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darrenscots
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I am currently scratchbuilding a model of Tain Railway Station, Ross-shire. I have used card for the most part with paper downloaded from scalescenes however for the more trickier parts I am building the chimney pots from brass tube, the awning from plastruct styrene and the awning columns from Aluminium Tube. See attached work in progress with awning styrene structure ready for finishing and paint (its curling a bit but should settle down once fixed in position).



rector
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Don't worry, Darren :wink: It took me a bit of practice before I got the hang of posting photos. Rather than me wittering on, try the "official" forum instructions
You will need a free Photobucket account which you can get.


Good luck, and looking forward to seeing those photos :!: :!:

Last edited on Tue Aug 19th, 2008 12:19 pm by

Gwent Rail
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Hello Darren and welcome to the forum, glad to have you aboard.

It's good to see youv'e started to show us your work, follow Rector's advice and we'll be able to see your photos.
If you need any advice, please don't be afraid to ask, we all like to get involved here and we're a friendly bunch.

I'll put an official welcome in the "Welcome section" and the replies will soon prove my point :!:

darrenscots
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Tim & Jeff many thanks.

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Your building looks very good, Darren :) :)

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Nice sturdy looking structure Darren, looking forward to seeing it develop.
If you have the time and the inclination maybe you could write up a bit about your layout in our "personal layouts" section.
Glad to have you aboard.
cheers

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Nice to have another scratchbuilder on here, Darren. We have a few members who are tempted to take the plunge but haven't done so yet (or haven't admitted it :roll: ) so hopefully your project will help encourage them. :D

Perry

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Nice looking build there darren, look forward to more pics
Phill

darrenscots
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This is what I started with first (modelled in GMAX).....





Marty
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Now that's a neat idea, model the building in 3D prior to tackling the construction in Styrene.
I can do that in AutoCAD and then print out the walls, etc to use as templates.
I think that someone else has talked about doing this somewhere else on the forum but your picture helped me clarify the concept.
Many thanks

darrenscots
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This was the original starting point even before the I developed the gmax model. After completing the GMAX model and before starting on the card model proper, I actually took a tip from an American Plastic Building Guide to generate a mock-up model from thin card. I generated three buildings until it looked right and all hiccups ironed it (I was glad that i follwed that tip!!)






I was able to generate this solely from photographs from the web (plus a VERY hazy childhood memory!) so probably took longer than if had completed a photographic survey. One item (amongst many others!) I certainly learned is to constantly learn to refer to the photos as it is amazing what you miss, forget etc..

darrenscots
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Can anyone recommend the best 00 scale cast iron type guttering & downpipes (as I will need to order online I wont have a chance to view and handle first!)?
Wills? Dornaplas? Ratio? or any other manufacturer for that matter?

Marty
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It seems a lot of work and planning before you even start on the styrene but as Perry, both Bobs and yourself have shown us the final product is worth the effort.

I suppose the other thing to balance out the "rush in where angels fear to tread" attitude ('cause I am champing at the bit to get some buildings made) is that these models we build for our layouts may very well be in place for years, even 10s of years. It's a long time to be disappointed with your own efforts.

Good prompt about the card mockup... I was going to skip that bit and rely on the CAD drawing but I think that I'd better do the mockups to ensure that the buildings fit around the trackwork.

thanks Darren.

PS I know that Perry uses round styrene to create his guttering and down pipes, filing it flat on one side to make a half round for the gutters.

darrenscots
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Thanks Marty. I was also going to miss the mock-up part but when i read the referral in the book it was most emphatic (the reference was from John Nehrich from the HO Scale layout at Rensselaer Polytechnic New York - he advised that they as experienced modellers sometimes generate up to three mock-ups before they are happy...) when it turned out that i had three mock-ups i was a convert to this approach.

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This is how I make guttering:


Downpipes are pieces of plastic rod or tube of suitable diameter with paper strips added where joints would occur - usually about every 6 feet on the prototype.

As far as mock-ups are concerned, I find them invaluable. I wouldn't dream of building anything in plastikard until I had tried a card mock-up of the building to see how it will fit on the layout first.

Perry

Last edited on Tue Aug 19th, 2008 12:19 pm by

darrenscots
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Thanks Perry, will give that a try for the guttering - in terms of forming bends for the downpipes, do you apply heat (hot water?) of some sort in order to bend ?

darrenscots
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I trial fitted the awning again (with the support from a glue bottle!) before attempting the columns and thought i would check the photos one last time...the awning is incorrect as its flush with the gable ends (see 1st pic) - it should be set back. I was swithering between cutting a slot in the wall to slide the awning through (not noticeable BUT i would know!!!) or cut the size of the awning down one side and reglue all the cross members...after deciding that to take the first option would be a bad idea i have decided to modify the awning (ie do it right) and will glue a new rear member in first - this should make it easier to make the reduction in width (see 2nd pic - note trial fit of the new member only - its getting late so that will have to wait till tommorrow).







