Tom Fingleton)

Hints & Tips No. 2275
Changing your Industries for a Different Theme - economically
By Pat Hussey
I change my “industries” over regularly to make the variety of themes possible on my smallish layout.
To start,  I make them as foamcore low relief shells with photos of windows and signs laminated on, then I could replace them later when I have the funds, but I usually add some details to each one and make different ones which when I change them over, changes the operating pattern on my layout differently. 
Add or a couple of turnouts with sidings to serve them and not only can you visibly display more rolling stock over a period, you have added a bit of operating interest without a lot of complexity.

Hints & Tips No. 2276  
Making your Industries on a Backdrop economically
By Jeff Schultz
If you want to do industries on the cheap, you could always use photos of the buildings tacked to the backdrop or to a sheet of masonite, foam core, or similar product. 

Hints & Tips No. 2277  
Making your Flexible Rail Joints less obvious 
By Wayne Toth
Most of my track is from Atlas, and all of it is soldered together but there is no reason this could not be applied to Peco or any other brand of flex track.  
I use a triangular-shaped needle file to file-down the portion of the tie plates upon which the rail will sit, which also removes some material from the bottom of the spike heads but leaves the spike heads pretty well intact.
I then lift the track and slide the ties into place, lowering the rails into the prepared ties.
Once the rails have been painted and the track ballasted, it's not all that easy to detect where joiners are and if you only rely on joiners, the spike heads will help hold the alignment of the rails. I also used a smaller code rail joiner because the hobby shop did not have my size in stock but narrowing the base of the rail also helped.
(A Note from Trevor - Wayne lives in Ontario and his layout is in a basement where the temperature is relatively constant. I built a layout in my teens in a shed at my parents place in late winter… a summer trip away and expansion had taken over during a very warm summer and I had to cut about 1/2” from the track section to realign it. It did not “de-expand” in the next winter. These hints will DEFINITELY need to be taken as to what best suits YOU and your location) 

Hints & Tips No. 2279  
How I Paint My Track Pt 1
By Wayne Toth
Painting the rails and ballasting are two simple operations that give you more "bang for your buck" than almost anything else that you will do on your layout. 
I do not use a noticeably reddish rusty colour, although greys, various browns and blacks seem to work well, depending on the areas where they are used.  For most of the original portion of the layout, I do not bother painting the sleepers at all, but I do darken the ballast, using diluted India ink, at most turnouts.
Using a small brush requires dipping it frequently into the bottle for re-loading, and turns a simple task into a tedious one.  I use a 1/2" chisel-type brush for rail painting and it makes the job much easier and faster, as the brush holds more paint, requiring less frequent re-loading.

Hints & Tips No. 2280  
How I Paint My Track Pt 2
By Wayne Toth
My usual practice was to paint 10'or 15' of track or a single turnout at a time, not worrying too much about getting it on the rail tops or the ties, then using a clean rag to wipe the top of the rails - the paint is, by that time, dry, but is definitely not fully cured, and wipes off easily - no solvent or excessive rubbing required. 
There are several benefits to using this method:  unlike spraying with a rattle can or airbrush, no masking is required, no noise is created, nor is there any requirement to "plan" a painting session….if you just got home from work and have 15 minutes before suppertime, paint a turnout or section of track,  cap the bottle and rinse out the brush.

Hints & Tips No. 2281  
How I Operate my Layout at “Night” - usually at night! Pt  1
By Several Modellers
I run and actually operate (switching/shunting, timetable running etc) my layout both with room lights on to simulate daylight or with only a single 7 watt 4100 K° LED flood to simulate moonlight.  I enjoy seeing the hundreds of little lights all over my layout. (Mel Perry)
With modern lighting systems, like the LED strips, I have planned for my layout lighting itself to have a string of blue LEDs that can be brought up to simulate nighttime running. (Randy Rinker)

Hints & Tips No. 2282  
How I Operate my Layout at “Night” - usually at night! Pt  2
By Several Modellers
I have several levels of overhead lighting and at the minimum I can dim the recessed LED can lights to a very low level. Still enough light to know where your train is or to spot cars if needed. Sort of a "harvest moon" if you will.
Much of my operation is passenger oriented and I enjoy the recent developments in LED "flicker-free" lighting circuits. 
Operating at night brings a whole different atmosphere to the layout and it seems to eliminate the distractions of the surrounding room so your attention is drawn more to the layout itself. Pretty much why theatre and movies are enjoyed in a darkened auditorium. (Ed Pullman)
I have always liked running trains at night. My layout is still very much a work in progress, but I do have part of it wired up with building and yard lights etc. I use cool white (not blue) LEDs above the layout for a dim starlight / moonlight effect.  (Bill Stix)

Hints & Tips No. 2283  
Installing LED Strips Pt 1
By Bill Brillinger
I put my LED strips in line vertically with the front of the benchwork, this way the shadows are all facing the same way though there is very little in the way of shadows with these LED’s.
I also found that the warm white by itself was not visually pleasing and I ended up using a cool white and warm white strip together.

Hints & Tips No. 2284  
Installing LED Strips Pt 2
By Peter Edwards
My old theatre lighting textbook called for a strip of lights just behind the front valence and another strip to light the backdrop– this was somewhat dimmer. The upstage lights softened any shadows on the backdrop and put a bit of glow around the actors and set pieces downstage. Additional spotlights were used to provide shadows for plasticity and focus audience attention. You do not see that much any more, as backdrops are out of style and designers prefer the control they can get with dozens of individual lights. But I have often wondered if our shadow box layouts would be better served by melodrama style lighting. If I had room for a backdrop I would give it a try.

