HINTS AND TIPS - THE FOLLOW ON
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Model House Numbers
by Alan Warner
When I had a box full of plastic sprues from construction kits, I noticed little tags attached to them showing the part number. Simply cut the tag off, paint it and you have a house number.
Hints & Tips No.1730
Using Old Power Packs
by Randy Rinker
As long as the AC line cords are in good shape, you can use these to power accessories. Even if you run DCC, it's a good idea to keep one DC power pack top test equipment before adding a decoder - keep one of the Tech 2's, or the newest one - I bought a box of mostly junk but low and behold there was a brand new Tech 4 in there. The older Golden Throttlepack type with a rheostat will have problem controlling locos, depending on if it is the N scale or HO scale version - the HO scale version will have basically no control over an N scale loco or a modern better low current HO loco. The AC and fixed DC outputs can still be used though.
If any of them have bad line cords, with nicks in the insulation or any sorts of cuts - lop off the cord flat against the case and toss them
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Getting Rid of Decal “Silveringâ€
by Marvin Howell
Decal silvering is caused by light refracting between the painted model surface and bottom of the clear decal film. This primarily happens on a flat painted surface. Unfortunately, most models have a flat or semi-flat finish.
Many modellers give their flat railway models a coat of gloss before applying the decals to ensure there would be no silvering. The problem with this process being you have painted a model with flat paints to achieve an accurate look and now you are applying a gloss coat…so much for the flat finish. Once the decals are applied and dry, you guessed it, you have to add another flat coat to get rid of the gloss finish. This decal application process requires very little extra effort and virtually eliminates silvering. You will need Q-tips, white glue, a setting solution (I prefer Solv-a-set) and a soft cotton cloth. After wetting your decal and waiting for the glue to dissolve and mix white glue and water with a brush. This mixture should be thin enough to easily brush on the model where the decal will be applied but thick enough to thoroughly coat the area. With the white glue and water solution applied just place the decal in position and with a Q-tip gently roll the decal working from the centre out. This will force the excess white glue and water mixture from under the decal while still filling the microscopic valleys of the flat paint surface.
The effect is the white glue effectively provides a gloss finish under the decal. It also provides a smooth transition between the edge of the decal and the surface of the model. Once the decal is in place and rolled with a Q-tip I apply the setting solution, which ensures the decal snuggles down into recessed panel lines and conforms to the surface. On difficult sections, roll the decal with a Q-tip immediately after applying the setting solution to help the decal settle in place. A word of caution however—you must perform this last step as soon as possible after applying the setting solution. Waiting too long can cause the decal to distort as the Q-tip is rolled across the surface.
Once the decals have dried I take a damp soft cloth and remove any excess glue or water spots and the model is ready to apply the final finish coat of clear effectively sealing the decals, providing a uniform finish. This is an easy process and eliminates the need to apply a gloss coat to a model prior to decalling. I have successfully used it on flat black finishes, which are probably the most difficult colour to eliminate decal silvering. Try this process on some painted test samples and get a feel for it before you try it on a finished model. You will be surprised how well it works.
Last edit: by xdford
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Storing Decals
by Alan Warner
I have found the best way to keep left over decals safe from fading and humidity is to store them in a sealed storage container. I toss my leftover decals in the container along with a small silica package that comes with many electrical products and cameras. The small packet absorbs any moisture and the container helps seal out humidity.
Last edit: by xdford
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Using Labelle Oil
by Rick Walton
I use Labelle, light oil (108) for bearings, Grease (106) for gears as they are both light lubrication, and plastic compatible. And by the lightly lubricate, everyone means very lightly…. Can not stress that enough. I have seen way more issues from over lubricating than under.
Last edit: by xdford
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Altering Plastic Figurines
by Tom Davidson
A few ideas for customising otherwise standard figures -
Use wire to form a cane or walking stick, and glue it into somebody's hand.
Make an irregular "blob" out of something like aluminium foil, then paint it green & add coloured spots. It should look like a bouquet of flowers to glue to a woman's hand.
Shave a person's head flat on top. Add a paper disc to represent a hat brim, then add the rest of the hat using clay or a bit of putty. Paint the new hat to taste. This could be a big sombrero, straw hat, cowboy hat, small baseball cap, a fedora, a derby, or anything else.