Perry
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darrenscots wrote:Thanks Perry, will give that a try for the guttering - in terms of forming bends for the downpipes, do you apply heat (hot water?) of some sort in order to bend ?

It depends on the sort of material and the size one is using. The downpipes on my goods shed are made from Evergreen rod (solid, not tubular) and is about 1.5mm diameter, I believe. I find I can bend this by hand, working slowly and gently, a little at a time. This material tends to want to straighten somewhat, so a little 'overbending' may be needed initially to get it to stay where it is wanted. I have used hot water before when the material was of a heavier gauge, so I think perhaps you just need to experiment a little with whatever you are using.

Perry

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Perry, thanks for the tip. I will give that a go.

Progress today was limited to modifying the awning to the correct size, cutting the support columns (aluminium tube) and bottom pads (see trial fit below - still have the top connections to do)




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Very neat! Coming along nicely. :wink: :D

Perry

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Have you had a chance to look at photobucket for your pictures yet Darren?

darrenscots
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Bob, I am going to give photobucket a whirl this weekend.

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OK Darren and all the information you might need for posting them on the forum can be found here.

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=18&forum_id=13&highlight=photobucket

Last edited on Tue Aug 19th, 2008 12:20 pm by

darrenscots
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First try using photobucket. The awning has been given its first coat. The colour has ended up close to the weathered lead colour i was looking for. More coats to follow.

PS Its curling up but seems fine once fitted in place.




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No problem with Photobucket there, Darren. :)

All looking good! :D

Perry

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I have applied a 2nd coat but it will need another coat before I attempt glazing. Unfortunately work will have to stop now as I am going on holiday. Will be back at the end of the Year. Have a nice festive season folks!

Perry
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Have a good holiday, Darren. :D

I'll forward to seeing further progress soon.

Perry

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Finally finished painting the awning (3 coats) and glazed it out (the testors glue works well but does leave a shiny residue). Have now assembled the square gutter and columns (i would have built the columns from styrene if i was doing this again!) Now back to the roof....



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Darren - that looks brilliant. You must have very steady hands !!!

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Better and better Darren. Looking forward to final assembly.

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Thanks Bob. Last night today saw the assembly of the roof as one unit as well as installation of the chimney stacks. I have opted to replace the brass chimney pots with styrene items (much easier to work with). I have purchased some plumbers epoxy putty (in lieu of Milliput) and have produced a test sample first to see how it works out before I install the Chimney Pots (see sample at the front of the building). I will paint the chimney pots before I install them. Chimney pots shown here on stacks as test view only.





I have made 4 attempts to resize the pic without success!!

Perry
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That's very neat work, Darren. :wink:

I'm looking forward to seeing the finished model. :) Don't rush to finish it though. as the old saying goes, 'Make haste slowly'.

Perry

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There's no problem with the size of the picture Darren, it's just right at 640 width. As I have said before the vertical measurement isn't important it's just the width and you have got that right.
Like the picture too, the little bits make such a difference.

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Someday, I intend to build a model that big. :lol: At least there's room to put your fingers on it.
Looking Great Darren!

Keep the pictures coming.

Wayne

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Took an opportunity to complete the roof intersections (at the bottom where the gable roof and main roof intersect. I had allowed plenty wiggle room so the gaps had to be infilled). This is to allow sanding of the roof and then installation of the flashings on the roof intersections (this weekends job) before slating.





Still trying to decide whether to use thin card for the slates or the paper -I have purchased the scalescenes slate for printing to either. I will have to try some test pieces first. The flashings will be simple grey paper and weathered later.

I have also included a close up of the skylights - they were cut from card with a brand new blade and coloured using grey felt tip. Glass was simple acetate printed with a dark grey (a little too dark) I have further included a picture below of where earlier in the build I had installed the skylights at the wrong end of the building (imagine my dismay as I was sitting looking at them after completion (cup of coffee in hand and congratulating myself on a fine job done) when I realised that i was looking at the wrong end of the building!!!!! (reiterates the need for marking the building components!!))

The "Wick" end (wall faces to the Wick Terminus direction)





The "Inverness" End (wall faces Inverness Station direction) - patches in place - all to be sanded and filled before slating...





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Darren Wrote:
(cup of coffee in hand and congratulating myself on a fine job done) when I realised that i was looking at the wrong end of the building!!!!!

I've been there and done that Darren. Look at it this way, it keeps us all humble! Besides, it's like a bad shot in golf that ends up good, you can't see the bad shot on the score card! :roll: :roll: :roll:

Enjoying this Darren!
Wayne

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This weekend saw me install the flashings (see 1st & 2nd pix) Thereafter I printed out the scalescenes slates to card. Installed the first element of the roof (see 3rd & 4th pix) so far. Slates are installed one row at a time.













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This is a very thorough job that's starting to look superb, Darren :!:
It's sort of crept up on me, but now I'm really hooked and looking foward to the next installment :!:

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I only briefly scrolled through this thread before, due to my work eyc, no time but guess what i have read it from thread one too this end and well like Jeff i am now hooked. Looking really good Darren, looking forward to the rest of the build, thanks.
Phill

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I'm liking what I see Darren! Is the flashing made from card stock also? I see two types of glue in your picture, are you using the glue stick for the Slates?

