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Northlight Engine Shed - Scalescenes Building Kits. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 04:59 pm
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Perry
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Cheers, Reg. :cheers

I did come up with a plan to support the roof on some 6mm square strips of wood but it would have meant notching each of the roof unit front walls to fit over them. I don't think the resulting structure would have been rigid enough to allow lifting on and off too many times with damage occurring.

I have therefore decided to do pretty much what you suggest; making the whole building lift off of the base. That presents a few more problems though, such as arranging connectors for any lighting I may decide to install. I'm thinking along the lines of installing a few LED's in strategic locations, but I really haven't given it that much thought yet. Certainly a couple of nice big yard lamps just outside the shed are a must. I'm going to another exhibition soon and will see what I can find there.

Another thing to puzzle over is whether to fix the interior supporting columns to the roof or to the floor. Obviously I can't fix them at both ends.:hmm I'm also considering fitting some internal roof braces made from plastic strip, on the suppostion that I can use them to hold the lights in place.

I'll press on and get the shell finished before I sit back and take a long, hard look at the options before I do much more. As you rightly said, you 'know what I'm like'! :roll::lol:

I'm really enjoying this build, particularly as I'm using an 'alien' material for a change.

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 05:04 pm
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sparky
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Looking forward to seeing the next phase of the work.  Don't keep us in suspenders too long Perry.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 05:07 pm
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Chubber
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Interesting!!

I'm also considering fitting some internal roof braces made from plastic strip, on the suppostion that I can use them to hold the lights in place.

If you used channel section you could thread cabling through it to save any chance of adangly thing appearing....:shock:


Doug



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 05:12 pm
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Chubber
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Belay that!  Rush of sh!t to the brain....... [Naval parlance for 'An Idea!']...re the centre row of pillars, make 'em hollow, fix 'em to the deck and run an appropriate supportive channel strip between them to which you could fasten your deck-head lights...


Brainioso Doofo



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 06:33 pm
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Stubby47
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My concern with a building this size is when moving it, it might be prone to twisting.
Doof's idea is a good one, but would leave even less internal structure to brace the shell.
Stu



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 06:47 pm
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wogga
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Perry wrote:

I won't get much more done today as I have to go and scare the cr*p out of the local kids at a Halloween event in our local woodland. Time to get even with the little.......darlings! :twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted:

Perry


If cutting out all those windows wasn,t punishment enough!

It 's looking superb Perry a monster.



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 07:37 pm
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Chubber
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Stubby47 wrote: My concern with a building this size is when moving it, it might be prone to twisting.
Doof's idea is a good one, but would leave even less internal structure to brace the shell.
Stu


I think that number of accurately made rigid 'lights' securly glued to the side walls would act like the ultimate corrugated card board structure, with the strength of triangulation.

Doug



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 08:39 pm
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Perry
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That's one of things I like so much about this forum; just drop in a possible idea and immediately one is deluged with brilliant solutions. Thanks everyone! :doublethumb

All I have to do is sit back, pick the solution I like best and build it. Simple(s). ;-) I get to do the easy bits - as usual. :brickwall

OK. How about this one then? I have ten bays and four roads. How many supporting pillars will I need? I'm guessing three rows of ten, one row between each pair of roads. Thirty pillars in all. Does this sound about right, or can I get away with less? It's going to look like a gory forest in that lot!

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 09:10 pm
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Stubby47
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You could have just substantial posts down the centre.
Given that the roof would be as light as possible, each section may only have needed in the middle of each span. Each post might have needed tying together at the top, so an rsj running the length of the shed, fixed above each of the central pillars.

This may also help with manual access to dead locos and for track cleaning.

Stu



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 09:21 pm
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Chubber
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I've a copy of 'GWR at Swindon' somewhere [cellar/loft?] the errecting shed must be of comparable width, or more. I don't recall dozens of supporting pillars there, I'll find the book and have a look-see.

