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Northlight Engine Shed - Scalescenes Building Kits. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Mon Nov 8th, 2010 02:26 pm
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owen69
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can`t beat a bit of posing , loco`s that is !! two streaks and a duchess ? some pedigree.
it all looks really well .

:doublethumb:cool:

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 Posted: Mon Nov 8th, 2010 04:10 pm
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Perry
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The streaks, the Duchess, and the Class 47 are all over 30 years old, not converted to DCC, and are pretty knackered. They will probably only ever be used static around the layout, if at all. It would cost more than they are worth to bring them up to scratch, bearing in mind the quality of today's RTR locos. It would be better to replace them completely.

Still, as you say, you can't beat a bit of posing. :cool wink They've been useful for working out dimensions and clearances, etc. during the planning stage of various layouts.

All twenty internal exhaust vents have been painted and fitted in place:



I used a narrow strip of card as a spacer so that they are all the same distance from the internal roof edge. I marked the centre lines for each row on the strip, which made positioning them quick and straightforward.

Once they're dry, I'll attach the external ones.

Perry



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 03:21 am
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Marty
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Perry wrote:
Once they're dry, I'll attach the external ones.

Perry


'ere! 'ang on... lights!? We want to see the lights in first before the exterior chimbleys.... or do you have another cunning plan that I've missed? :thumbs

Thanks for the thoughts on the plasticard/card & paper mediums.

I'm leaning towards using card/2mm mdf/ply and printed paper for modelling items further away from the eye and plasticard for those prominent parts of the layout that need a little more attention to detail. But then, I'm only a beginner and the goal posts are constantly moving anyway.



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 07:51 am
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Perry
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To all intents and purposes, the main 'shell' of the shed is finished - apart from weathering. The twenty external exhaust vents were fitted last evening. I made up and used a card template to ensure that they were correctly positioned.





Now I have to think about sorting out the interior; letting the track into the foamboard floor, making the pillars and beams, etc, so there is still a fair bit to do. The lighting may not follow for some time, Marty.

Perry



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 09:43 am
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Super D
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Excellent work Perry - shown off to perfection with real locomotives  present.

Derek

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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 11:13 am
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Les
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Terrific stuff Perry; dont forget to varnish when weathered.:roll:

Les



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 11:14 am
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Marty wrote: Perry wrote:

Thanks for the thoughts on the plasticard/card & paper mediums.

I'm leaning towards using card/2mm mdf/ply and printed paper for modelling items further away from the eye and plasticard for those prominent parts of the layout that need a little more attention to detail. But then, I'm only a beginner and the goal posts are constantly moving anyway.


My first attempts at the carcass for my Ringwell Alarm Clock factory were in 3mm MDF, quickly abandoned after I ended up like Dusty Miller very quickly; I just could not face the idea of sitting at my hobby desk wearing a dust mask, so that was deffo out.

I tried some thin ply, it almost cut with a Stanley knife although the edges splintered etc..

Digging through my cupboard recently I found some ex-Lidl Acrylic and Oil painting board. I bought quite a bit as I was painting a lot at the time. [Peter Mac has one of my prints!] It's 2mm thick, made of a hard card inner and very stiff. One face is covered with a fine mock linen texture, the other with a smooth brown paper. It cuts with a small Stanley snap-off knife and comes in 400x300mm size and I shall be using some in my mill building.

I don't know if you have Lidl in Oz, Marty, but I expect you have discount craft/art shops where the same thing is available, and I'd suggest you look at some before you go down any other route. As its sold as a 'cheapy' alternative to proper canvas on frames, I wouldn't think it would cost too much.

Just a 'fawt'.

Doug

[apologies for the hijack]



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 11:22 am
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Perry
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Les wrote: Terrific stuff Perry; dont forget to varnish when weathered.:roll:

Les

Not being familiar with card modelling, can I varnish before weathering, and then again afterwards?

Perry



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 12:10 pm
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Les
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Oh! Er, hmmmmm... never done that so don't know I'm afraid.:???:    I guess Doofer is your man.

Les



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 01:59 pm
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This is what I use, about £3 a tin from Lidl. I use it on my walking boots, cagoul etc too!

I would lightly spray the inside with a light single coat of  large model like the shed, and a single light coat on the outside before weathering, especially if I do not happen to be using Epson Durabrite ink which is pretty forgiving and slightly water resistant so that I can wipe off any coc%-ups. Then I repeat after weathering, powdering etc. I mask the windows with post-it notes if I don't want a very slight misting effect on the glazing, however, for industrial buildings I think it actually adds to the 'grubby' look.

If I knew that the model would be subject to the effects of moisture from, say, ballasting, I would squirt some into the lid and apply by brush along the bottom edges.

When wrapping something complex where the texture paper must be folded and handled a lot, or where it must be indented to imitate textured spots, I spray the printed sheet before I start to use it.

As always, test an unseen patch of your own ink first!!!!




Hope that helps,


Doug



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 02:51 pm
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Perry
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It certainly does help, Doug. Thanks very much! :doublethumb

I spent a little while working on the shed floor this morning. I trimmed the 5mm foamboard to length, then drew the plan of the four roads in soft (4B) pencil onto the top surface. I cut right through the foamboard initially, removing pieces 19mm wide, leaving a 25mm strip across the 'back end' to hold it all together, and to make a walkway behind the buffers later on.