Wayne

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That's all looking very nice, Darren. :D

I'm looking forward to catching up on your progress when I return.

Perry

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Careful measuring and matching of slates the order of the day (unfortunately no progress last night as work got in the way!) I am pretty pleased the way the slates are turning out (this brings back memories of my summer holidays working for my father - he rebuilt many old structures and I enjoyed the slating the most - to see a uniform slate roof built from handcut slate is very satisfying)...anyway better get back to the model..!




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Wayne, the flashing is paper. Yes, I am using the glue stick for the slates (i have just gone onto the second stick) The Elmers tacky glue is good for card however it turns the print pink if there is any overage on printed sheet/card. I have to finish for the day so progress so far is shown below.




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Have gone back through and edited the original Fotopic links in the earlier part of this thread to be linked as Photobucket instead.

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Those chimneys in the first picture look good too Darren.

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Unfortunately weekdays are out for progress (too many things filling up my time but i do grab a chance to see whats happening on the forum) so at least its Friday and I have completed one further panel - more to come this weekend however I will need to go out to Hobby Lobby first thing (we dont seem to have the equivalent in the UK - its like the B&Q/Homebase chains but for Hobbyists) to buy another big batch of glue.




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Have been hard at it today but still not finished yet! 4 more parts of the roof to go....



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That is so professional looking, well done.
Phill

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Excellent, Darren. That building will be something to be proud of.

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Nice work Darren, it is really looking great. Can't wait to see it setting on top of the structure. It must be fun working on something that
Big!
:D :D :D
Someday soon maybe I can start one that is of a decent size to get my fingers into. :shock: :shock: :shock:

Wayne :lol: :lol: :lol:

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Thanks everyone for all the encouragement. I just hope I havent bitten off more than I can chew!!

At long last I have completed the slates (some 300+ strips of paper later!) - now there is lots and lots of trimming to do as well as the installation of the zinc coated cappings (i intend using grey paper and a thin brass road inside to create the rounded cap)

I was going to use either card or styrene for the bargeboards when I spotted the wooden stirrers in the supermarket last night(see below at the top of the picture.

.




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For the bargeboards nothing looks more like wood than wood Darren, nice spotting. That's going to be a very, very nice model for your layout.

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You've obviously been busy whilst I've been away, Darren. It's all looking really good. :wink: :D

Perry

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It's looking very, very impressive Darren and it looks like a really eye-catching, substantial building. Well done. :wink: :wink:

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Spent the early part of the morning setting the roof and doing final adjustments (that pile of card next to the knife are pieces shaved/removed from the underside) Put the final pieces in the eaves at the end of the building to lock the roof in place (hence the expensive clamping system holding it while the glue dries!) but keeping it removable.

Have got the barge boards installed and once I am happy they are all dried out I can start cutting back the slates and installed the cappings on the roof.




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Looking better and better Darren.

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Looks very realistic Darren. Excellent roof and stonework - you've managed to get a good 3D effect - well done.

Petermac

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What a supper job Darren! Can't wait to see it completely done and setting on your layout!

Wayne

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Thankyou for the kind words. Have been working this evening on the roof (again - everybody must be getting bored!!). I completed the cappings & flashings - cappings were made from brass rod covered in printed paper to give the rounded section. I am pretty happy the way they turned out. (the scalescenes capping is more suited to a concrete/clay tile roof) Lots of trimming and touch-up on the roof left but will now let it dry overnight.








Darren

phill
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That is sure so proffesional looking, you aint doing this for a living are you :D :D . Now i have this project and i was wondering :D :D :D
Phill

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Thanks Phill, no this is a labour of love. Unfortunately I have to do something else to pay the bills - if I could construct model buildings all day for a living I would be a happy bunny!

Darren

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Darren

I think your work is outstanding and I have enjoyed watching this building taking shape. I believe the project has the wrong title on the forum though. I only glanced at it by chance. I think if it was called "Scratchbuilding a Station Building" it would receive more attention. If the FC reads this maybe he would consider a new title :?:

Wherever it sits though, Darren, this is impressive stuff and I am looking forward to seeing the finished item, especially when it is installed on the layout.

Bob(K)

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Thanks Novice, I appreciate the encouragement (it keeps the momentum up!)

I agree re the title as I have thought about this a few times - your suggested title looks good to me also so if the powers that be good do the needful...

Unfortunately I am an industrial gypsy and all our worldly possessions are in storage in the UK so I am limited to creating buildings only here in our serviced apartment here in the US - the layout will come at a future time however it will be the Highland Line (including Tain).

Darren

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Title change done, Darren.
Keep up the good work :!:

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Thanks Jeff & Bob

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Petermac wrote:Looks very realistic Darren. Excellent roof and stonework - you've managed to get a good 3D effect - well done.

