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Kadee magnetic uncoupling - Layout Design, Trackwork & Operation. - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Thu May 12th, 2011 01:17 pm
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Perry
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It's just a case of orienting the magnets the way you need them, Owen. That's the reason I settled upon cube-shaped ones. The round ones have the poles on the flat surfaces, so would have to be mounted on edge - something I didn't fancy trying to do.

The ideal would have been a 15mm x 3mm x 3mm magnets with the opposing poles on the 3mm x 3mm ends. I couldn't locate a source for any like this though. They all had the poles on the 15mm faces. :sad:

Perry



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 Posted: Thu May 12th, 2011 01:40 pm
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Sol
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Perry wrote


Sol also tried other ways of doing it, but I believe he also settled on the three rows of five. Yes I did




  .......................but after lots of testing, the rows of five seemed to work best for me. and me

Perry

I found the same as Perry- a couple of magnets confused the arms.

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 Posted: Thu May 12th, 2011 02:08 pm
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Stubby47
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Ah, I didn't think of that... makes sense now you've said it.

Looking at how you've laid the magnets between the sleepers, would it be possible to remove a set of 3 sleepers and replace them with the magnets, maybe with a paper cover to hide the magnet joins, so leaving the ballast in between as if they were normal sleepers ?


Stu



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 Posted: Thu May 12th, 2011 02:22 pm
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Perry
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Stubby47 wrote: Ah, I didn't think of that... makes sense now you've said it.

Looking at how you've laid the magnets between the sleepers, would it be possible to remove a set of 3 sleepers and replace them with the magnets, maybe with a paper cover to hide the magnet joins, so leaving the ballast in between as if they were normal sleepers ?


Stu

I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work. Just be aware that these magnets are very strong, and unless they are securely held in place whilst the glue dries, you will return later to find that a whole row has cleared off to join it's mates all by itself. :shock: Don't ask me how I know this........:oops:

The sleepers may be of help in keeping them in place, but I'm sure you could come up with some other way of retaining them in position temporarily. I used a 2-part epoxy glue but Sol used ordinary PVA. Both seem to have worked OK.

Having said all that, once the ballast and some mucky paint has been thrown about, they are quite hard to see at normal viewing distances.

Perry



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 Posted: Thu May 12th, 2011 02:32 pm
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Sol
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A set of PUMS installed in a track - photo taken from about 20-22" away



I am very satisfied with these.

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 Posted: Thu May 12th, 2011 02:39 pm
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Perry
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PUMS! :roll::mutley:mutley

I had to look hard to spot them, Sol. :thumbs I suppose they could be painted the same colour as the ballast if required - not that I see any need to do it personally.

Perry



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 Posted: Thu May 12th, 2011 06:21 pm
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Geoff R
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That installation looks very good, Sol. They are very hard to see. Have you considered removing sleepers between the rails to fit them where the sleepers were, instead of in-between sleepers? Or is it not worth the bother? I only ask because I have had to cut away sleepers to fit the in-track Kadee magnets on my code 75 track, and it occurred to me that you would then not see your PUMS at all.

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 Posted: Thu May 12th, 2011 11:29 pm
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Sol
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I thought about it Geoff, but it would have to glue one magnet set at a time, wait 24 hours minimum before trying to glue the next & temporary separators will be needed coz as Perry mentioned above in Post #104, the magnets like each other so much, I think the sleepers help to keep them apart.

But saying that, yes, I think it would work if one is not impatient ! And as I type this, Peco track pins SL14's should, if using a hard baseboard, do the job of keeping the magnets strips apart while glue is drying & they will disappear in the ballast.

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 Posted: Mon May 16th, 2011 12:02 pm
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gdaysydney
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Prompted by this thread I ordered 100 of the  3mm x 3mm x 3mm Rare Earth Magnets to replace the Kadee magnets on my layout. As I use RR&Co I also wanted to extend the length of the uncoupling area to compensate for when locos do not stop in exactly the right spot when running under automation ( that over run or under run of  5mm can be very frustrating)

I quickly discovered that the idea of using the rare earth magnets just to extend the magnetic area of an existing Kadee magnet would not work.  I experimented and found that four magnets placed at alternate sleepers does the trick -  since I had already removed sleepers to accommodate the Kadee magnet I placed the four magnets at alternate sleepers  and replaced the sleepers in between.  

