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Northlight Engine Shed - Scalescenes Building Kits. - More Practical Help - Your Model Railway Club
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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 11:01 am
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Chubber
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Perry wrote:

I cut and glued up 21 pairs of internal buttress base layers  :shock: for the the shed last night before adjourning to watch X Factor on TV, so I plan on gluing the wraps on them today. They should be fully dry by tomorrow so that they can be added to the wall assemblies.

Perry


Hi, Perry,

Great to see some card modelling going on. Re the buttresses, I have gone down the wooden path several times now, chimneys etc and feel that when I come to a model like this, especially one with a lot of repetitious layering of 2mm stuff I shall use wood. I'm lucky in having a planer thicknesser but wooden mouldings are available in all sorts of thickness's too.


Good modelling so far, looking forward to the rest of this thread.

I have found that Epson inks can discolour with some acrylic varnishes, but a light spray of Lidl W5 water-proofer as soon as the sheets come out of the printer makes them far more resilient to smudging etc and seems to give crisper folds.

Doug



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 11:22 am
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Perry
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Funny you should say that! As I sat here with glue brush in hand, it did occur to me that wood of suitable thickness might be quicker. I'll bear it in mind for future builds. It's strange really; if you look at old books and magazines, stripwood is often quoted as a material for use in modelling buildings. It seems that we have strayed down the modern materials path at the expense of incorporating some of the old ones.

I'm going to risk stating something pretty obvious now, but I'm aware that there are new modellers joining this forum all the time:

When I glue up, be it card with PVA or plastikard with solvent, I work on a sheet of glass. It's benefits are, 1: It's flat. 2: Most glue doesn't stick to it, and 3: it's very easily cleaned of old glue and other residue. I use an old Stanley knife blade as a scraper.

I'm about half way through putting the wrappers on the buttresses now, so I had better get on with it..... :pedal

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 12:03 pm
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Chubber
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When I glue up, be it card with PVA or plastikard with solvent, I work on a sheet of glass. It's benefits are, 1: It's flat. 2: Most glue doesn't stick to it, and 3: it's very easily cleaned of old glue and other residue. I use an old Stanley knife blade as a scraper.

Bu%%er, why didn't I think of that?  It is a recurring problem with me and I keep an old cutting mat for the job, but will look out for a piece of glass...dreckly!

Doug



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 12:17 pm
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Chubber
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John Ahern new the value of wood in modelling...

















Copyright CV Russell and E Fells  
Reproduced with their kind permissions.




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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 12:40 pm
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Perry
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I was concerned that glueing up 3 sections of wall end to end, held only by the internal and external buttresses, would not be strong enough. The standard wall section is 4 window bays long. I wanted 10 bays overall. I arranged the wall sections so that the exterior laminate was, in window bays, 4-4-2 and the internal laminate was 2-4-4.

The 2 bay overlap gives ample room for glueing up.

This drawing gives some idea of how it works out. The example only has 6 bays, but it is simple to insert another section of 4 bays in each one, ensuring that the 2 bay units remain at opposing ends:



Perry




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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 01:02 pm
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Chubber
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I'm sure that you could include a length of 6-8mm square wood in the length if you are still concerned about rigidity etc..

My old school R'Way club used to collect up all the old rocket sticks on November 6th for the job!

Doug



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 01:10 pm
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Perry
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With the overlap, the double lamination and the buttresses, I think I could almost sit on it without it bending. :hmm

I have been known to collect a few rocket sticks myself in the past, but these days the quality isn't so good.

I've just glued about half of the internal buttresses to the wall assemblies. They are now in the clamp to set nice and hard.

Perry



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 Posted: Sun Oct 24th, 2010 01:38 pm
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shunter1
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Coming on nicely Perry, Ah the old glass still have an old sheet I used years ago, Great too see someone still useing it.
I have a friend locally who is a glazier,So I can scrounge odd squares of good thick plate glass,less delicate than the old thin stuff, Maybe Doug can find a local glazier who will be kind enough to give him an offcut.
Good reminder Doug about using wood with card gives it real strength!
I am delighted with this thread Perry as I have a major MPD to build on my new attempt at a layout, LMS of course.
regards to you both,
Derek

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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 10:16 am
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Perry
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Both side wall have been completed, inside and out, this morning. Twelve wall units, ten windows, forty-four double thickness buttresses, twenty plinths, and twenty ledges making a total of 150 parts to cut out - not counting the brick paper 'wraps' - and I haven't even started on the end walls or roof!