Petermac


Petermac's quote set me thinking about the stonework, I have tried a test panel today (in a part hidden by the roof) which I think will work - I have taken a wooden golf tee and scribed the joints and this gives a much better look than the 2D print. (See the scribed block at the top right versus the uncsribed block at the left top) This lengthy job however will have to wait until I complete the barge boards and guttering. (Only had time today to create the scribe tool and make an initial test piece of gutter as noted in by Perry.
Chimney Pots have also had the first coat but I will leave them to be part of the "topping of" ceremony!




Darren

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Golf Tee!!!! Who said you can't mix two pastimes? :shock: :shock: :shock: :oops: :roll:

Wayne

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I find the golf tee more useful for scribing than its intended use!!!
:lol:
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Darren - I think your ridge piece looks excellent, as does the flashing in the valleys - what did you use for that ?

I really didn't know the stonework was 2D !! :shock: A good idea with the golf tee but oh dear, such a lot of scribing to do !!!

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Petermac wrote:Darren - I think your ridge piece looks excellent, as does the flashing in the valleys - what did you use for that ?

I really didn't know the stonework was 2D !! :shock: A good idea with the golf tee but oh dear, such a lot of scribing to do !!!

Petermac


Thanks Petermac.

The flashings for the valleys were made from printed paper  lightly scribed at the rear before installation. I simply used an excel spreadsheet to create the sheet for generating the sheet for cutting up.

For the ridge pieces I developed a process (through trial & error! - I am sure there is a better and cheaper way - wooden skewers come to mind..) I knew the diameter of rod I needed but not being close to the model shop I picked up some brass rod at the desired diameter from another store (I am sure there are lots of other alternate materials) (I did a little thumb nail summary tonight to record the process (minus the glue) on a scrap roof piece):

For the covering I used the valley spreadsheet but narrowed the width of the columns and saved it as another file :





Cutting the paper and brass rod to length I rolled the paper slightly and placed the rod in the centre (i tried scribing paper lightly to the rear but this had a tendency to give an angular shape to the top. Example shown are not cut to length..)













I then rubbed down the length of the tube on either side to make sure the rod followed the shape.(using my multi-purpose wooden coffee stirrers) I then splayed out the long edges slightly.











After that I covered the rod in glue and centred it back in the preformed shape and then put glue along the long edges (glueing the paper all over first led to difficulties in handling) After that I installed on the roof and again followed along the long edges with the coffee stirrer to make sure the shape was set.






Re the scribing that will be a long day of tea and biscuits...
Darren

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First class, Darren :!:

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You have perfect timing Darren, I was just sitting down trying to figure out how to make this rounded ridge cap. Spent about ten minutes, then said, oh well maybe tomorrow I will figure it out. Turned around and logged in to the forum. Lo and behold, right in front of me is this step by step instruction on how to build my ridge cap. :D :D :D :D :D

What a Forum we have here!!!! 8) 8) 8)

Thanks Darren!

Wayne

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It certainly looks very good Darren and thanks for the explanation and photos - 1 photo is worth 1000 words !! :wink: :wink:

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As usual, innovative use of ordinary materials, backed up by good, clear instructions.
A "must read" topic. Nice one, Darren :!:

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Darren we have just got to have your article on the ridge pieces as a separate item in the Hints, Tips & Smaller Projects section as well as on here of course. If you don't have the time I can do it for you. If you do want to do it however could you start your pictures off with one of your station building with the pieces in situ.

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Darren

A very clever solution, which I would never have thought of. This forum is so useful for picking up great ideas :idea:

Bob(K)

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What a build and i love the way the problems are sorted and then put on here to let us all know the solution on various things if we ever need it. What a bunch of guys.
Great looking station and i look forward to the rest.
Phill

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Who needs a telly when you have this - absolutely amazing Darren. :shock: :shock:

Les

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Folks thankyou for the encouragement. I ended doing a picture set as I tried describing it and thought that no would understand what I had described!

I have posted this in the tips section as suggested by Bob

Darren

Last edited on Tue Aug 19th, 2008 12:23 pm by

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Thanks Darren, much appreciated.

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Darren - I return to the valley flashings - sorry I forgot the earlier picture of them being fitted - how do you print them off using excel ? Is there a function to colour the columns ? I've only used excel as a normal B/W spreadsheet :oops: :oops:

Petermac

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Petermac, excel can not only add colour but patterns also. See screenshot for adding colour :




Some straightforward instructions can also be found here for adding colour and patterns :

http://www.ehow.com/how_2020053_add-background-excel.html        Defunct Link


Best Regards
Darren

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Thanks for that Darren - these computers are amazing things - I could never do that on my old abacus !!! :lol: :lol: :lol:

Petermac

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I can't even do it on my NEW abacus. :cry: :cry: :cry:

Les

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Les wrote:I can't even do it on my NEW abacus. :cry: :cry: :cry:

Les


:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Petermac

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Back to the bargeboards tommorrow now that work is finished for the week..

