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Small Corner Shops (TO 23) - Scalescenes Building Kits. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club | ||||||||||
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Petermac Moderator ![]()
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I've mentioned elsewhere that this kit has required the call up of some reserve brain cells which had long since been considered redundant. If anyone needs 18 rear walls, 4 left-hand front walls, a right hand roof with left handed tiles and 12 upside down floor/ceiling panels, please contact me ................ ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Having read the instructions through to the end (several times), I think I'm now on the right tracks. Herewith, some shots of progress to date: Firstly, a wall panel. Here, I made the mistake of assuming the shop windows should be fitted at the same time as the upstairs windows. I couldn't for the life of me understand why they didn't go inside like the upstairs ones, nor why they were the odd mm too small. After re-printing and even thinking about printing at 110% I finally realised they are fitted later with a "window surround" to cover them. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() Just requiring the final side to complete the shell, you can see how the structure is made up into a very strong box. I copied Metcalf Models idea of mounting the curtains on some scrap to give some relief although the blind is glued directly to the wall. The card used is some "grey" card I purchased in bulk quite reasonably from "Seawhite of Brighton" - both 1mm and 2mm. I'd had problems with "Cornflake" card de-laminating in the past and also the number of laminations needed to build up to 2mm so decided to buy some "proper" stuff. ![]() An aerial view of the above structure. I'm still a little baffled by the "inset" shop door wall on the angle (which is as it should be according to the instructions). Hopefully, all will become clear once I start building the window surrounds etc. You'll also note my ruler doesn't seem to be very accurate .................... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() The final wall has to be positioned using a try square to make sure the back is "straight" ready for the terraced houses to join the shop kit. The "row" will continue down towards 4 O'clock on the screen with several houses and end with an opposite handed corner shop. ![]() With the last wall sitting (but not glued) in place, this is what the main carcase will look like. There's a gable wall to be glued to the far end which will form the party wall of the terrace. I may put some furniture and people in the next one but this one is a try-out test build. Once it's done, I'll have a btter idea of how much interior detail can actually be seen. At present, I have no plans to light it. ![]() They are fun to build, if a little time consuming but for this type of kit, the main advantage is in the ability to reproduce a whole housing estate from one single purchase. ____________________ 'Petermac |
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ddolfelin Straight man to the stars. ![]()
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"At present, I have no plans to light it." Much too good to put a match to it, Peter. ____________________ http://dddioramas.webs.com/ 11 + 2 = 12 + 1 |
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Brossard Member ![]()
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I built a row of shops along with 2 corner shops. The whole scene took me ages to complete. When doing the street, I started by using the Scalescenes road kit which ended up as a disaster. I wound up redoing the road in plastic card.![]() Retaining walls are also Scakescenes. Not very happy with these either and will use plastic next time. John ____________________ John |
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MaxSouthOz Admin ![]()
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It's looking pretty good so far, Peter. ![]() ____________________ Max Port Elderley |
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Petermac Moderator ![]()
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MaxSouthOz wrote: ............................... We don't often get to see your work. ......................... I'll be watching. Thanks Max - that's probably because I don't do much ............... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ____________________ 'Petermac |
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Stubby47 Welsh exile ![]()
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If you are intending to make a row of houses next to the shop, you could make them all on the same piece of cardboard, rather than as individual kits. The front wall and the roof should be easy to do like this, it will probably be quicker and more stable. Just a thought. Stu ( who is about to build the Arched Bridge kit). ____________________ Stubby47's Model Buildings - http://www.styubby47.co.uk All photos I post are ©Stu Hilton, but are free for use by anyone. The Chacewater to Newquay Railway: Shepherds Halt, Shepherds Station, The Treamble Branch |
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rector Now where did I put that...? ![]()
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It looks great, Peter - and I speak as one who has never built a Scalescenes model in his life. (I'm waiting for some U.S. prototypes to be modelled![]() How many screws were used? ![]() ![]() ____________________ Tim. Cleric and artist, finding his railway modelling stuff after too long in the wilderness. |
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Petermac Moderator ![]()
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Stubby47 wrote: If you are intending to make a row of houses next to the shop, you could make them all on the same piece of cardboard, rather than as individual kits. The front wall and the roof should be easy to do like this, it will probably be quicker and more stable. Not sure what you mean by that Stu ........... ![]() The kits are designed as "modular" rather than whatever length you like. Each gable between every pair of houses creates a definite break point as the houses sit "inside" the gables (which are slightly taller than the roof line) if you understand. One gable end forms the inner gable of the next house. I'll post a photo of what I mean shortly. I did once use just the base layers in an experiment with Linka plaster castings and did away with these gable "breaks". It caused all kinds of problems with the tile laying. I could of course, have used different tiles but that would probably have negated the point of using the kits in the first place. ____________________ 'Petermac |
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Petermac Moderator ![]()
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Thanks Tim. I do think they look good (not remotely in the same league as Doug's offerings) but they are great kits. Unfortunately, I can take little credit for their looks - that's all down to the clever design work of our Mr Wiffen. How many screws ? Only my brain got screwed up on this occasion but I might place a Policeman somewhere on the finished article .......................... ![]() ![]() ![]() ____________________ 'Petermac |
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Stubby47 Welsh exile ![]()