The four magnets fit nicely where the sleeper has been cut and there is no worry about creating shorts. I used super glue which sets in seconds and by using 24 magnets have created a length of 75mm compared to the Kadee magnet length of 50mm.  Its nowhere near as ugly and at A$15.00 per 100 I can replace four Kadee's with an area that is longer and meets my needs.

It has taken me 30 minutes to replace an existing Kadee, dig out some of the ballast, replace with the new magnets  replace sleepers and cut out new sleepers where I required the extra length of magnetic field and then re-ballast the area.  I feeling quiet pleased with myself as it has been a very productive half hour and means I get some time to "play trains"

Thanks guys:doublethumb
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 Posted: Tue Jun 28th, 2011 04:25 am
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Sol
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OK, just to extend this thread a bit more, I decided to use the 3mm magnets & replace sleepers with magnets like others have done.

Before cutting sleepers out



Sleepers are 1mm balsa now gone:



With 3mm cork, cut out the slots for the magnets



Added some 1mm Balsa into the slots - glued with PVA & smeared over the top as well to seal the balsa wood



Glued in the magnets using Super Glue



These are level with adjacent sleepers - now painted.


Now where have they gonequest:



They work like a dream BUT with a short range, you need to be slow & precise with shunting. I did have momentum in one loco & it is great fun to get it stopped exactly where you need it so I removed the electronic slowdown & let the control knob do the trick ( just like DC days).


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 Posted: Sun Jul 3rd, 2011 07:49 am
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Perry
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That's a really neat job, Sol!

I find it quite amusing how we find ways to hide and disguise things, then have to put markers in to show us where we put them. :shock::mutley

I'm glad that others are finding this method useful and are developing it futher. :thumbs

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Jul 3rd, 2011 11:43 am
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Sol
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I am replacing another Kadee bar magnet with these units & putting more in other selected locations & CraigSR has ordered 200 of the little devils to instal as well.

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 Posted: Sun Jul 3rd, 2011 05:46 pm
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Perry
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Sol wrote: I am replacing another Kadee bar magnet with these units & putting more in other selected locations & CraigSR has ordered 200 of the little devils to instal as well.
Suppliers of these magnets across the world must wonder what is going on. :mutley

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Jul 4th, 2011 12:18 pm
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As Ron indicated in a previous post I have ordered some and hopefulyy they will arrive here this week and when they do it will be busy, busy, busy!!

I saw Ron's in real life yesterday and he has done a first class job!

Craig



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 Posted: Fri Aug 19th, 2011 03:45 am
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Sol
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Below are 3 sets of PUM's showing the 3 stages - bottom has sleepers cutout & 3mm cork under removed with a 2mm piece of balsa glued back in. Middle track with magnets glued in & the top track  painted



Part of Charde and I have just ordered another 200 to finish the station off plus spares for Mynend & Watchit. The main station of Tawnton will be last.

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 Posted: Fri Aug 19th, 2011 03:48 am
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Once they're ballasted, you'll never spot them.  Much better than the big, ugly Kadees.  :thumbs



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 Posted: Sat Aug 20th, 2011 01:42 am
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Sol
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Ballasted now:-
close up



PVA nearly dry.
 

From the normal viewing distance


 

Thanks Perry for doing all the spadework on these magnets.

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 Posted: Sat Aug 20th, 2011 09:34 pm
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Perry
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Cheers, Ron. It seems it was well worth it, judging by the way the idea has been progressed by you and others on this forum since the method was first suggested.

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Aug 21st, 2011 12:59 am
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Sol
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Because of the liking of metal axles/wheels & magnets towards each other, I have ordered some Bachmann brass turned wheels 36-034 to see how they perform. ( or don't perform as the case maybe)
USA & Aust outline are catered well for non-magnetic wheels.

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 Posted: Sun Aug 21st, 2011 03:33 pm
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Perry
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I'll be glad to know the results when you've tested them. The magnets do rather 'grab' at items of stock at present.

Perry



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