Hints & Tips No. 2285  
Linking Modules for a Portable Layout
By Ted Allan
I use door hinges fastened to the underframe of my modules.  When everything is ready to be separated, that is the track laid and cut etc, I knock out the hinging pins and replace them with cut down metal knitting needles which I bend to provide leverage to enable them to be easily applied and removed. Alignment is maintained very well using my system for my larger exhibition layout.


(A Note from Trevor - This system works very well and did so for the British themed  exhibition layout I now have in storage. The needles and finely enough engineered to take the place of the hinge pins. Thanks Ted!)

Hints & Tips No. 2286  
Painting Lines on Craft Foam “Roads”
By Several Modellers
Your era will determine the color of lines.  White is appropriate for Transition Era layouts, while yellow is more correct for modern times.
I have used both craft paint and foam markers. (Bruce Leslie)
I would try a "China Marker" on the foam. They are available in white and yellow and should do what you want. (Kevin Stratton)
I just started my first layout, N Scale, last year, so I am by no means an expert.  But I found some dry transfer Woodland Scenics stripes at a sale.  I bought both white and yellow stripes.  I tried them, and I got good results.
They do not transfer perfectly, which makes them look even more realistic.  I am not good at weathering roads yet, so the surface looks too perfect, but I am learning. (John York)

Hints & Tips No. 2287  
Gluing Coal to Tenders Pt 1
By Paul Ahrens
I used thinned white glue painted on with a brush.  After adding a layer of coal, dripped alcohol (denatured) atop to additionally wet the coal layer, dripped more diluted glue a bit and added a touch of coal where needed.  Adding alcohol again helps the glue to disperse everywhere.  When dry, turn it over and shake off the minor amount of loose coal. 
Looks much better than the plastic "coal" bump, especially the shiny kind.

Hints & Tips No. 2288  
Gluing Coal to Tenders Pt 2
By Wayne Toth
If I am doing coal loads for friends' locomotives, usually brass, I will sometimes build a styrene box to act as a filler in the coal bunker, so that less "coal" is needed. 
Most brass locomotive tenders are built-up from multiple parts, and many of the joints can be somewhat open - not enough to lose the coal perhaps, but enough to leak water when using my usual method.
I therefore line the coal bunker with Saran wrap, using a sheet large enough to also cover the tender completely.  This protects the tender's paint and lettering during the rest of the process.
The loco's owner usually supplies the coal they prefer, and I simply dump an appropriate amount into the bunker, grooming it with a brush where necessary.
I then use the sprayer I normally use for scenery or ballasting work, to thoroughly wet the "coal" using "wet" water, then apply diluted white glue using my usual dropper-type dispenser.  It usually takes a few days to fully set, then the block of coal, with the Saran around it, is lifted out of the bunker and the Saran removed.  The load is then slipped back into place - glued in or not, as directed.
For my own locomotives, I prefer to use "live" (loose) loads, and use coke breeze (the "fines" of industrial coke used in steelmaking) as a stand-in for coal. 
If the tenders have modelled bunkers with separate plastic "coal", the plastic coal is removed and the bunker filled to whatever degree I wish.  This is useful if you're taking photos of a locomotive working, as you can alter the coal level as it's used-up in the locomotive.

Hints & Tips No. 2289  
Removing Track which has been glued and ballasted
By Several Modellers
I find an old 1 inch wood chisel held almost flat against the baseboard surface so it doesn't dig in works well. Be patient and always work the chisel away from you though.  (Rex Ashton)
Holding a chisel “upside down” will reduce the chisel point digging in to the baseboard (Trevor Gibbs)
Most White PVA Glues will give way with warm water applied either through a soaked rag or an iron through a rag to lift track. Washing or chipping the ballast off track once it is lifted  will take a bit more work so a more judicious use of heat or steam or pressure will be required (Graeme Burford)

Hints & Tips No. 2290
  
Considering Painting a Backdrop against an Actual Wall???
By Ken Rice
 
I painted part of a backdrop across the bulkhead door in my old basement.  That was not my most brilliant move, and it looked pretty stupid after plans changed and the layout no longer went across the door.
It does not take much effort to hang something like a backdrop board on the wall to paint a backdrop on, and it will be vastly easier to remove that way if plans change.

Hints & Tips No. 2291
  
Modelling Wire Screens in Doors and Windows
By Several Modellers
I took  some clear plastic,.015? And with 400 grit sand paper scratched it at a 45 degree angle,both ways. but just one pass. You can still see thru it, but will give that screen affect (Susan Hales)
Try the screen material from silk screens, for printing. Just colour them black or dark grey with a marker, glue to your door or window frame, then slice to final size with a sharp blade. Most screen printing shops will be glad to give you a torn or worn screen for free, as they replace the screens in their reusable frames on a regular basis.  (James Elwood)
You may want to consider what screening does to the appearance of the glass behind it…. Makes it a bit grayer than unscreened glass, and a bit more dull, as unobstructed reflection is not likely.
Dullcoat and gray powder might be a suitable representation. (Peter Brunner)