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Large station canopy "N" gauge - Scalescenes Building Kits. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Jun 3rd, 2012 07:36 pm
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Bikeracer
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I've started the N gauge large station canopy,it's a bit wider than I wanted,but the normal one is too narrow.
My first attempt at making a glazing frame for the canopy ends.
This is an A4 label stuck on an A4 label for strength,given a thin wash of acrylic paint and cut out with a Silhouette Cameo,the glazing bars are 0.5mm wide.



I changed the frame design and put more windows in it,I need to experiment a bit more to see just how much narrower glazing bars I can get away with.
I build the arches with a spreader bar on which is perforated at the ends for easy cutting off,this hopefully keeps the buttress ends parallel to each other.



I've decided to make it double length and use seven arches.
I laminate all my card parts from 160gsm and 220gsm card stock,each arch has eight laminations.
The reason I laminate is because I use the Silhouette Cameo and it's easier to shove thinner printed card stock through that and laminate afterwards than to stick a cover layer on thicker card and have at it with a scalpel,especially if it's something with a lot of window cut outs.

Just a mock up.





Allan

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 Posted: Sun Jun 3rd, 2012 09:32 pm
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glenng
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:thumbs looking good Can’t wait to see it finished



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 Posted: Sun Jun 3rd, 2012 09:34 pm
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MaxSouthOz
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I've seen one of these on another forum in OO.  They look amazing when they are done.

Even more impressive in N  :shock:



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 Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2012 02:24 am
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Sol
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Max, in this forum as well
http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=9373&forum_id=101



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 Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2012 02:42 am
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MaxSouthOz
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Of course.  :oops:



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 Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2012 07:46 am
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Ken
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That is terrific particularly as it's in N.    What is Silhouette Cameo please?

Ken.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2012 08:08 am
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Bikeracer
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Ken wrote:
That is terrific particularly as it's in N.    What is Silhouette Cameo please?

Ken.

Hi Ken,

http://www.mdpsupplies.co.uk/craftrobo-silhouette.asp

I invested in one of these at the end of February because if there's a lot of window and door openings to cut out it really does make life easy,especially if they're curved top like the warehouse.
It turns a Scalescenes kit into a Metcalfe one.
Some people that make the vinyl overlays use one to make them.
If the inevitable cock up is made it's easy to print and cut some new ones.

I cut the 110 panes for each canopy glazing (220 total) in a few minutes,likewise all the arched window openings for the warehouse.

It seemed like a lot of money at the time,but having used it a lot now I don't regret a penny of it.My Scalescenes kits have gone together a lot better now,presumably because the cutting out is more accurate than my hand cutting,it's certainly a lot less tedious to cut stuff out now.

Allan

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 Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2012 08:32 am
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Petermac
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I was going to ask that Ken. :thumbs

It looks like a great bit of kit alan - particularly for "N" gauge but I see the maximum thickness of card is 1mm.  I suspect if you cut that frequently, you'll need a good supply of new blades ...............:roll::roll:

I do like this Scalescenes station roof and look forward to seeing the end result after your computer xcutting.

John Dew made the "OO" gauge version that Max mentioned but I'd like to see if it could be built on a curve .............:hmm

Maybe a computer cutter would be an answer to that.



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 Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2012 10:09 am
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Bikeracer
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It won't cut 1mm card,the max is 350gsm which is just shy of 0.5mm,that's why I laminate from thinner card stock.

I did glue some 160gsm and 220gsm A4 card stock together for a while and it will cut it,but using thinner card and laminating puts less strain on things,plus the laminations are stiffer than just card.

The blades seem pretty durable,they're carbide and last longer than steel.
I glue nearly everything with Gorilla wood glue which also sands well on any edges.

I do all my N gauge card at half the thickness to that recommended for 00 gauge,I find the recommended N gauge thicknesses too thin and don't really work for me and for the recommended light card thickness I use 160gsm card stock instead.

I read Johns thread with interest and like him,I found the instructions a bit lacking as regards extending the roof,even now I'm not 100% sure how the join will work out.

