before i make a blunder

i will be starting my baseboards soon (i hope) now i want to get this right before taking the plunge and ordering the wrong wood.

the layout will be 3 levels with the lower level (fiddle yard)  then 8 inches above this the 2nd and 3rd level. i intend to build an open frame layout with the 2nd and 3rd level.

so i will build a frame from the back wall with legs spaced at 4ft apart, on top of this i will put cross members every 18 inches to support the ply for the fiddle yard. then when the fiddle yard is working i will build the frame for the second level using the same legs and the same method as i did for the 1st level. the 3rd level will be open frame using the supports from the second level.

questions

1 what timber should i use for the frame\legs? i know we have talked about timber size before and 2 by 1 has been mentioned. if this is a static layout supported by the wall is this an overkill in size?

2 what timber size for the supports spaced at 18 inches? i don't want to mess about using the T method as mentioned as this doubles the wood used. the width of the baseboard is 3ft max and the width of the ply for the fiddle yard is 14 inches.

3 is 18 inches sufficient (yes i am a lucky man), 18 inches for the gaps between supports or can i push this to 24 inches?

like i said we have talked about this before but i want to get this right, we are talking about 60 feet of baseboards so to make a mistake now would be a big one (and costly).

 

Matt - have you thought about using the ply "beam" method as used by Barry Norman ?

Basically,  you use 2 pieces of thin (4mm) ply and pieces of softwood as spacers to form a sort of "beam".  Cut these spacers square at the same depth as the ply - i.e. if you use 3" ply "sides" the softwood spacers would be 3" square - glue & pin 1 at each end and 1 in the middle (or so depending on the length of the "beam").

For your upper decks, you simply fit softwood risers between the ply "sides" cut to the length required for your next "deck".  Repeat with ply "beams" at each level just "plugging" risers in wherever needed.

It's very strong, won't warp or twist and is both light and cheap.

If you do go for the "normal" softwood "ladder" type baseboard,  I'd be inclined to use 2 x 1 for the crossbeams but 3 x 1 for the front edge - particularly with supporting legs at 4ft centres otherwise the front edge could sag.  The batten screwed to the shed wall could be 2 x 1 because it's firmly fixed at regular intervals.

With regard to "overkill" - it's not really the actual strength of the timber that's important, it's the ability to fix to it - 1" isn't much to drive a screw into - and the rigidity offered by larger sectioned timber.

Also, remember that if you have 3 decks, the bottom framework will be carrying everything above it.

Going to 24" is just plain greedy !! :roll::roll::roll:  Seriously,  18" is about right for cross-member spacings particularly if you're going to use fairly thin ply for your decking.  If you have plenty of support from the framework, there's no need to go for thick ply.  In the long run,  softwood is cheaper than ply so use more of the cheap stuff and less of the expensive stuff.

Others however, may have very different ideas !! :roll::roll::roll::roll::roll:

Here's some photos which illustrate the method Petermac talks about above :-

The first shows the internal construction of the sides



The second shows the side members completed. Four sides and the relevant cross braces are made into a frame and the thin ply sheet is glued and screwed on the top.

I recently registered for that american online magazine that Robert posted last week. In the latest edtion was an artical on open framed baseboards. From the pics they looked strong yet simple.

http://model-railroad-hobbyist.com/download/mrh_issue3

Hope this helps.

There's also a whole raft of links in the Forum Index for baseboards.

Remember to allow for your point motors if you are going to have them under the track!
18inch centres are fine, as long as you don't need to put a point motor where the cross brace is. How do I know this :roll:

I've used open frame L-girders, cross beams and risers on the Newcastle Emlyn layout. Some discussion and pictures are available early on in the thread if you want an example.

It is a solid as a rock but being open frame light too.

The spline roadbed is superb and on an open framework I wouldn't use anything else now.

As an alternative, have you thought of using "dexion" metal shelving like Rick uses on Penhayle Bay?