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Have now installed the bargeboards - there was a fair bit of cutting and finessing to get them looking consistent. Need to let the whole lot dry before sanding/getting trial fit for gutters.

In the meantime back to the structure proper and I have now repaired the rear of the building where the mid section and end wall had come away from one another. (see the first pic below) I had to remove the door unit (see it to the left on the second pic below - it needs a little tweak anyway as door lintle is too thick) so that I could get the mini clamps in place to glue a stronger joints (i had used white glue on this originally but had not yet discovered the joys of using the Aleenes sticky glue which is not only stronger but can take flexing etc)







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darrenscots wrote:...........i had used white glue on this originally but had not yet discovered the joys of using the Aleenes sticky glue which is not only stronger but can take flexing etc).....

Ah- sticky glue. I've always found that to be the best! :wink: :roll: :lol: :lol:

This project is an absolute cracker. Whilst I'm not into 'cardboard boxes' ([size=9]sorry :? ) myself, I have to admit that you are going to end up with a model to be proud of, Darren. I doubt if I will ever venture into the realms of card modelling to the degree that you and Bob (amongst others) have done, albeit superbly, but I have to concede that it looks almost as good as a plastikard one! :wink: :roll: :roll:

All joking apart, I think you have shown anyone thinking of starting out in card modelling just what can be achieved with patience.

Well done - an excellent job.

Perry

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Darren - judging by the clamps you are using, that building must be pretty darned strong !! Looks wonderful. :wink:

Petermac

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I can't believe those clamps!!!! You would think it would crush the card. Am I not thinking right? Is card that strong!!! I would never be able to do that with the models I have been making, but they are like 1/10th the size of yours.

Great job too, I like the pealing paint on the door!!!

Wayne

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Thank you for the positive encouragement. Wayne re the clamps, they are mini type and can be finely adjusted to give firm (but not not necessarily crushing) pressure. I think I bought them at Wal-Mart.

I fabricated the gutters (see the silver mini-screw driver in the pic (as modified with a file a la Perry fashion) and downpipes. I used an old disposable noodle bowl with hot water to make the round tube pliable before bending the downpipes (i tried the hair drier but this was unwieldy)







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Got stuck into painting the bargeboards, gutters and downpipes. Tried test panel with Dark Blue but didnt like the look so went for flat black instead.







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What a fantastic build, been following this with a keen interest. Well done on this project its truly amazing to be honest, what you can build out of card is amazing these days.
Just a quick question, would card and plastic card models look out of place together on a layout, all be it they would be apart from each other?.
Only wondering as i am toying doing a plastercard model but i also have load of card models as well.
Phill

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I echo what Phil says Darren a fantastic build :) Phil I have plastik kits and card kits together on layout even a couple of skale dale buildings aswell if you detail the card kits ( gutters downpipes etc ) they dont look out of place with the others .

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What a great looking project!!! I love the detail work too. I think the detail makes the model. So many times I've seen models built and just not "completely" finished. Not so with this one! Superb!!!

Can you tell me what diameter are your downspouts?

Wayne

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Spent the morning trial fitting the gutters and drainpipes again (I had made the downpipes overlength just in case....)

Wayne Williams wrote:
Can you tell me what diameter are your downspouts?
Wayne


Wayne the materials i have used (please note that these are larger than prototypical but I can live with it) :
1. Downpipe : 2.5mm (0.100") Rod
2. Gutter : 3.2mm (0.125") Half Round

phill wrote:
Just a quick question, would card and plastic card models look out of place together on a layout, all be it they would be apart from each other?.
Only wondering as i am toying doing a plastercard model but i also have load of card models as well.
Phill


My opinion for what its worth, is that I agree with Brian(G) and Wayne, the key thing is what the building looks like including details - I have seen some Hornby "toy" like buildings that have been subsequently superdetailed to make them look realistic. I take my inspiration from the likes of Pendon : http://www.pendonmuseum.com/modelling/techniques/index.html
and also the Inversnecky and Drambuie layout started after the WWII and scratchbuilt well before the fantastic modelling aids that we have today :
http://www.btinternet.com/~two.mm/layouts/inversnecky/inversnecky.htm       Redundant Link

In addition I am also a believer that there is no right material - its what looks right to the builder for the job envisaged (and these can be the most inexpensive material(s)). Right now the materials I have used so far on the Tain Railway Station build are (i am sure I have forgotten something):

Paper
Card (Various Thicknesses)
Brass
Aluminium
Styrene
Wood
Acetate

The reality is that I could have purchased some of the items ready-made but being in the US meant I had limited access to 00 Gauge items (HO being the equivalent popular gauge) and would have to order and wait for items to come from overseas/mail order from the limited stockists in the US.

Rant over and back to the build I installed an angle to rest the rear of the awing (the unseen part below the eaves) and glued this in position now that the roof slating is complete (the angle had to be pushed out further from 90 degress and I again used my trusty noodle pot and hot water). Before I installed the angle I scribed the planking as to do so after installation of the angle would have been difficult.

