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May have messed up? - On Members Workbenches. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Jul 24th, 2011 04:13 am
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Black5
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I went to a show a few weeks ago and talked to a bloke that had made water for his layout from PVA... it looked good and I thought I would try it.
Now he did say it would take days to go off but... I don't think it's working.
Does anyone know if the PVA will (eventually) dry clear?
I thought I might have put it on a tad thick so I scraped it off but, not sure it's going to work.

Any thoughts on this.?

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 Posted: Sun Jul 24th, 2011 05:56 am
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Marty
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Yeah, if you put it on too thick it won't dry clear. Or, at least, that is what I found.

I did a series of experiments... Let me see if I can find the thread.... Stand-by... I maybe gone for some time!
..
..
..
Ah, right here we go... This may help...

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=3870&forum_id=59

In summary, the two pack furniture sealing resin that you can get at the hardware store for protecting your outdoor furniture was in my opinion the best for making water features.

A thin layer of PVA over a painted river bed works well too, but any attempt at depth will usually end up with a cloudy mess.

Hope that helps.



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 Posted: Sun Jul 24th, 2011 10:44 am
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Black5
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I'm in the process of of scraping it off and how hard is that... b.ugger

Think the bloke sent me up the garden path :cry:

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 Posted: Sun Jul 24th, 2011 10:49 am
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Black5
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Can the PVA be thinned down to make it easier with Hot Water to scrape off??

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 Posted: Sun Jul 24th, 2011 12:26 pm
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SRman
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A series of thin layers is the way to go. I did this with the stream on my old layout. Oddly enough, while the last layer was drying it remained partially white and looked really, really good, like flowing water. Unfortunately, it did dry completely clear!



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 Posted: Sun Jul 24th, 2011 02:18 pm
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Black5
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A series of thin layers is the way to go. I did this with the stream on my old layout.

Can you explain what you mean as I'm a tad lost:hmm

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 Posted: Mon Jul 25th, 2011 12:03 am
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Gwent Rail
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You may (or may not) be familiar with the work of Alan Downes, one of the scenic gurus of UK modelling. His method of using PVA for water is to paint the bed with a thin coat and let it dry. It will go clear. Then paint another thin coat and let it dry clear. Then another, then another, then another and so on until the desired thickness is achieved. I guess that's the method that SRman is talking about.

With each coat taking a couple of days to dry clear, I say that life is too short, so I'll reach for the "majic Water" resin (or whatever brand I choose) and get it done in two or three pours. :thumbs:thumbs

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 Posted: Mon Jul 25th, 2011 01:44 am
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Black5
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Jeff, what I was asking was 'I did this with the stream on my old layout'... it lost me a bit:hmm

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 Posted: Mon Jul 25th, 2011 06:54 am
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Myansome
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:hmm I have used PVA in school over thirty years. It could be easily diluted with water for different effects and did slowly dry clear. From a school point of view it could be washed out of clothes unlike  copydex. I have used PVA for a cheap varnish on areas of the layout. The sea on mine was papier mache, tissue and a type of varnish if I remember. But in no way would mine pass the "Exhibition" arena ........................ A New Dawn is for kids; big and small!

hey ho .......... Have fun!



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 Posted: Mon Jul 25th, 2011 07:26 am
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Dukedog
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Just to confirm what John has said above.

I stuck some slate to my layout using diluted PVA and some accidentally run along the roadway. It dried clear and shiny so, it does work. Even if you didn't want it to!

Cheers!

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 Posted: Tue Jul 26th, 2011 09:18 am
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Bob K
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I use PVA for small ponds and puddles etc and it looks pretty good. One issue I have noticed is that sometimes you get a pronounced dip in the middle of a small area of 'water' caused by surface tension.

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 Posted: Tue Jul 26th, 2011 11:29 am
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ddolfelin
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Yes, I've just made some drinking troughs in 'N' and used clear nail varnish.
In this scale it's impossible to overcome the meniscus.
Not that it shows.



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