Doug



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 Posted: Sun Oct 31st, 2010 09:40 pm
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sparky
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I have a similar situation on a couple of buildings ,i chose to run the lighting wiring down the walls behind a partition and drilled through the floor,(baseboard) . it means disconnecting a pair from a choc block down below (for Doof)  if i need to lift the building, but how often is that.



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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 10:56 am
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shunter1
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Hi Perry, Looking through various photo,s of northlight sheds some being reroofed it looks like the pillar,s were spaced at about 35-40 ft intervals a bit of a guess because one can only judge the length by locos parked along side them, They do all seem to have 2 roads between rows of pillars.
Hope that helps?
Derek

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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 02:35 pm
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Perry
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Thanks again for all the helpful responses.

It seems like I will be able to go along with what Derek says; have a row of pillars down the centre, leaving two roads either side. That will look better and improve access. An RSJ down the length of the shed would provide sufficient support over the pillars.

Now another question - well, there had to be, didn't there? If I decide to install interior lighting, what colour does the lighting need to be? LED's are available in white, bright white, yellow, etc, etc. I'm thinking that bright white may be too overpowering, so the choice is between 'ordinary' white and yellow. Bearing in mind I am trying to create a rather gloomy atmosphere on the layout, I'm thinking yellow might be the way to go. I don't want the shed lights to light up the whole area of the layout. Your opinions would be greatly valued.

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 03:30 pm
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wogga
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Perry isn't there a nice golden glow LED? i understand its to give a nice effect?

Pete



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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 03:41 pm
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Dukedog
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Personally I don't like LEDs for layout lighting at all. The light is too cold, Most people go for Yellow LEDs as well which is most unrealistic unless you are trying to emulate modern day sodium lamps.
Even old gas lights were not yellow as some would make you believe, gas mantles when lit were incandescent white!

I find good old grain of wheat filament bulbs much better, a little too bright on 12V so I usually wire 2 in series giving 6V across each bulb. Alternatively use a separate 9V power supply.

Cheers!

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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 04:07 pm
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Perry
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I will be needing to arrange some inset trackwork for my loco shed. I have had several helpful suggestions as to the best way to achieve this effect elsewhere on this forum.

However, I was fiddling about with some offcuts of 5mm foam board today and happened to notice that is about the same 'thickness' as Peco Code 100 track.

I sliced off one side and the foam layer, leaving the other side layer intact:



I flipped it over and found that it is a pretty good match for height:



Obviously with a bit more care in cutting out the recess to cover the sleepers and moulded chairs, this could form the basis of the shed floor. A strip of some appropriate thickness card could be used to form the raised area between the rails to match up.

I'm also considering cutting recesses into the foamboard to receive the bases of the roof supporting pillars.

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 06:11 pm
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shunter1
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Thats a great idea Perry and without the mess of using filler.
You could use white or very light yellow LED,s in the machine shop area of the mpd, welding and such would be going on, probably mostly gas welding although arc welding would have been used in the 1940,s onwards, and lathes and other machine tools would need good lighting.
cheers,Derek

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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 06:34 pm
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sparky
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Perry i use white L E D 'S and colour those with a very watered down acrilic .in a workshop a blue/ish tint in ,offices a watered down flesh colour . If you try this ,let the paint dry before testing to see the result. it is easy to scrape the paint off again if thats not to your likeing. 



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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 07:01 pm
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owen69
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you can get warm white L.E.D`s now, they are very close to normal incandescent lights,
I use them for lighting carriages, or also warm yellow are not to bad.

:lol::cool:

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 Posted: Mon Nov 1st, 2010 07:35 pm
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Perry
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shunter1 wrote: Thats a great idea Perry and without the mess of using filler.
You could use white or very light yellow LED,s in the machine shop area of the mpd, welding and such would be going on, probably mostly gas welding although arc welding would have been used in the 1940,s onwards, and lathes and other machine tools would need good lighting.
cheers,Derek

The layout plans actually include a separate repair shed facility where I shall install my arc welding simulator unit. :thumbs

Perry



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