A figure of a guy could be painted as if he is wearing your school's colours.
Look around and observe people. You will get ideas.
Last edit: by xdford
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Painting Junk Piles
by Several Modellers
Start with your favourite water based modelling paints in various colours reminiscent of a junk pile. Paint your junk pile a solid rust colour first.
Thin the other colours by mixing it at a 50/50 ratio with water.
Paint the castings you would like to be coloured and the rust will still show through the thinned paint.
For highlighting of the castings, try dry brushing on a light coat of antique white onto the edges of raised castings. Dip a small brush in antique white. Brush most of the paint onto a paper towel, then lightly brush the paint onto the edges of the castings you would like highlighted. Your model is finished with even more detail then before.
After the paint has dried you may want bring out the shadows of the parts. Use a mixture of Rubbing Alcohol and add a drop or two of Calligraphy Ink. Brush on the mixture over the entire casting. It may appear dark when wet but let the parts dry and they should revert to a light black/grey.
If your colors are still too bright and you want a more rusted look, a very light airbrushing of a rust color can be applied over the painted parts.
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Protecting Delicate Parts on Portable Layouts Pt 1
by Andy Hayter
Boxing up the layout when it is not in use is the way to go, and if you have the room, make the boxes big enough so that buildings do not need to be removed. This can be a great time saver when setting up and packing away. It also means that the fine detail on the buildings are less vulnerable to damage when lifting on and off the layout. It may also make a layout more domestically acceptable
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Protecting Delicate Parts on Portable Layouts Pt 2
by John Balfour
On my portable layout, I have track in a 'cutting' and some tall buildings over the tracks. The buildings are deliberately made removable, they sit on foam board bases, and sit in recesses. They are stored/transported in a 64Litre Really Useful box. If they were fixed the risk of damage would be high. I had intended to store/transport the boards in the classic face to face way, but due to an design error in setting out they have to be transported singly. Oooops!
Nevertheless the more fragile scenic additions at track level are somewhat protected by the rigid ply back scene and other permanent fairly strong bridge structures.
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Weathering Track already in place Pt 1
by Rick Squirrel
Paint pen or a 5O brush with Testors or similar weathering paint on the rails.
For weathered ballast and sleepers I wash over with water-based acrylics and allow that to thoroughly dry then add weathering powders for the final detail. As I don't want any powder up inside my locos I also mist the job with water which slightly disperses the powders as well as fixing them and gives a really "used" look to the end result.
Last edit: by xdford
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Weathering Track already in place Pt 2
by Paul Mays
If you have not got a great deal of 'scenic' rail to weather, it should only take a short time to hand paint. It took me about ten hours to degrease, and paint the 80 yards of scenic rail ( 4 yards of track per hour) on my layout. If your track is nickel silver rail, then you have to allow for the slight colour change caused by the nickel silver - have you seen the layouts where the rail is painted with rust coloured paint, and the finished article comes out a nice shade of pink, or orange depending on the make of paint?? That's why I used Humbrol #160 'German Camouflage Red-Brown' which ended up on the rails looking like a light chocolate colour - like the real thing.
Last edit: by xdford
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Using Sticky Wax for Figurines
by BJ Johnson
I have just decided to add a circus component to my Christmas Village, so I bought a circus train, big top and sideshow tents and lots of people and animals. I had a hard time getting the people and animals to stay standing up so I am using “Sticky Wax†and it works perfectly. It holds my riders on their horses and elephants; my wire walkers in place; my people in their seats in the bleachers; balls on the dog’s nose; etc. etc. Its main use is really to hold candles upright in holders if they don’t fit perfectly. Doll makers use them to hold eyes in place in the heads while they pour the plaster over them.
Last edit: by xdford
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Creating Water effects
by Keld Andersen
One way to make water effect is:Paint the water underground with several lays of different colours, (remember to paint the shadows darker ) then add a liquid of thick epoxy glue as water. Just before it dries, work on the surface with a stiff brush to create waves and/or ripples and you can paint the the top of the waves with a little white acrylic paint.
Last edit: by xdford
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Weights for N scale carriages
by John Rumming
For weights for the models, in N scale I use shotgun pellets. I can get my 4.5gm wagon to 7grams no problem. Another idea is to use fishing sinkers like the oval long ones and cut them in half. This is a nice flat surface to glue the weight to the wagon.
by David Bromage
Another option is tungsten putty. It is heavier than lead and much less toxic.