Once this has dried off then I will set to fabricating the downpipes for the awning and painting all that matt black as well as the columns and front angle section of the awning (currently unpainted white in the picture).

My copy of British Railway Modelling has arrived from the UK so I am away to pore over that!!







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I have now installed the downpipes to the awning and painted it up.

Whilst this was drying I took took out the plinths I had made some months ago in readiness for the platform side gables (see first picture below) and then completed and installed them.

I have shown in the second picture current progress however awning is shown in place only (not fixed) and the down pipes are hanging free on either sude and not fixed to the wall yet. (its a bit dark but leaving the flash on meant plinths were not clear)








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Stunning Darren - just stunning. :wink: :wink:

Petermac

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Wow, Darren, just Fantastic!!! Isn't it great when it all comes together? :D :D :D

Do you have a prototype picture that you are building to?

Wayne

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Looks tasty Darren .Well done mate.

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No doubt about it, a model to be proud of.                                             

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Wayne Williams wrote:Wow, Darren, just Fantastic!!! Isn't it great when it all comes together? :D :D :D

Do you have a prototype picture that you are building to?

Wayne


Wayne, I collected lots from the internet but to avoid any copyright issues I have shown a link below of a later pic of Tain Station (some colours are different eg columns on the awning). If you look carefully as well you can see Tain Station in my Avatar and Signature Pics.

http://rniescottishailwayrchive.fotopic.net/p25209682.html             Redundant Link

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Almost done then, Darren?

A really nice piece of modelling. First Class!

Perry

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Perry wrote:Almost done then, Darren?

A really nice piece of modelling. First Class!

Perry


Thanks Perry, but still some way to go - current to do list is as follows :

1. Plinths at the rear of the building
2. Chimney Pots
3. Signboards
4. Tin advertising signs
5. Install gutters & downpipes
6 . Support columns at the rear of the building
7. Touch -up roof slates
8. Scribed the stonework all round
9 . There is more but thats enough for now....

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Completed the plinths and entrance corners stonework at the rear (first pic shows the entrance corners stonework part complete) , installation of roof above the door (see second pic and note this was not on my to do list..) and the fabrication of the central columns (shown temporarily in position in the last pic) this afternoon. As per the prototype the base at the bottom of the entrance columns is of a a greater depth than the awning columns at the opposite platform side. The base was made of two layers of styrene.

Have to shut down now as back to work tommorrow so wont be back to this properly until next Friday evening..










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Super job mate, well done, love the detail in the roof and door colouring.

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Absolutely brilliant Darren,you should be very proud of yourself :D

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brilliant mate absolutly. :shock: :lol: :lol: 8)

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Positively Fantastic!!!

I had a look at the link you posted Darren, You have done a superb build, one you should be very proud of.

Wayne

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After a very long week at work I am glad to be back to the model !!!

I painted the columns at the rear of the building (shown as sitting temporarily in place below) and started scribing the stonework at the front. In addition i installed the chimney pots using the epoxy putty (in lieu of Milliput) - boy does it set quick!!!

I made up the putty for each chimney stack (its two part is simply kneaded together) one at a time as it went hard so quickly (i could of course have removed some of the hardener from the mix) Pots are part painted for now and will be weathered and blackened. Epoxy will also be tweaked/fettled/weathered.

Tommorrow is for more scribing....










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Looks fantastic Darren well done :)

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Well done Darren! Very interesting following what you are doing here.

Wayne

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Superb build Darren.

Something I've just noticed on looking at the pics again - the "scuffed" doorway !! Maybe you've laready explained it - if so, my apologies and I'll re-read - if not - how on earth did you achieve that effect ? It looks totally real. Ity's the blue door to the right of the awning I'm talking about. :roll: :roll:

Petermac

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A brilliant achievement Darren you have created a totally unique station which is always going to have a special place on your layout.
And thanks for the regular updates and progress reports which i have been reading since you started
After finishing this im sure no building will seem unmakeble to you.
well done

cheers Brian.W

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Thank you everyone for your encouragement - sometimes knowing that I am due for another installment update does keep me at it rather than leaving it for another day.

Today I have been doing a lot of internet surfing in order to get the posters ready.

I prepared the poster boards using word :

1. Create Table with two rows
2. Typed "LMS" in the top row (suitably small font, centred and changed to white text) and then insert black shading
3. Sized it to rough size, printed it out, compared to actual size required and the resized/tweak a little further
4. Insert picture into the second row and size appropriately.
5. Click in resized picture and find the size that is required.
6. Copy and paste the completed poster (the now standard template) as many time as you need for the others to be created however remove the picture to allow clean paste of the other graphics.
7. Go to you directory with your graphics files and make a new directory for resized pictures and copy them in there. Resize each to the required size as per the first poster dimensions.
8. Insert picture into the standard templates you have created
9. Print to card.

I still have to create the frames now...







darrenscots
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Petermac wrote:Superb build Darren.

