Video Archive         Recent Topics      
YMR logo

You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > Getting You Started. > Layout Design, Trackwork & Operation. > Kadee magnetic uncoupling To bottom of page
                 

 Moderated by: Spurno Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  6  7  8  9  10  11   
Start New Topic Reply Printer Friendly

Kadee magnetic uncoupling - Layout Design, Trackwork & Operation. - Getting You Started. - Your Model Railway Club
AuthorPost
 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2017 11:16 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 201st post
Passed Driver
Full Member


Joined: Thu Feb 19th, 2015
Location: Peckham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2387
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Ron Thank you for your reply. I had read about that method and was about to do the same, until that is, I read the advice on "22nd March 2015" from Max, and I quote "No more waiting overnight for the 60;40 PVA mix to dry. No more unjamming the throw bars" ....  First, take your Fine Glue Applicator". Next I went out to a Mode Railway Show and porchased some "Fine Glue Applicators" with a pin blocking the hole, just fill the bottle with PVA, remove the pin and away you go, simple.
And maybe that is why ? I cannot reuse the track?      All the best. Kevin



____________________
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2017 01:05 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 202nd post
Petermac
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Nr Bergerac, France
Posts: 16253
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

The water added to the PVA is only to make it go further Kevin - the "glue" is still PVA so, unless you used "waterproof PVA" - i.e. exterior grade - soaking it should still disolve the bond.  PVA is water soluble (although not in the same manner as alka seltzer !!!)

Having read your last post Sol, remind me not to have a bath at your house after you've been "modifying" the layout - could prove a little "scratchy" .............. :lol: :lol: :lol: :cheers



____________________
'Petermac
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2017 01:07 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 203rd post
MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12232
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

To reuse the turnout, simply soak the area with water until the turnout lifts free with a scraper.   Then soak it until the PVA is washed away.  PVA is water soluble. 

In another post I reported that verdegris can be caused by soaking turnouts in water.




____________________
Max
Port Elderley
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2017 01:18 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 204th post
Passed Driver
Full Member


Joined: Thu Feb 19th, 2015
Location: Peckham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2387
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Petermac.   Thank you for your reply. I do like a good soak in the bath myself, but have been forced to using the shower, since Ihad a fright, when I couldn't get out of the bath. The PVA is really cheap £1.00 shop stuff, but it just don't want to budge.    All the best. Kevin



____________________
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2017 01:27 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 205th post
MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12232
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

You need patience.  It won't just fall of in a minute.



____________________
Max
Port Elderley
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2017 01:30 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 206th post
Passed Driver
Full Member


Joined: Thu Feb 19th, 2015
Location: Peckham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2387
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max.  Thank you for your reply. My experience of trying to lift a set of points was just the same with Peco flexitrack, where the rails were popping out of the chairs, with the points it was a complete disaster . And I left them for so long I had to use a duster soaked in water.to keep in the damp.    All the best. Kevin



____________________
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2017 01:35 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 207th post
MaxSouthOz
Admin


Joined: Sat Aug 23rd, 2008
Location: Adelaide , Australia
Posts: 12232
Status: 
Online

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Well, maybe I just imagined it.



____________________
Max
Port Elderley
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Sun Aug 27th, 2017 05:22 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 208th post
Passed Driver
Full Member


Joined: Thu Feb 19th, 2015
Location: Peckham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2387
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Max Thank you for your reply. I should have done my homework , then waited until I was completely satisfied with the layout, Uncoupling , etc. Before I committed myself to ballast. And that's another fine mess I got myself into!        All the best. Kevin



____________________
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Aug 29th, 2017 01:01 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 209th post
Passed Driver
Full Member


Joined: Thu Feb 19th, 2015
Location: Peckham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2387
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Ron,   As a result of further testing? Today 29th August 2017.I used Superglue, and glued a line of five 3mm cube Neodymium magnets to a piece of plasticard . When the glue had set, I placed a length of Peco code 75 on top, then I took two random wagons from my asorttment of Dapol, Bachmann , Oxford wagons. All fitted with Kadee #19 NEM pockets . To my surprise some of the "Pins" caught on the magnets in passing where others did not, even on the same wagon. But the wagons did uncouple. I will have to label the couplings that were too low and revisit the Kadee height gauge. And wedge a piece of Plasticard in the pocket to hold it up. My question being " what size of plasticard would you recommend ?"
All the best. Kevin



____________________
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Aug 29th, 2017 01:41 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 210th post
Petermac
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 13th, 2007
Location: Nr Bergerac, France
Posts: 16253
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

In addition Kevin, it's worth checking the curve on the trip arm.  Sometimes, this is too little and has the effect of dropping the bottom of the pin.  Kadee sell a special pair of round nosed pliers to bend the arm - don't try it with ordinary pliers !!!