A Note from Trevor – These little gems could well be applied to other OO/HO Rollingstock where lead sheet cut to a space such as under a flat wagon or unloaded container wagon would be awkward. Thanks John and David!
Last edit: by xdford
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Window Cleaner to Clean Air and Paint Brushes
by Randy Rinker
I have some Windex brand in a glass jar I use to clean the paintbrushes I use with Polly Scale, works great. Cleaning, yes. Of course it does not do anything with Testors enamels, so I have a jar of enamel thinner to clean those brushes.
Baby food jars make great containers for small quantities of thinners and so forth. You can find such jars on the internet - but look at the price! You can go tot eh store and buy the jar WITH baby food in it for less than these people want for empty glass jars. Just dump it out and wash the jar. Or get a flavour that's actually good and eat it, then wash out the jar. Or if you have a baby, you will have a ready supply of jars. Some still comes in glass jars, plastic is no good as depending on the solvent it will eat right through it. Window cleaner in plastic is fine.
Last edit: by xdford
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Windscreen Wiper Blades
by Wayne Rosser
I use Windscreen Wiper Blades to make the apex of Corrugated Roofing ridges. It is just the right angle and (in my scale at least) roofing materials just fit neatly into the slot. I coat it with a Clear Matt Finish afterwards.
Last edit: by xdford
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FIRE BUCKETS
By Ian Moore
When I wanted 'fire sand buckets' for my station and engine shed I used an old sprue of an Airfix kit. first I heated it over a flame, then pulled it gently apart and when cold cut the ends near the stretched bit giving me 2 buckets every time. painted red with a stand of very thin (electrical) wire for handle, They look pretty good and cost nothing.
When I wanted 'fire sand buckets' for my station and engine shed I used an old sprue of an Airfix kit. first I heated it over a flame, then pulled it gently apart and when cold cut the ends near the stretched bit giving me 2 buckets every time. painted red with a stand of very thin (electrical) wire for handle, They look pretty good and cost nothing.
Last edit: by xdford
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BRAZIERS
By Ian Moore
They were a common sight on railway yards as they kept staff warm and were useful for burning waste wood. For mine I used the outer rubber insulation from a spade connector or similar, then painted it rust colour. I then screwed up a tiny bit of foil and after a drop of pva glue sprinkled glitter from a Xmas bauble to give it a flame effect.
A note from Trevor - Further correspondence with Ian showed the "Brazier" is an old 50 gallon oil drum… we had them at Islington in Adelaide when I was an apprentice there as well. we just did not call them"Braziers"!
Last edit: by xdford
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If your Triang locomotive does not move…
by Trevor Gibbs
This was as part of an answer given to someone who had a loco that would go spasmodically in direction but not in the other -
Things to check for -
1. Is the motor and gearing spinning freely with turning it by hand. There may be a bit of grit stopping it from going one way and limiting the movement in the other. If this is the case, lift the motor off and see if the fault is in the motor by turning it with your fingers or push the motorless chassis along the track and make sure it is freely moving.
2 Is the motor the older Triang style? Check that the insulation that is over the spring holding the brushes is intact and if necessary, cut some plastic insulation off a short length and replace it.
3, Can other trains be run when powering the Loco? If heat is being generated, just test it for a very short time. If nothing else runs, you may have an intermittent short circuit, possibly at the motor or where the pickup wire is under the chassis or the insulation of the bushes on the pickup side is breaking down. Remove the motor and place the chassis on the track and try and run another train. If it runs alright the fault is in your loco motor. You could try using a pin to clean carbon out of the slots on the commutator.
Last edit: by xdford
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Smaller Scale Oil Tanks or OO/HO Tunnel Mouths?
by Len Doody
A CD or DVD cover from those packets of 50 or so could make Big Oil Storage Tanks in N scale or smaller scales. With the bottom quadrant cut out, the same CD covers could be made into Tunnel Mouths in the larger scale.
Last edit: by xdford
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Soldering Wire to Rail…
by John J. Stetar
Solder the wires from the transformer directly to the underside of the track and drill small holes directly under them so the wires run under the track board. This way there’s no electrical clip-on showing and no need to hide wires in the scenery such as ballast.
Last edit: by xdford
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