Make no mistake, there is a lot of work in one of these projects. You're not going to knock one together in a couple of hours like you can a Superquick-type kit - which is why they're called Superquick, of course - but take your time, take care and work accurately and it's not difficult. If you can glue two pieces of card together, you can build one of these Scalescene products.

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 12:58 pm
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Michael Thornberry
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Hello Perry,
Looking very good, mate. Are you sure it's not GWR because it looks a lot like the building at "Long Rock" between Marazion and Penzance :lol: I was "forced into saying that", 'onest hi waz,
Kind Regards,
Michael Thornberry.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 01:03 pm
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Perry
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Dunno. I've never ventured into that part of the world. :roll: It looks a bit LNER/LMS to me! :twisted:

I've just realised that I now need to build 20 roof assemblies! :shock: :shock: :shock: Ah well, chop down another rain-forest....

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 01:34 pm
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wogga
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You do the kit justice Perry that is definately LMS mate there ain't no signs of pasties or clay pipes for it to be GWR! Hows the cutting hand holding up?



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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 01:49 pm
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Perry
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wogga wrote: You do the kit justice Perry that is definately LMS mate there ain't no signs of pasties or clay pipes for it to be GWR! Hows the cutting hand holding up?
:mutley:mutley:mutley
My hands are pretty uncomfortable today unfortunately. The way I look at it is this; if I don't persist and force my hands to do stuff that is uncomfortable, they may seize up even quicker. It's only pain. Perhaps I need a large Scotch......:hmm

On second thoughts, messing about with very sharp knives when you're half p...... well, perhaps not! :cheers

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 01:51 pm
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phill
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I think it is looking very good Perry. I have to say thou Geoff has to look at this cause its deffoe looking like GWR mate, honest it really do's :mutley

Phill

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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 03:12 pm
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phill wrote: I think it is looking very good Perry. I have to say thou Geoff has to look at this cause its deffoe looking like GWR mate, honest it really do's :mutley

Phill


:lol: Dont mind Phil Perry Thats a typical LNWR-LMS Shed, Gods Wonderfull could not keep the Premier line out of Wales and other Western area,s :mutleyIts coming on a treat, Keep the hands warm Perry, cuts down on attacks from the pain screws.This time of the year the old fingerless gloves come out in my place, Damn arthritis can be a pain.

Happy modeling

Derek

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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 04:08 pm
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Michael Thornberry
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Hello Perry,
In respect of Whisky the proportions should be as follows:- 2 Measures for External Joint Manipulation and 5 Measures for Internal Lubrication. The External application makes you smell good-enough to drink:twisted: and the Internal application helps you forget just how bad you actually are. :lol: Repeat the prescription when the External smell dissipates. It should only hurt if you swallow too much at once,:thud:thud
Kind Regards,
Michael Thornberry.

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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 04:25 pm
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Chubber
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shunter1 wrote: .This time of the year the old fingerless gloves come out in my place, Damn arthritis can be a pain.

Happy modeling

Derek


Yup, the 'Steptoes' come out here at this time of year, at least until the gardening tools have reached hand temperature, and the evening dose of one Ibruprofen tablet [but only after a little bit of supper]

Doug



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"Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy" - Benjamin Franklin

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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 05:19 pm
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Perry
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:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley:mutley

Perry



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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 06:17 pm
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Petermac
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It's looking very smart Perry.  Right up there with your plasticard modelling standard and don't forget - trees re-grow !!!!

Not too sure about printer inks..........:roll::roll::roll:



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 Posted: Mon Oct 25th, 2010 06:23 pm
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Chubber
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Well, I had to try some 3mm foam board. If you were not getting along too well with it, there has to be a reason, so I tried a DIY flat warehouse jobby [in 'asbestos' monthly project section]. I found it would not take being rolled with a seam roller to give sharp corners, a major disadvantage in my mind and cuts that were not perfectly square couldn't be sanded right without little lumps of inner foam being pulled out.

I discovered when I came to roll the paper around the top roof line and round the inside of the door cut-out it wasn't very willing to stay stuck until I had let the first application of PVA dry and hence 'prime' the cut surface.

It clearly is a promising material and there has been some nice work shown here using it, but I shall go back to card quite happily.

Given the necessity for squareness and resilience, I think you 'deffo' have made the right choice by starting again in card.


Doug



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