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Building The "Old Republic" In HO Scale - Scratchbuilding. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Thu Dec 9th, 2010 06:50 am
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Chubber
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That painting really demonstrates one of the advantages of this method of building, doesn't it? Watching with interest:thumbs

Doug



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 Posted: Thu Dec 9th, 2010 11:46 am
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Wayne Williams
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dooferdog wrote:
That painting really demonstrates one of the advantages of this method of building, doesn't it?


Yes it does Doug. The irony of it all is, I don't think I could have done it any other way. Painting those .020 strips neatly was just out of the question. Had the prototype been painted all one color it would have been a no brainer, bond them together and then just paint.


I have several more walls to make, all the same way, so if no one objects, I will refrain from posting the same process over and over again. So it may be a bit before I post again.

Wayne



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 Posted: Tue Dec 14th, 2010 06:24 pm
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Wayne Williams
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I have now completed the four main walls. The second picture shows them just leaning together in the assemble jig. Next up is probably the window glass because I won't be able to get inside and work on each window once the walls are together.
I need to go over to the train shop and get some more styrene inventory. This thing is eating up my stock! I have never built anything near this big before. The four layers in each wall is the culprit. The reason for that is the special windows.
Wayne







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 Posted: Tue Dec 14th, 2010 07:16 pm
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Also watching with interest, Wayne.  I found that there is a saving to be had by buying bigger sheets of styrene before the shop cuts them up.  Mind you a 4' x 4' sheet does take some getting into the car.  :shock:  I like the jig.  :thumbs 



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 Posted: Tue Dec 14th, 2010 08:51 pm
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Wayne Williams
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You know Max, I threw that jig together one day and it turned out to be the best thing I had ever done.

I really should put a little more thinking in it, now that I have used it so much. With some thought it would be absolutely indispensable.

It almost feels that way right now!

Wayne



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 Posted: Tue Dec 14th, 2010 09:42 pm
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Wayne Williams wrote: You know Max, I threw that jig together one day and it turned out to be the best thing I had ever done.

I really should put a little more thinking in it, now that I have used it so much. With some thought it would be absolutely indispensable.

It almost feels that way right now!

Wayne

It seems to be a fairly simple thing to make, but an excellent aid to assembling a building square.
Is it as simple as it looks, Wayne quest:quest:

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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2010 06:12 am
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Still watching Wayne this is a cracking thread on the use of plastic materials.:thumbs

 looking forward to your painting of the brickwork something i am currently experimenting with and not getting great results.

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Pete



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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2010 07:42 am
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Watching with interest, may not reply much but i am watching. A excellent build.

Phill

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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2010 07:53 am
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wogga wrote: Still watching Wayne this is a cracking thread on the use of plastic materials.:thumbs

 looking forward to your painting of the brickwork something i am currently experimenting with and not getting great results.

Regards

Pete


I confess this is one of the things that put me off using plastic,


Doug



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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2010 08:06 am
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I've built some in plastic, see my town in a box thread:-

:oops:  I can't find at the moment, but I found I had to scrub the plastic parts with vinegar and then dish washing liquid before the paint would stick to the plastic.



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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2010 11:32 am
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Wayne Williams
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Gwent Rail wrote:

It seems to be a fairly simple thing to make, but an excellent aid to assembling a building square.
Is it as simple as it looks, Wayne quest:quest:


It really is Jeff. I just placed two blocks of oak at 90 degrees to each other and left one stick over the edge, just to use as a handle. That's it!

I have some ideas on how to improve it (Generation ll?). The more I think about it the more I want to make another one.

Wayne



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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2010 11:35 am
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Wayne Williams
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wogga wrote:
 looking forward to your painting of the brickwork something i am currently experimenting with and not getting great results.


By all means keep watching Pete, but it may be awhile before I get to painting the brick. These windows are taking a lot longer than I thought, though I am very happy with the way they are turning out.

Wayne



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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2010 11:54 am
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My way is using Humbrol Acrylics:

Clean plastic of any releasing agent and sticky fingerprints.

Apply base colour for bricks.

When dry, make very watery solution of, say, light grey and paint on at top of model with large brush or finger, allowing to creep down into detail between bricks. Assist creep as necessary with plain water.

This will give a feeling of 'new build'.
Vary the watery mixture to provide worn whitewashed brickwork etc.,.

Use watery solution of dark grey, dark green etc., at bottom of walls and allow to creep upside down to represent old damp brickwork.

Other similar finishes to your taste.
If required, mask and spray with matt acrylic varnish.

Hope this helps.
Other methods may be available.



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 Posted: Wed Dec 15th, 2010 12:26 pm
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Found it:-

http://yourmodelrailway.net/view_topic.php?id=5518&forum_id=72&highlight=town+in+a+box

 



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 Posted: Tue Dec 21st, 2010 08:31 pm
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Wayne Williams
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The window mullions have been driving me crazy lately. I tried to use styrene strips but the smallest size that I had was .010 x .020 wide. This was just too large. That .020 width looked like a 2x4 in the window. I found some styrene strips from a company on the internet .010 square, ordered them and waited a week only to find out that they were back ordered with no foreseeable date for them to come in. So I sat down and came up with this idea. I asked Betty for some cotton thread and made this up. This is just a practice piece, so I used a piece of scrap material.
As you can see it turned out great. So now I have a way to make all of the mullions on the Old Republic.





This is just great, it's yellow cotton thread, so I don't even have to paint it. In this photo you can see the twist of the thread, but in reality as close as I can get to it with the naked eye, I can't see that twist. :Happy We all know how discerning the camera lens can be. I had it just three inches from the thread for this photo.

One thing I found from this practice piece is I need to make the opening for the window larger than I did for this. From extreme angles I can see in the window and see the white styrene that holds the thread. I had cut this size just 1/16" larger on each side than the opening for the window. Just not big enough, should have been 1/8".




Wayne

PS: And the thread is CHEAP!



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 Posted: Tue Dec 21st, 2010 10:19 pm
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A brilliant solution, Wayne.

Mike

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 Posted: Wed Dec 22nd, 2010 06:18 am
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Excellent.
How are you tautening and 'fixing' the thread, Wayne?



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 Posted: Wed Dec 22nd, 2010 11:35 am
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Wayne Williams
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ddolfelin wrote:
Excellent.
How are you tautening and 'fixing' the thread, Wayne?


I carefully calculated the proper spacing of the threads then drew a line on the styrene where the threads are located. I then take my hobby knife and cut in a slit on the outside edge on each line. Simply lay in the thread in that slit and tug to pull it in. Once a thread is in place I lay a drop of styrene solvent over the slit. At this point you have to pull on the thread at each end, to keep it taught while the solvent sets. Once that is done, trim off the excess thread on the back side.

My grand daughter has been carrying it around several times today, and the threads are still straight and taught. I doubt you can even pull them out at this point. Once the styrene melts around the thread it's there to stay.

Wayne



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 Posted: Wed Dec 22nd, 2010 02:10 pm
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Wayne, thats a novel solution! Well done with a good bit of lateral thinking!

 



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 Posted: Wed Dec 22nd, 2010 02:36 pm
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That's a very neat solution, Wayne.

I did wonder if you had thought of soaking the thread in PVA before or after mounting it? It should remove any 'fuzziness' and would also seal the thread, helping to hide the twist even further and enabling it to be painted if required.

Perry



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