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South Shore Line ..... Outhouse - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sat Dec 29th, 2007 10:00 pm
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Robert
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I have used pins for rivet heads and if you put the shank in a small vice a few strokes of the file will soon reduce the diameter.



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 Posted: Sat Dec 29th, 2007 10:19 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Thanks Bob! Now all I need is a small vice. :shock: :shock: :shock: I've got a big one out in the garage, but the pin will fall right through the jaws of that thing.

I know I need special tools and things for this hobby, guess I will just have to make a trip and find one.

Wayne



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 Posted: Sat Dec 29th, 2007 10:25 pm
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Robert
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This is the kind of thing you need Wayne. There will be plenty in one of your huge DIY places I would think and probably cheaper too.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?criteria=vice&source=15&menu=-8&WorldSearch=Y&SD=Y    
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 Posted: Sat Dec 29th, 2007 10:34 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Bob, you won't believe this, but when I clicked on your link and looked at the picture, :shock: I said to myself, I think I own one of those. :oops: :oops: So out to the garage I went and five minutes later I found it. :lol: :lol: :lol:
It's not quite like that one but it will do the job.

Don't get old guys, the first thing to go is the memory. :? :( :shock: :lol:

Wayne



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 Posted: Sat Dec 29th, 2007 10:41 pm
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Robert
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Tell me about it. :cry: :cry:



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 Posted: Sun Dec 30th, 2007 07:54 am
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phill
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Well Bob i did not want to say anything but :D :D :D
Phill

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 Posted: Sun Dec 30th, 2007 08:13 am
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Perry
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Wayne Williams wrote:The entrance door is shown to the left with it's cladding. The cladding is cut from a sheet of plain styrene .012 thick. Had to take my time cutting that out as it's only a quarter inch wide. I am concerned about trying to glue it to the entrance door because it is so thin. Don't want to melt it with the glue :cry: :cry: :cry: I wonder would it help to let the glue dry for several seconds before placing the cladding on to reduce the melting?
Wayne


If you are using solvent, letting it dry for several seconds wouldn't work, because it would all have evaporated by then. I strongly recommend you use solvent and not tube glue for this job.

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Dec 30th, 2007 11:42 am
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Wayne Williams
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Perry, yes I am using solvent, not glue! (Sorry, used the wrong term earlier) But I'm still worried about melting that thin (.012) styrene with the solvent. Think I will run a test piece first. :idea:

Wayne



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 Posted: Sun Dec 30th, 2007 12:40 pm
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Robert
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That's always a good thing to do Wayne if you are not sure in your own mind.



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 Posted: Sun Dec 30th, 2007 02:02 pm
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Perry
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Wayne Williams wrote:Perry, yes I am using solvent, not glue! (Sorry, used the wrong term earlier) But I'm still worried about melting that thin (.012) styrene with the solvent. Think I will run a test piece first. :idea:

Wayne


You should be fine, Wayne. I have used solvent on .005" styrene succesfully. Don't flood it with solvent; just a small amount applied with a small brush will get drawn between the parts to be joined by capilliary action and give a good joint. Leaving solvent to dry won't work, because once it has evaporated it ceases to dissolve the surface of the styrene. It's the two surfaces dissolving slightly that causes them to join together.

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Dec 30th, 2007 05:17 pm
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Wayne Williams
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Thanks for the advice everyone, so here goes! :shock: Keep your fingers crossed.

Wayne



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 Posted: Sun Dec 30th, 2007 08:35 pm
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Perry
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Bite the bullet, Wayne. :twisted: After all, what do you have to lose? A few small pieces of plastikard and a couple of hour's work? I've chucked a lot more than that in the bin, I can tell you! :roll: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I'm looking forward to seeing your results. :D They're looking good so far....... :wink:

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2007 07:22 pm
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Wayne Williams
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I have just finished attaching the "Ink Jet Paper Paneling" to the inside of the Outhouse. I will say this: The model looked pretty good until I took the zoomed in pictures and posted them here, now I see all kinds of things like, knife slips & paint brush errors. Believe me they don't look near as bad on the model. I know, you all probably know that already.:oops: :oops:






The first picture I took of the inside exposed a grave error, (guess my "To Do List failed me). I could see right down into the two holes into a "White" dodo pit. :cry: So I had to mix up some acrylic paints and reach down into the openings and paint the back wall. Now, in this picture it looks like the holes are not even cut out.

I have stopped the paneling short of the front walls so that I can adhere the front wall in place without damaging the paper. When the solvent even gets close to the ink it makes it 'run'.
The window has not been cut out as yet, (hard to see in this picture) not dry enough. Will probably just wait until tomorrow to do that.






As you can see the cladding went onto the door without a hiccup. Guess I just worry too much! The paper hinge works great too, (Thank You, Bob!)

The next step is to attach the front wall, then onto the roof.

Wayne



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 Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2007 07:29 pm
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Perry
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Big old learning curve there, Wayne! :wink: I reckon you'll find your confidence in scratchbuilding will have increased several hundredfold by the time this cracking little project is finished. I like it! :D :D

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2007 07:31 pm
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Robert
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I know exactly what you mean about the closeup photographs Wayne. I have had it happen to me time without number. Now I look on the closeup as a tool so that I can really check where I am going wrong before I have gone too far.
Glad the hinge worked by the way.



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 Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2007 07:47 pm
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Perry
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Robert wrote:I know exactly what you mean about the closeup photographs Wayne. I have had it happen to me time without number. Now I look on the closeup as a tool so that I can really check where I am going wrong before I have gone too far.
Glad the hinge worked by the way.


So that's how you do it, you crafty ******! :lol: :lol: :lol: You couldn't have told us that before I built that flamin' shed, could you? :evil:

:lol: :lol: :lol:

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2007 07:52 pm
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Robert
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Now then Perry, calm down. The closeups wouldn't have been any use to you because you didn't go wrong in the first place. :wink: They are only of use to the people like me in the bodge it brigade. :lol:



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 Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2007 07:53 pm
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Perry
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:roll: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Dec 31st, 2007 09:57 pm
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Wayne Williams
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I really should have given kudos to the source of the Paper Paneling. It was from Mayang's Free Textures located at:
http://www.mayang.com/textures                      Defunct Link
 
I found them under (D (for download)) in the best index around, right here in Building & Operating Your Model Railway.

Thanks Bob!
Wayne



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 Posted: Tue Jan 1st, 2008 10:17 am
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Robert
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I knew someone would find the Index of some use. It gets bigger every day chaps so don't forget to use it or let me know if there's anything missing that you think should be there. The same applies to the Glossary which is really big now and includes a lot of prototype terms as well as modelling ones.



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