Something I've just noticed on looking at the pics again - the "scuffed" doorway !! Maybe you've laready explained it - if so, my apologies and I'll re-read - if not - how on earth did you achieve that effect ? It looks totally real. Ity's the blue door to the right of the awning I'm talking about. :roll: :roll:

Petermac


Petermac, no apologies required, ask away - I am more than happy to discuss.

The door is a high resolution image - scalescenes doors are created that way however there are lots of websites out there that allow you to download these type of images for free. In addition there are lots of doors out there in the world that one day you will pass one and say mmm that would make a good door for my....snap away

I will also attempt at some stage a real flaking paint door (not for this build) as i understand that this can be achieved by using artists masking fluid to provide that effect.

owen69
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Darren,waiting impatiantly to see it in place on the layout,
but take your time i will just bite the bullet. :wink: :wink: :wink: :lol: :lol: 8)

vinny
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Great Darren,you could turn your hand to making anything after doing that :D :D

darrenscots
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After trying a few different ways of creating the notice boards (styrene versus thick card) I ended up using a methodology of drawing out a thin card template and gluing a wooden frame to it (yes the wooden coffee stirrers come to the rescue again!!) - frame was made from thin slices cut from the coffee stirrers.

First picture shows the production line.

Second picture shows frames cut out and drying before final trim and paint. A completed version is shown sitting against the wall.







darrenscots
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Finished painting of the sign boards and installed the posters. Some final fettling and touch-up required but that can be done once they are installed. The posters are a neat fit and not glued in (allowing easy change in the future)




vinny
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Good grief they look amazing :shock: :shock: :D

phill
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What a build, the building the minor detail's, posters, just evrything is amazing. What a great job you have done. I love ready this thread each and every time you update.
Phill

Wayne Williams
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Holy cow!!! I leave for a day and I can't believe what has transpired. Nice job and explanation Darren. I will have to file this away, worth it's weight in gold!!!

Wayne

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Excellent, Darren. Just excellent. All of it :D

Mike

darrenscots
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I spent the day affixing the signboards as well as downloading some period adverts (dont require a backboard as would have been enamel affixed directly to the building structure) The adverts were printed to card and affixed directly to the walls. Some of the adverts were tweaked using GIMP software to remove camera flash and rust spots. Pictures show awning temporarily in place (ignore the wayword looking downpipes for now) as I dont intend fixing that in place until I am all complete as I am bound to forget something that will require access!!!)

(You can get the GIMP here :

http://www.gimp.org/downloads/

I have used not only GIMP for my build of this but previously for my GMAX Virtual Modelling for Trainz)

Current to do list is as follows :

1. Install fabricated gutters,downpipes & awning
2. Touch -up roof slates/exposed card edges/chimneys
3. Complete scribing the stonework all round
4. Look at the tall windows again - may redo these as I thing I can now do a better job of these!
5. One more poster signboard at the rear entrance - an LMS/HR Railway notice type at the front door (still havent found a good one yet - either a late HR or an early LMS Railway at HR takeover (ie early 20s) is required - the ones I have found so far are from HR 1902 or LMS (during WWII)
6. Thats enough to be going on with!










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Amazing,what more can you say :!: :!: You will feel so proud every time you look at that on your layout :D :D :D

rector
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Superb, Darren. This is a classic thread. 8) 8)

darrenscots
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Thankfully finished work for the week so back to the station and onto the clock. Downloaded some pix from the net and printed to card. The backing is a preformed round knock out from a spray can cover (just some trimming to complete) I found it easier to use sharp scissors to cut the clock out rather than the round edge scalpel.

Painted the edges matt black.

Will glue it on the wall tomorrow.













Marty
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Very neat, I like the concept of collecting images from the net and printing to card.
Not looking forward to doing a clock in N gauge... look how small yours is in 00 :o :shock: :(

Wayne Williams
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Nicely done Darren, but I just don't see how you are going to put a "nail" in the wall to hang it up with. :shock: :shock: :shock: :roll: :lol:

Wayne

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Wayne Williams wrote:Nicely done Darren, but I just don't see how you are going to put a "nail" in the wall to hang it up with. :shock: :shock: :shock: :roll: :lol:

Wayne


The clock has been installed with "invisible" nails. I have also started replacement of the tall windows with a new template that fits better plus took the opportunity of fettling the bottom sill on each. The pic below shows the new unit installed on the far left - it doesnt look much different in the photo but to the naked eye there is a perceptable difference (the old units were too short and showed too much white card)







darrenscots
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Completed the renovation of the tall windows today and then started making the brackets for the gutter downpipes - i spotted some plastic coffee stirrers which have a diameter slightly bigger than the downpipe and cut that into small rings for the bracket. I initially glued these to timber pieces from wooden coffee stirrers but this wasnt strong enough. I used styrene instead as the backing piece and superglued these to the plastic coffee stirrer rings (see attached diagram as they are too small to photograph well) I wanted to make sure that the downpipe could be released from the bracket as I want to keep the roof removable for now. I have done this by cutting the ring but this is not visible.




