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No.2 Coaling Plant - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Dec 26th, 2010 12:55 pm
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Wayne Williams
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We have all had that experience Perry, and I'm quite sure it's not over for anyone.

That is one reason I like this forum. I take pictures to post and while doing that I notice things that one cannot see on the model. Some I correct, and some I do not.

Those pesky ones that are not level, seem the worst though.

Wayne



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 Posted: Mon Dec 27th, 2010 12:50 pm
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Perry
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The joints and seams on the coaling lightly plant have been filled and sanded today and the whole thing now looks a lot tidier. I have also sanded all the flat surfaces to give the paint a better key.

I'm about to start work on building the jigger feeder control cabins. They are pretty straightforward box-like structures on legs abutting the short access platforms.

I still haven't permanently joined the top and bottom sections of the plant together because it is such a large model that it is easier to handle in two parts. I don't need to join them until I'm ready to install the wagon hoist and counterbalance rails.

I'm really enjoying seeing this model take shape.

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Dec 27th, 2010 01:17 pm
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phill
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Well just caught up on this and i must say its a brilliant model you did there mate, as always you are the master builder on this Forum.

Phill

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 Posted: Mon Dec 27th, 2010 02:27 pm
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Perry
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:oops::oops::oops::oops::oops:

Thanks, Phill. Glad you're enjoying it.

Perry



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 Posted: Wed Dec 29th, 2010 11:18 am
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Perry
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Here is a quick photo update showing progress so far:



The control cabins and their respective platforms have been fabricated and the upper and lower leg sections have all been covered with 0.040" plastikard. The two boxes at the lower front will form the counterweight receivers. The jigger drives are still not fixed in place. One or two areas that have been filled are still to be sanded down.

The counterweight supports and the truck hoist rails will be put in soon - probably after the handrails and steps have been fitted to the platforms. The gap between the two platforms will eventually hold part of the truck hoist mechanism.

There isn't much to see on the back of the structure at present. I still have to fit the many sections of stairways and handrails, but plan on using Plastruct components for most of these.

I've guestimated that track centres for the coaling and truck hoist roads will be approximately 100mm (4"), so although the whole thing looks enormous, it's 'footprint' isn't too bad.

Perry




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 Posted: Wed Dec 29th, 2010 11:24 am
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Sol
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That is a big structure & presumably a lot of weight too just on those 4 legs.

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 Posted: Wed Dec 29th, 2010 11:40 am
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Perry
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Sol wrote: That is a big structure & presumably a lot of weight too just on those 4 legs.
I'm guessing that the amount of reinforced concrete forming the structure itself was pretty heavy. :shock: According to the plans, each of the two hoppers held a maximum of 75 tons of coal. Each coal wagon used to fill them held between 8 and 20 tons - plus the weight of the wagon, so it must have been a pretty robust piece of kit to be able to lift enough of them each day to keep the hoppers topped up.

Fortunately, 0.040" Plastikard isn't too heavy!!!! :mutley

Perry



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 Posted: Fri Dec 31st, 2010 09:43 am
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Perry
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Apart from the odd detail or two to be added in the final stages, the two control cabins and their respective platforms have been completed.



The boxes at the front are the counterweight receivers. The gaps between the cabin and the handrails are where the assembly fits aound the main legs of the structure.

The access steps are made from Plastruct, part number STAS-4. The handrails were made by drilling 1mm holes in the decking and glueing in vertically some 10mm lengths of 1mm round microstrip.The hand rails were also made from the same material and were joined to the uprights by tiny amounts of tube polystyrene cement. Solvent is unsuitable for this task due to the tiny area of contact between the parts. It would leave the joint far too weak. At the top of the steps, the bend in the handrail was made 'cold' by gently tweaking the plastic rod to the required angle with a pair of tweezers (forceps). Bends any sharper than this would normally require the application of heat to prevent breakages.

Perry



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 Posted: Fri Dec 31st, 2010 09:58 am
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Stubby47
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Simple little structures, but done very well indeed.



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 Posted: Fri Dec 31st, 2010 10:21 am
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Perry
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I agree, they are just simple constructions, Stu, but there's still a surprising amount of work in them. I had to make about 90 separate parts in all. :shock: They were 'fiddly' rather than difficult.

Perry



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 Posted: Fri Dec 31st, 2010 10:26 am
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Stubby47
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I wasn't suggesting they were easy at all, but I wouldn't have guessed at 90 components each :???:!

I think what most impresses me is your ability to cut things square, so the sides all fit properly !



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 Posted: Fri Dec 31st, 2010 10:40 am
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Perry
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Stubby47 wrote: I wasn't suggesting they were easy at all, but I wouldn't have guessed at 90 components each :???:!

I think what most impresses me is your ability to cut things square, so the sides all fit properly !

Ninety components in total, Stu, - not in each one. Sorry if I misled you.

They were easy to build though. It's just a couple of boxes and platforms on legs.