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Peter, I didn't realise the gabels projected above the roof line, so having a one piece roof for many properties (as I suggested) would not be possible. But, if the from walls of the houses are all inline, with no projections, then rather than use a small piece of cardboard for each house, then joining the houses together, you could use a long piece of cardboard for the front of several houses, and attach the individual printed house fronts as appropriate. ![]() Hope that's a bit clearer. Stu ____________________ Stubby47's Model Buildings - http://www.styubby47.co.uk All photos I post are ©Stu Hilton, but are free for use by anyone. The Chacewater to Newquay Railway: Shepherds Halt, Shepherds Station, The Treamble Branch |
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Petermac Moderator ![]()
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These shot are primarily for you Stu. ![]() Each internal gable is designed to locate the next building. Internal panels are glued on creating "slots" into which the next floor/ central wall fits. The final operation is to glue the facades into the spaces between the gables. ![]() A close-up of the next gable which is self-explanatory - ![]() The roof formers for the corner shop are shown here. You can see from the printing that the gables are quite a bit higher than the roof line. This was a common building practice in those days. The "load bearing structure" was the longitudinal internal wall and the gables. The floors and facades, front and back, "hung" on these strong walls. ![]() This kit is designed to be either left handed or right handed so, together with the terraced house kit, can be made up into a row of terraces as long or short as you like, with a corner shop at each end, or, simply end with a house. The choice is yours. When you decide enough is enough, you just cover the final gable with the external brick/stone paper. Additionally, any one of the terraced houses can be made into a shop by swapping the "house" facade for a "shop" facade. Clever eh ??? ![]() ____________________ 'Petermac |
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Stubby47 Welsh exile ![]()
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Thanks for the explanation Peter. I see that what I thought would work obviously won't, as each gable is both wider and higher than the associated front/rear wall and roof. You've made an excellent job of that building, Doug would be proud ! ____________________ Stubby47's Model Buildings - http://www.styubby47.co.uk All photos I post are ©Stu Hilton, but are free for use by anyone. The Chacewater to Newquay Railway: Shepherds Halt, Shepherds Station, The Treamble Branch |
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Petermac Moderator ![]()
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Stubby47 wrote:.................................... It's kind of you Stu but no he wouldn't !! He'd probably think his "tutorials" on here were a waste of time in my case.................. ![]() ![]() ![]() Any "quality" in this build is totally down to John Wiffen - I will however, take full credit for the mistakes. ![]() I wonder if the gables could be cut slightly narrower, thus fitting "inside" the facades to accomdate your ideas of single card faces although it wouldn't work for the roof. ![]() ![]() ____________________ 'Petermac |
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brianpr1 Former Member
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The shop looks really good, I look forward to seeing the whole row. I've made a start today on the arched bridge and I'm planning a similar row of shops and houses. Are your window frames as standard in the kit or are you using the Brassmasters version? Any comments on the merits of each type? |
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Petermac Moderator ![]()
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Thanks Brian. I haven't used the Brassmasters frames on any of my Sclaescenes builds as yet. I probably will do one day but my printer can handle acetate (with some difficulty ![]() I do enjoy these kits. They're not quick to build but they're fun and enormously strong. During the summer, spare time is short so I tend to dip in for an hour or so then leave it until the next "slack" time. It would be great to see your arched bridge build. That would be a new one for me. ![]() ____________________ 'Petermac |
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brianpr1 Former Member
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Petermac wrote: It would be great to see your arched bridge build. That would be a new one for me. It is the double track version of the one lower down the topic list, described as "The Bridge" by Sol. I'll be away for a week or so but I will start a topic when I get back. |
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Petermac Moderator ![]()
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I'll look forward to it Brian. ![]() ____________________ 'Petermac |
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Petermac Moderator ![]()
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A bit more progress. The outer shell close to being finished - the shop fittings are attached to the floor section and this shell is then glued over the whole floor: ![]() A close-up of the as yet unfitted shop area. I found the facia boards didn't quite match up with the dimensions so made a mess of the nameboards - hence the "patch". I also notice the above door panel isn't level. ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() This shows where the row of terraces will attach: ![]() The roof still requires the ridge tiles but I did try some modifications as demonstrated out by others (notably Doug) and fitted the odd slipped tile and a broken one. I also eased up the bottom edge of the strips to give slight relief to an otherwise "flat" roof - I obviously need more practice ...............: ![]() I actually cut the roof into separate sections because I found it nearly impossible to glue the tiles on with it made up with just a single join. I strengthened the internal ridge joints with gummed paper. ____________________ 'Petermac |
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Chubber Casseroled Badger ![]()
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Love the 'slipped' slates! Pure Ahern.. You are doing well! That is a tricky kit, all those angles are difficult, one little repeated error adds up very quickly. You might consider re-printing the ridge tile strip on watercolour paper if your printer will take it [90lb stuff] or thin card, and then cutting the strip into 'purpose' tiles as below. They are reasonably authentic, and the 'dovetail' shape takes the eye away from ny miss-match of slate line-up especially if you miss-cut the occasional one by about 1/2mm [damn...another secret blown...] Press the back of your knife blade across the black line to give a textured appearnce if you feel like it, too. You'll think of something to fill the 'Spar' space....design and print off something to paste over it......'Peters Perfect Pork Pies' ? ![]() If not, I'll print you off one from John's High Street series, I'm sure he won't mind as it's to go on a S'Scenes model. Regards to Liz, have you had the 98F all this week, too? Doug ____________________ 'You may share the labours of the great, but you will not share the spoil...' Aesop's Fables "Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin In the land of the slap-dash and implausible, mediocrity is king |
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MaxSouthOz Admin ![]()
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I like it. ![]() ____________________ Max Port Elderley |
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