____________________
'Petermac
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Aug 29th, 2017 02:20 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 211th post
Passed Driver
Full Member


Joined: Thu Feb 19th, 2015
Location: Peckham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2387
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Petermac wrote: In addition Kevin, it's worth checking the curve on the trip arm.  Sometimes, this is too little and has the effect of dropping the bottom of the pin.  Kadee sell a special pair of round nosed pliers to bend the arm - don't try it with ordinary pliers !!!
Hi Petermac.  Thank you for your reply. I am a silly Billy, when I wrote "pin", I just couldn't remember the word "trip"That is the word I associate with "cock" as in "Tripcock" the London Transport answer to safety,which has been fitted to the leading Bogie of an underground train, to apply the brakes if a train passes a red signal (SPAD).
All the best. Kevin



____________________
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Aug 29th, 2017 03:24 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 212th post
Sol
A modelling Moderator.


Joined: Mon Nov 28th, 2011
Location: Evanston Gardens, South Aust, Australia
Posts: 3552
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Kevin, I use a sliver of the thinnest of these https://kadee.com/htmbord/page211.htm
forced into the bottom of the box lifting the shank of the coupler up - that is if using the NEM 362 versions #17 - 20

BUT if you used the height gauge as per  https://kadee.com/html/205_206ins.pdf
the coupler trip pin should be clear of not only the normal Kadee magnet but well clear of the 3mm strip of magnets as they are level with sleepers.

Yes, one line will uncouple when you manual push wagons across it but use a loco and if you can stop every time over the one line of magnets to uncouple, your are " a perfect driver" but as that is almost impossible to do every time, that is why Perry & I recommend replacing 3 sleepers to give longer area to be able to stop over.



____________________
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Aug 29th, 2017 03:38 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 213th post
Passed Driver
Full Member


Joined: Thu Feb 19th, 2015
Location: Peckham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2387
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Ron.  Thank you for your reply. I agree with you but this was a test , and try as " one might?" It is a very clever man that can glue fifteen magnets in an orderly fashion in one go .   All the best. Kevin



____________________
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Aug 29th, 2017 05:45 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 214th post
BCDR
Moderator


Joined: Sat Oct 19th, 2013
Location: Reston, Virginia USA
Posts: 2547
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Kevin,

As Ron points out, patience is the key here. My technique is also to use dilute PVA (it is actually fine down to 10% PVA/90% water, by volume) to fix track and ballast. The only thing different is that I use thin sleepers where possible, so not so much ballast. Getting the glue soft enough for removing a section of track is best approached as a half-day or even overnight job.

Mask off the section to be removed after turning off the power and cutting the rails and sleeper webbing. Kitchen cling film or a piece of plastic sheet and masking tape are fine for this. Mist the track/ballast with water. Take some kitchen towel or shop towel (blue sort) and soak with water, place over track. Cover with cling film, plastic sheet (or aluminum foil) taped at the edges. Leave for a few hours or overnight. The PVA will be soft enough that a 1"-2"  flexible blade (polyfilla applicator type) will lift the track. At this point you will know why you painted the baseboard before laying track - it will come off a lot easier then when glued directly to wood. If you didn't you will need to let things dry out for another day or so. Never try and drill holes or remove wood when it's damp. When dry make the hole for the magnet.

Don't throw the removed section of track away. If you are not modifying the track plan it goes back where it came from. You paid more than a £1 a foot for it. It will look messy, dunk it in a bucket of hot water with some dishwasher liquid added for a few hours, then give it a good scrub with a stiff bristle brush (washing up type). Same goes for any turnouts you had to remove. Use the hair dryer to dry the track/turnout. You may have to add some dropper wires, although short sections can get away with rail joiners and solder.

For others reading this, if silicone sealant or similar was used soaking with water normally won't work. Brute force will, especially if the track was laid on a painted surface or cork/foam. Getting the track up will probably mean it's damaged beyond further use. If track was laid on a foam board the water method works fine if PVA was used. If one of the commercial foam board construction adhesives was used all bets are off. In that case cut the track, use a long blade cutter or fine hacksaw blade to remove the track/foam, replace with a new piece of foam and an appropriate adhesive. Use a thin piece of ply (1/8" thick from the model shop works well), glued to the underside with foam compatible CA to keep the new piece of foam and magnet in place while the foam adhesive sets.  Small pieces can be kept in place with masking tape.