Squareness and accuracy of things has improved with practice. Some of my early projects were really horrible by comparison. :oops:

Before I start to mark out a part, I check the material to make sure I'm measuring from 2 straight sides joined at a 90 degree angle. It doesn't matter about the other sides. I mark the right-angle corner so that I know which sides I'm working from. All cuts are made using a steel straight-edge and most measuring and marking out is done with a steel ruler, marked down to 0.5mm divisions, and a sharp knife. I discovered long ago that pencil lines are way too thick and inaccurate for small work. I know I've said this on the forum before, but if a part isn't right, I throw it in the 'bits box' and make another one. It saves time and temper in the long run.

Perry



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 Posted: Fri Dec 31st, 2010 11:21 am
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Wayne Williams
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Now those really look sharp Perry. Are you going to add windows and doors to them?

I know what you mean when you said "If a part isn't right throw it in the bit's box". I also know how difficult that can be a times, but it is the right decision. With all the time (and materials) that go into scratch building, don't settle for less than you are capable of.

Lesson well learned!

Wayne



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 Posted: Fri Dec 31st, 2010 11:31 am
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Perry
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Wayne Williams wrote: Now those really look sharp Perry. Are you going to add windows and doors to them?....

Wayne

I'm not planning to, Wayne. These cabins only housed the controls for the jigger drives and I doubt that there were many, or indeed any, 'home comforts'. Once they're covered in grime and coal dust, I think they'll look the part.

Perry



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 Posted: Fri Dec 31st, 2010 01:23 pm
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Perry
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I am now at the stage of needing to put some handrails around the ege of the main platform where the jigger drives are situated.

I considered drilling holes for the uprights directly into the deck but wasn't happy I could get them all close enough to perpendicular.

I therefore went for a bit of a compromise; a practical solution.

I am using 2mm x 1mm (0.080" x 0.040") microstrip, marked out to give the chosen upright spacings. These are drilled with a series of 1mm holes. The strip is then taped down onto a sheet of glass to hold it flat whilst the uprights, cut from 1mm plastic rod, are pushed into place. Pushing them down until they touch the glass ensures they all protrude by the same amount. A touch of solvent holds each one in place.

Another length of 1mm rod is then glued across the tops of the uprights with tube polystyrene cement. When this is partially set, any tiny lateral adjustments needed can be made.


The first photo shows the end units as built on the bench.




The second photo shows one of the units stood in place, but not fixed. The gap will house the access steps in due course.



Perry



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 Posted: Fri Dec 31st, 2010 05:11 pm
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owen69
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love them Perry, a joy to see them coming together, the bonus is learning too..
:doublethumb:lol::lol::cool:

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 Posted: Fri Dec 31st, 2010 05:18 pm
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phill
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I think the rails could be space a tad to the right more and the cabins to the left about half a mill :twisted: :mutley

 

Apart from that they look great mate :thumbs

Phill

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 Posted: Fri Dec 31st, 2010 07:04 pm
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That's very helpful, Perry.  I've got to make handrails which run the length of the NR.  Some useful tips there.  :thumbs



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 Posted: Sat Jan 1st, 2011 08:28 am
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Perry
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phill wrote: I think the rails could be space a tad to the right more and the cabins to the left about half a mill :twisted: :mutley

 

Apart from that they look great mate :thumbs

Phill

Modifications carried out as requested, Phill! :mutley

:cheers

Perry



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 Posted: Sat Jan 1st, 2011 08:57 am
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Perry
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I'm in the process of making several sets of handrails and thought it might be helpful to show a photo of the work in progress.

For these two sets, I cut two pieces of 2mm x 1mm microstrip, 236mm long, and taped them to a sheet of glass with masking tape. If you are working on glass for flatness, (which I recommend you do) it's essential to tape the bases down, otherwise they skid all over the place when you're working on them.

I worked out with a calculator what the spacing between the uprights was going to be and set a pair of spring dividers to the correct dimension. Starting from the centre of each base strip, I 'walked' the compasses out to the ends, being careful to prick the location of each upright as close to the centre-line of the strip as possible.

The base strips were then removed from the glass and laid on some scrap foamboard for drilling. This was carried out using a 1mm drill bit in a pin-vice. Care should be taken to keep the drill-bit as vertical as possible when drilling - it makes things a lot easier later on.

After all the holes were drilled, the burrs were lightly sanded off both sides of the strips. It might be necessary to just run the drill-bit through each hole again to clear them out completely.

Straighten the strips gently between the fingers if they have become bent out of shape, then tape them back down onto the glass.

I have the luxury of a 'chopper' to cut the uprights quickly and accurately, so I measured the required length and set a temporary stop on the chopper bed. I cut all the uprights required, plus a few spares, in one session.

It's then a quick and easy process to push an upright into each hole, pressing down gently until you feel it touch the glass.
They should be a snug fit.

When they are all in place, put a small amount of solvent around the base of each one with a brush. The solvent will soften the upright slightly, so you have a chance to tweak any that don't look absolutely vertical. Keep checking as the solvent goes off aa they sometimes move out of line when you're not looking!

Put the assemblies aside to set hard. When they're ready, put a small blob of tube polystyrene cement on the top of each upright with a cocktail stick or similar implement and lower the handrail into place. Tube cement will give you plenty of time for adjustment before it sets. I find it pays to wait a few seconds after applying the cement before putting the rail in place, because it becomes much 'tackier' and grips better initially.

Here are the two long sets under construction:



Perry




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