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Waterproofing Scalescenes Models. - Scalescenes Building Kits. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club | ||||||||||
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John Dew Full Member ![]()
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This may be a case of you get what you pay for. I have remarked in another thread how much better UHU (Made in Germany) glue sticks are than the generic own label types (made guess where). In a previous life I ran some picture frame stores (not art stores Doug!) and we used Krylon spray on adhesive and Krylon "Preserve It"........and thats what I use now on my Scalescene Kits...........not sure about the cost...will find out....... but in terms of effectiveness it does seem to prevent fading and I dont seem to have any staining problems during assembly....surplus adhesive wipes odd without problems. Next time I am spraying I will do a spare bit and do a water test. ____________________ John Granby III Lenz DCC,RR&Co Gold V9 B1 Windows 10 |
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col.stephens Full Member
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Success at last! The answer appears to be Testors Dullcote, a matt varnish in a spray can. My latest test-piece was given two coats of the Ghiant Fixative Spray (as shown in my posting of 22nd March, 2012 above) followed by one coat of Testors Dullcote. Left for 24 hours as recommended on the Dullcote can and then subjected to the 'pippette full of water' test. I'm happy to report that the water did not stain, or affect in any way, the surface of the ink-jet printed brickwork. So, in future, all of my Scalescenes models will be susjected to Ghiant Fixative Spray to stop the printed surface from fading, followed by Testors Dullcote to render the surface water resistant. No animals were harmed during these tests (apart from one of my cats when I dropped a spray can on his head! No, only joking). Terry P.S. The inks used were cheaper generic inks, not brand names. |
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Brossard Member ![]()
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Glad to hear you found an effective matt varnish Terry. I have been using Dullcote (and Glosscote) for years on my plastic models - it gives a very smooth finish and covers a multitude of sins. I haven't used it for card models though. As John notes, Krylon products are available (in Canada anyway) and I find them very good and not too expensive. Krylon Matt Varnish is (I think) water based, while Dullcote has a very nasty vapor. (the other) John ____________________ John |
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col.stephens Full Member
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John, re the nasty vapours. Last year, I purchased from Eileen's Emporium, a well known model railway trader here, a spray booth. I put the outlet hose out of the shed window, switch on the spray booth's internal fan, put on my mask, and spray away to my heart's content. As far as the U.K. climate is concerned, the spray booth enables me to spray my models during the winter months at room temperature, (my shed is heated). I thoroughly recommend these spray booths. Mine cost about £67.00 at an exhibition. Terry |
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amdaley Full Member ![]()
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On the subject of those spray booths. Be careful to wear a proper mask if using anything like enamels etc because the filters in those spray booths to the best of my knowledge are only suitable for Acrylics. They will take the smell out but won't deal with any airborne chemical nasties. ____________________ "The only stupid question is the one you don't ask" Regards. Tony. |
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col.stephens Full Member
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Good advice Tony. I recently bought a 'double filter' jobbie from Wickes. Cost me about £32.00 but I think it's worth it to protect my lungs. Terry |
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GeorgeWB Full Member
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Hi, I use an Epsom printer that uses "Durabrite inks"and they are very nearly waterproof after they have been printed and left to stand for 24 hours You can wet you finger and try to make it smug but it will not The only draw back is cost, a new set of 4 colours original manufactures on amazon cost £35.00 inc delivery but in my opinion they are worth it . George |
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col.stephens Full Member
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George, try here: http://www.cartridgepeople.com/ A complete set of four , high capacity generic cartridges for my Epson printer cost £14.80 These are the inks I am using for Scalescenes models. Terry |
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The Bankie Full Member ![]()
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Hi Guys Having just read through the thread can I suggest non-shrinking model aircraft dope? Dries clear, repels water, paints on, or can be sprayed and it does that on model aircraft tissue. Will do some tests to check it out as I have nothing ready to "proof" at the moment and post results. Regards Jim ____________________ Because, except in some unfortunate circumstances, trains did not run on town centre streets |
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The Bankie Full Member ![]()
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OK some pics using model aircraft dope. This is a micro relief backscene from "Provenmill" my test and experiment track where I do my trials while planning the full size layout. The scene goes here ![]() Like this ![]() One side painted ![]() It CAN go gloss if you do what I did and brush on too thick a layer, (I did it too quickly and with a duff brush) so diluting and airbrushing will work fine. What you are seeing is 5 minutes after painting and it's dry. You need to thin and clean brushes with cellulose thinners. Next attempt will be done BEFORE assembly giving the dope a chance to permeate the paper to avoid "pooling" and giving me a gloss finish. Regards Jim ____________________ Because, except in some unfortunate circumstances, trains did not run on town centre streets |
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Dorsetmike Save oil - bring back steam ![]()
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I use an OKI colour laser for printing, water doesn't affect the print, (mek pak did when I spilt some) it also works out somewhat cheaper per page than inkjets. (full colour costs me between 4 and 5p for an A4 page) (a set of CMYK toner cartridges costs about £136, but does in excess of 3,000 pages) I've printed paper, card, vinyl, decal and transparency stock with no problems. Many of the OKI range can also print "banner" paper up to a metre (or more for some models) ideal for back & sky scenes - less joins! ____________________ Cheers MIKE How many roads must a man walk down ... ... ... ... before he knows he's lost |
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