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Darren

More excellent work, this really is a super project. I like the way you have produced worn and weathered doors. Could you explain how you achieved that effect, or if you have already done so where it is in the thread. It is something I have been trying to do for years, but have never got it quite right. Yours look great.

Bob(K)

phill
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What a fantastic thread this is, i which to place my order for one. How much would you charge :D :D .
Seriously this is fascinating and i see you have a thing with coffe stirrers, you got a deal with them or something :D :D
I have to keep reading most of the thread to remember how you achieved a certain thing when i look at your pics.
Phill

darrenscots
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Novice wrote:Darren

More excellent work, this really is a super project. I like the way you have produced worn and weathered doors. Could you explain how you achieved that effect, or if you have already done so where it is in the thread. It is something I have been trying to do for years, but have never got it quite right. Yours look great.

Bob(K)




Thanks Bob, the doors are high resolution as per scalescenes ,


phill wrote:
What a fantastic thread this is, i which to place my order for one. How much would you charge :D :D .
Seriously this is fascinating and i see you have a thing with coffe stirrers, you got a deal with them or something :D :D
I have to keep reading most of the thread to remember how you achieved a certain thing when i look at your pics.
Phill


Thanks Phill, I really do wish I could do it full time but the day job pays much better!. Re coffee stirrers, at 75p equivalent for a box of 100 it makes for cheap modelling supplies. Even my wife keeps cardboard shapes, plastic from the household waste for me now in case i can find a modelling need for them!

Last edited on Tue Aug 19th, 2008 12:24 pm by

darrenscots
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This morning I touched up the downpipe brackets ready for installation. I then went on to blacken up the internal of the chimney pots with acrylic paint and deliberately blackened the tops and sides a little and wiped away with kitchen paper. The rest of the blackening of the chimney pots will be done with chalks. See pic below of the "bib" just to avoid any last minute disasters with spills of paint on the roof...







darrenscots
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This evening I started installation of the drainpipes and gutters. See pic below.

See also below items marked in red where further work is required to blend in the pints to the end walls to remove the exposed ends. All scribing of the stonework is complete.

Current to do list :

1. Signboards (one final next to rear door)
2. Install gutters & downpipes (ongoing)
3. Touch -up roof slates/flashings/chimneys




darrenscots
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Completed the downpipes & gutters today as well as the additional signboard that I will leave blank for now till the right poster comes along.

I also painted the eaves and exposed edges which show when roof is installed. Lots of fettling left to do but as its the end of the weekend that will have to wait another week now.

PS my picture that I bought from ebay arrived yesterday...the (now demolished) two road engine shed which will be one of my future projects - this one is going to be a challenge. I have one pic (the one referenced) and a drawing which shows the overall plan shape only. The next project will be the two signal boxes (they are not the same) but will have to wait till I finish this project first.










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Darren ,first class.

vinny
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Priceless :D

Marty
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Darren, I would be very pleased if I had managed to scratchbuild something to this standard.
A unique station for your layout.
Well done and many thanks for the step by step progress reports.
cheers

Dukedog
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Nice work!
You have put a great deal of work into this project, Excellent drawings and 3D picture, not to mention the modeling!
I too will follow this thread with great interest.

phill
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Brilliant job mate, just how you going to pack that without breaking will be interesting when u have to move.
Phill

darrenscots
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Thanks folks for the positive encouragement. Its been a crazy week at work and I am looking forward to getting back to the model on Friday evening.

Re the packing - I dont want to think about it right now(too much stress!!!)

I just received my photo from Ebay of Tain Station in its LMS days (its the pic in my signature block (lots of detail to look at with my magnifiying glass - I am bound to find something I havent done yet!!)

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Darren - that's a stunning build and the finished article looks fantastic. It's guys like you who are an inspiration to the rest of us and we come back to these build time and time again to see how "you" do it.

Brilliant. :wink: :wink:

Petermac

darrenscots
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Today I have been busy testing the final protective coating on the printed elements after hearing horror stories over sprays that left a shiny residue. I am absolutely delighted with the finish on my test panel of two coats. You would never know it was there (the only way is by touching an uncoated and coated piece)

I have also started on the next project...see separate posting.




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darren im pleased it worked well for you its always a fear in the back of your mind it could cock up the whole project.

you could use that stuff to affix weathering powders on you locos.

cheers Brian.w

Wayne Williams
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Darren, do you think that spray could be used to seal the painting on a palsticard scratchbuilt model like for instance a "Silo"? :roll: :roll: :roll:

Also, I gotta have one of those "Choppers"!!!!!!!

Wayne :lol: :lol: :lol:

darrenscots
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Wayne Williams wrote:Darren, do you think that spray could be used to seal the painting on a palsticard scratchbuilt model like for instance a "Silo"? :roll: :roll: :roll:

Also, I gotta have one of those "Choppers"!!!!!!!

Wayne :lol: :lol: :lol:


I checked the can and it does say that it for use on painted surfaces and can be used on papier mache, plaster so it would be worth trying on your test panel


                 

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