I have been trying to figure out how to hide the break lines that occur around the edges of removable scenery sections. One thought I had was to make the edges jagged instead of straight, which should help take your eye away from it. That sound great from the start, but does create other difficulties. Hinging the section gets very hard to do if the edges are not straight. Could place the hinge at the back of the layout to help hide it, hopefully there's not a wall there. If shrub, tall grass, weeds, whatever is at the point of closure they might get pinched in the joint.
Wayne

It very much depends on where the break is in relation to the front edge of the baseboard Wayne.

Parallel to the front and it's not too bad, as ground can rise immediately in front of the break and fall immediately after. Or a wall can be put at the front edge of the break.

Breaks at right angles to the front are more difficult. I've used a building slightly overhanging the edge (by a few mm), removable structures that span the gap and loads of different dodges. I've even got one or two places where I'll need to run a Stanley knife down the join if I ever want to part the two boards in question. A light coating of grass flock covering part of a join, is no big deal to split and rejoin / reflock later.

Hinged sections :?:  Possibly the most difficult of all and the main reason why I've never use one, prefering to have lift-out sections instead :!:

Hiding the break line is a problem all of us with sectional base boards face.
Some methods are more successful than others and in the end it's better to save your back and just live with the "camoflaged as best as you can" section break.

Just some of the methods I've seen include:

1. put a removeable road bridge from backboard to facia on top of the section break
2. glue a hedge to one baseboard so that it overlaps the other
3. try and avoid the breaks going through a platform but if you do, make the station buildings removeable
4. generally use buildings, trees,shrubs, etc to minimise the "straightness" of the break.

Instead of a hinge at the back, I have seen one layout that had pivot points such that the entire board could be rotated around it's longitudinal axis to allow easy access to the underside.

This would of course require that the edges of each section were straight and at right angles to the front face of the layout.

It lifting is not an issue (and great care must be taken here as our baseboards, while not too heavy, can be bulky and difficult to reach), I personally think lift out/drop in sections will allow the camouflage of the join the best.

hope that gets the thought processes going  :lol:

All good ideas and points to remember. Too bad all I can do right now is sit and think!
I intend to place a little more than one half of my tracks underground or in tunnels. I want the illusion of a train just poping up out of nowhere instead of visually going around in circles. Obviously that will mean there will be many points not readily accessible, hense the removable / hinged sections.
Maybe I'll just have to buy a creeper and build a seat on it for navigation under the layout?:oops::oops:
Wayne