Allan

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 Posted: Mon Jun 4th, 2012 07:56 pm
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georgejacksongenius
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Very impressive Allan.You must have the patience of a Saint.

Cheers,John.B.:thumbs

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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 07:41 am
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Bikeracer
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Because there is no positive way to position the arches against the inside wall I made two new walls.
The inside printed layer using 160gsm card was cut away where the arches fit to make a recess to locate them.
The top white part should be a continuation of the moulded concrete,I've since redone it to show this,the lower white part is cut away after gluing this layer onto the backing layers but before the glue sets.



End view.


A bit out of focus,but shows progress to date,once the roof is done I'll finish the arch supports inside the canopy.


Allan

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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 08:21 am
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Petermac
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It looks great Allan. :thumbs

What are the clamps for ?  To hold the walls flat whilst the roof beams are fitted or just to add stability ?



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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 09:05 am
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Bikeracer
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Hi,

The clamps are to hold the wall against the piece of wood to stop the whole thing moving about.
Originally both walls were clamped while I glued the arches in. I've yet to clamp it somehow to fix the second part of the roof,but I'll think of something.

The wood is held in place with some double sided tape.

Allan

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 Posted: Mon Jun 11th, 2012 10:28 am
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Petermac
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Thanks Allan - I guessed it might be something like that. :cheers

It's looking impressive.



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 Posted: Wed Jun 13th, 2012 03:46 am
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John Dew
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The build looks very good Allan

I like the idea of having a wall set uo with recesses for the arches..............I had no clear idea where to put mine.....I was lead primarily by a sense of the overall build and a desire for symmetry..................knowing what I know now I would have spent more time ensuring the arches lined up with the roof panel dimensions.

Have you decided what to do with the roof yet........as you know I modified mine to improve visibilty and access......that was one of my better decisions!

The clamps are an excellent idea......I did something similar but not as effective. I am not an engineer and physics was never a srong point but I was able to appreciate how the load from the roof tended to push out the support walls ..............it would have been ok if I secured the base of the walls but I wanted to keep the roof moveable.......in the end I glued in mini securing points to retain the shape



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 Posted: Wed Jun 13th, 2012 07:19 am
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Bikeracer
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Hi John,

I intend to read through your thread again to refresh my memory on things you did.I think doing a build log opens any build to discussion and hopefully gives people an idea of what's actually involved in making something up and a chance to offer advice.

I've started printing roof parts out ready for cutting,but I'll probably have to alter them after a trial fit.
The roof base layers and cover layers will be done double length in one go so there's no join in the middle,I can do this in N gauge because they fit on an A4 sheet.

The station won't be in a position where visibility through the roof will really matter so I'm not too worried about that,I don't think I'll actually glue the canopy to the platforms so I can lift the whole thing off for access.

Allan

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 Posted: Wed Jun 13th, 2012 10:35 am
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Bikeracer
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I've just looked through Johns thread and it seems to me that there is something wrong with the roof light spacing in the kit,not I might add with Johns build.

The kit has two glazed bays spanning three arch bays,this means that the middle of the roof light glazing is over fresh air and there is nothing where the actual arches are,it just seems wrong to me to have no support where the arches are with the glazing running straight over them and then a joint where there is no support.

I think I'm going to have to alter the roof light glazing to make it a panel for each bay between the arches.

Allan

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 Posted: Sun Jun 17th, 2012 01:31 pm
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Bikeracer
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As usual I've made a cock up,glued the first roof panel on and realised it's upside down and a bit out of line at one end.
Nearly decided to scrap the lot and start again,but after thinking about it I think I can disguise my mistakes:lol:

I've now made the roof light a six bay affair to match the arch spacings,once I've stuck the second side down I'll take a pic.

Allan

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 Posted: Sun Jun 17th, 2012 05:33 pm
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John Dew
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Thats the big plus of Scalescene.....provided the basic shape is square and the angles are right it is quite easy to conceal mistakes.................fortunately for me!



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 Posted: Thu Jun 21st, 2012 09:00 pm
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Bikeracer
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I've finished this now and I'm not totally happy with the way I've built it,still the next one shouldn't have all the mistakes I made with this one:sad:






Allan

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