It pays to think about track removal before you start laying it. That thick layer of neat PVA underneath and slightly diluted PVA used for ballasting will certainly keep it in place, but will involve more work and a lot more "oh dear, well I never" moments to get the track up. It also pays to have a track bed (1mm or 2mm cork or HD foam) between the rail and the baseboard. It's often easier to remove that along with the track and dunk it in the bucket to free the track.

"Bin there, dun that" on all the above.

Nigel



____________________
©Nigel C. Phillips
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Tue Aug 29th, 2017 09:01 pm
PMQuoteReply
link to this 215th post
Passed Driver
Full Member


Joined: Thu Feb 19th, 2015
Location: Peckham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2387
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Nigel.  Thank you for your reply. That is where l came in? Coming back to railway modelling as I did, after 40 odd years, back in 2015. After along time, it was like starting all over again, and I was in a rush as I had never used ballast before. I had heard of various ways to ballast and I went for the " soft option?" Had I made allowances for the Uncoupling magnets before I ballasted the track, then I wouldn't be in this position now. But that was the idea, to gain experience on a small scale, before advancing to a regular layout.    All the best. Kevin



____________________
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Aug 30th, 2017 02:47 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 216th post
Sol
A modelling Moderator.


Joined: Mon Nov 28th, 2011
Location: Evanston Gardens, South Aust, Australia
Posts: 3552
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Passed Driver wrote: Hi Ron.  Thank you for your reply. I agree with you but this was a test , and try as " one might?" It is a very clever man that can glue fifteen magnets in an orderly fashion in one go .   All the best. Kevin

Now I glued the middle row, waited 3-4 minutes for Super Glue to set  **** , added the small thinner card/balsa/plastic separator than keeps the magnet strips apart, glue the next one in- holding it with one hand while fitting another separator between that magnet strip and the adjoining normal flex track plastic sleeper so that this magnet strip does not try to turn to align north/south poles. Then in about 3-4 minutes, do the other side strip. I guess in total about 12-15 minutes.    **** I guess it also depends on the brand of Super Glue used - get a quick setting one.



____________________
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Aug 30th, 2017 09:45 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 217th post
Passed Driver
Full Member


Joined: Thu Feb 19th, 2015
Location: Peckham, United Kingdom
Posts: 2387
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

Hi Ron.  Thank you. With the Superglue do you buy/mean "High Viscosity "? I will have to try that myself.But what about the "spacers" do they ever get stuck?   All the best. Kevin



____________________
Staying on the thread Kevin.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

 Posted: Wed Aug 30th, 2017 10:10 am
PMQuoteReply
link to this 218th post
Sol
A modelling Moderator.


Joined: Mon Nov 28th, 2011
Location: Evanston Gardens, South Aust, Australia
Posts: 3552
Status: 
Offline

My photos:
view photos in Gallery
view photos as slides

I used cheap super glue and it works . The spacers are about 1.5mm thick & stay glued just with the little bit of glue that will spread out from under the magnet strip and once you paint the track & ballast, they vanish from sight.



____________________
Ron
NCE DCC ; 00 scale UK outline.
Back To Top PMQuoteReply

This is topic ID = 8481     Current time is 08:30 pm Page:  First Page Previous Page  ...  6  7  8  9  10  11     
You are here:  Your Model Railway Club > Getting You Started. > Layout Design, Trackwork & Operation. > Kadee magnetic uncoupling
You can type a quick reply to this topic here. Click in the box below to begin.

Or to reply to an individual post, or to include images, attachments and formatted text,
click the Quote or Reply buttons on each post above.

To start a new topic in this forum, click the Start New Topic button below.
To start a new topic in a different forum, click the Forum Jump drop-down list below.
Start New Topic


Back to top of page

           
15 Most Recent Topics

Problems with this web site? Please contact the Webmaster.

All material submitted to this web site is the responsibility of the respective contributor. By submitting material to this web site you acknowledge that you accept full responsibility for the material submitted.
Unless stated otherwise, all the material displayed on this web site, including all text, photographs, drawings and other images, is copyright and the property of the respective contributor. Registered members are welcome to use it for their own personal non-commercial modelmaking purposes. It must not be reproduced or re-published elsewhere in any form, or used commercially, without first obtaining the owner's express permission.
The owner of this web site may edit, modify or remove any content at any time without giving notice or reason.    © 2008

                 

Recent Topics Back to top of page

Powered by UltraBB 1.15 Copyright © 2007-2011 by Jim Hale and Data 1 Systems. Page design copyright © 2008-2013 Martin Wynne. Photo gallery copyright © 2009 David Williams.