The foam board was then turned over and lines 6mm from the edge of each track slot marked out. These will allow room for the sleepers. I ran the knife gently along the marks, only cutting down far enough to leave the bottom face material intact. This will become the top face and butt against the rails when turned the right side up. Surprisingly, you can actually feel the tip of the knife blade run along the inside of the face material, and I didn't break through at all despite having to cut over 17 feet total distance like that. I then ran the knife point along the cut edges of the track slots to release the strip I had just cut. Once most of the 6mm strip had been peeled away by hand, I removed the remaining foam by scraping gently with a small screwdriver. The foam comes off quite cleanly like this.

I put the floor cut-out down onto the baseboard and laid some old pieces of scrap track in the slots before putting the shed back over it. Bear in mind that these are mangled old pieces of scrap track with bits of wire and solder, etc, attached to them and they are not the full length of the shed.



The join between the two pieces of foamboard can be seen about halfway down the shed. This join will not be visible when the floor is finished because the foamboard will be stuck down so that it's all level and a paper facing will be applied.

You may just be able to see the centre line I drew between the two middle roads. This was the initial marking out line that I drew and all measurements for the position of the tracks was taken from this datum. It also marks the position of the row of pillars that I have yet to make.

Perry



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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 03:04 pm
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ElDavo
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That's going to be one very impressive shed. Would it be worth laying the track on a strip of thin card to raise the rail head a smidgeon above the foam board floor? Might make it easier to clean the rail without damaging the floor.

Cheers
Dave

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 Posted: Tue Nov 9th, 2010 03:11 pm
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Perry
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ElDavo wrote: That's going to be one very impressive shed. Would it be worth laying the track on a strip of thin card to raise the rail head a smidgeon above the foam board floor? Might make it easier to clean the rail without damaging the floor.

Cheers
Dave

Good idea, Dave. I'll see what it looks like when the foamboard is pressed right down onto the surface of the baseboard. It's laying pretty loosely in the photo. You're certainly right about it making track cleaning easier though. I suppose I could have done with 4mm foamboard really! :roll: The manufacturers obviously didn't think about the needs of loco shed modellers when they designed their product. :thumbs A lack of foresight, that's all it is. :mutley

Perry

P.S. I've just tried this with a strip of 1mm card and it makes all the difference. Spot on! Excellent idea. Thanks Dave. :Happy



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 Posted: Sun Nov 14th, 2010 12:08 pm
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Perry
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Work is underway fabricating the supporting pillars. I decided not to use the card ones provided in the kit for reasons of strength and possibility of damage as illustrated by Les's post further up this thread.

I had some 6mm square stripwood 'in stock' so I cut off a number of 70mm lengths to form the bodies of the pillars. I also cut strips of 1mm card which were 9mm wide and 72mm long.

The idea is that I can construct 'H' beam pillars that will slot into holes cut in the floor at one end, and receive a longitudinal beam in the other.

The photo show the relevant parts and a mock-up of the floor and top beam arrangement:




With a coat of suitably 'mucky' paint, they should look the part.

Perry




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 Posted: Tue Feb 1st, 2011 05:41 pm
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shunter1
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:hiPerry, Did you get to finish all the pillar supports and weather the big building?

regards,

Derek

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 Posted: Tue Feb 1st, 2011 05:57 pm
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Perry
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All the pillar supports are in place, as is the flooring. I haven't yet weathered the building as I have a few more things to do first - including spraying with matt varnish to seal it.

The raw edges of the foamboard flooring need colouring before I do much more. I'l probably give them a quick blow over with some acrylic paint in the airbrush. Only the first few inches of floor and track are visible from the end of the shed, so I don't need to be too fussy with it.

It's still on my 'To Do' list, along with several other jobs. I'l post another photo or two when there's something to see.

Perry




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 Posted: Wed Feb 2nd, 2011 05:58 am
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Black5
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Looking good.

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 Posted: Thu Feb 3rd, 2011 12:17 pm
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Perry
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Having tested some aerosol varnish on a scrap window and piece of printed brickwork this morning, I masked all the shed windows with card or paper - all fifty of them - in preparation for spraying. There are forty on the roof and ten along one main wall :shock:.

I then sprayed the whole of the outside of the building with matt varnish. I wanted the outside surface of the windows to remain reasonably reflective, which they obviously wouldn't if they were coated with the varnish. Some areas of them may get a dusting of grime from the airbrush later, but not over the whole lot.

Once the varnish has dried, I'll spray the inside as well, although the inside of the windows won't need to be masked off. It won't matter if they pick up a grimy appearance, because they would have done so anyway when the shed was full of smoke and steam.

The separate floor will also get a coat of varnish and some painting before re-assembly.

I'll have to paint the rails on the four shed roads before fixing the track in place because once the flooring and strips between the rails are fixed in place, painting would be very difficult, if not impossible. It's another example of needing to pre-plan a job to ensure things are done in the right order. :thumbs

Perry



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 Posted: Thu Feb 3rd, 2011 04:39 pm
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:doublethumbNice one Perry, Its all coming together! That massive shed will be a main attraction on your MPD.Also I like your foreman/ roster desk on another thread.

Goodluck with the shed finish.

Derek

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 Posted: Thu Feb 3rd, 2011 05:06 pm
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Perry
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Thanks, Derek.

All being well - and the varnish being thoroughly dry - I'll try to get the floor sorted out and painted tomorrow. I've got a pair of Peco water cranes to go on the apron, but they look as though they need a bit of work to bring them up to scratch.

Still plenty to do! :thumbs

Perry



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